CampbelFs 

I'ea^  Coffee   and 

Spice  Manual 


UC-NRLF 


$B    EbO    577 


Published  by 
Lute  E.  Campbell 


GIFT  OF 


Digitized  by  tine  Internet  Arciiive 

in  2007  witin  funding  from 

IVJicrosQft  Corporation 


littp://www.arcliive.org/details/campbellsteacoffOOcampricli 


CampbelFs 

Tea,  Coffee  and 

Spice  Manual 


A  Comprehensive  Trade  Manual 


on 


Teas,  Coffees  and  Spices 


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Published  by 
Lute  E.  Campbell 

316  W.  Second  St. 
Los  Angeles,  California 


Compiled 

and 

Published  by 

LUTE  E.  CAMPBELL 

For  the  information  and 
protection  of  Merchants 

and 

Dedicated  to  those  interested 


I.    <  •   • 


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*     •   *  *  i    i    •  •      •    -  •  •         ♦      •  • 


•   ^  *'        <•#'• 


Oopyri&M   1920 

by 

LUTE  E.  CAMPBHIiL 


The  writer  does  not  challenge  Criticism,  but 
honestly  courts  it.  If,  in  the  perusal  of  this  /work, 
you  find  an  error,  or  an  article,  which,  in  your 
judgment,  is  incorrect,  or  incomplete,  and  you  have 
more  authentic  *'data"  at  hand,  please  forward 
same  to  the  author. 

He  will  at  all  times  be  glad  to  receive  honest 
criticism,  reliable  information,  opinions  and  sug- 
gestions from  those  interested  in  and  acquainted 
with  the  subjects'  herein  treated. 

Any  special  informatipn  cheerfully  furnished  for 
the  asking,  if  oibtainable. 


THE  AUTHOR. 


O 


429040 


AN'AUBI      ,, .,  ^    . 

The  writer  first  turned  m's  Vtterition  'towkrd' 
Teas  and  Coffees  in  the  early  eighties,  when  the 
public  knew  scarcely  any  other  than  China  and 
Japan  Teas,  and  at  which  time,  and  for  many  years 
thereafter,  the  same  unsuspecting  public  were  buy- 
ing principally  Mocha  and  Java  Coffee,  and  drink- 
ing principally  Rio,  together  with  some  Central 
American  Coffees. 

In  the  course  of  time  he  graduated  from  a  whole- 
sale grocery  salesman  to  a  Tea  and  Coffee  spe- 
cialty salesman,  thence  to  a  Tea  and  Coffee  spe- 
cialist (so-called),  thence  to  a  blender  of  Coffees, 
with  accumulated  experience  as  a  roaster — at  the 
same  time  a  blender  of  Teas,  with  a  reasonable 
degree  of  success,  and  finally  to  a  buyer  and 
blender  of  both  Teas  and  Coffees  for  Wholesale 
Grocers,  Tea  and  Coffee  Houses  and  Wholesale 
Roasters,  and  is  at  this  time  acting  in  the  capacity 
of  buyer  and  blender  of  Teas  and  Coffees  for  one 
of  the  largest  and  most  prominent  Wholesale  Gro- 
cers and  Coffee  Roasters  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 
While  he  has  never  had  the  temerity  to  call  him- 
self an  expert,  he  has,  during  these  many  years, 
accumulated  a  considerable  fund  of  knowledge  and 
experience,  and  knowing  from  the  latter  just  how 
hard  it  is  to  acquire  the  former,  he  has  compiled 
the  following  for  those  interested  in  Teas,  Coffees, 
Spices,  etc. 

The  data  herein  contained  is  the  result  of  years 
of  study,  research  and  experience,  and  the  writer's 
thorough  personal  acquaintance  with  the  Tea  and 
Coffee  shrubs  and  their  cultivation,  culture,  growth, 
harvesting,  etc.,  both  in  the  Gardens  and  upon  the 
plantation.  The  condensed  papers  (prepared  in 
many  instances  especially  for  the  writer  and  this 
work)  from  Tea,  Coffee  and  Spice  Buyers,  Brokers 
and  salesmen  from  China,  Japan,  Java,  Ceylon  and 
India,  on  Teas,  and  South  and  Central  America  and 


Jklexicpv  .on  Coffees, ,  fron?'  clippings  from  various 
,l^ii(;rii>3$kl^,  Pn^yciop^dias ,  and  various  sources  of 
authority,  as  well  as  Government  reports  and  Bul- 
letins, and  will  not  only  be  found  to  be  more  than 
brdinarily  authentic  and  reliable,  but  should  he  of 
incalculable  help  and  value  to  all  desiring  infor- 
mation on  the  subjects  treated. 

The  writer  also  wishes  to  refer  to  Coffee  papers 
by  such  old  and,  prominent  writers  as  Mr.  W.  P. 
Hiern,  Prof.  A.  H.  Church,  Mr.  Preston,  and  Mr. 
Ellis;  to  Tea  papers  by  Mr.  J.  L.  Shand,  of  Ceylon; 
Hellyer  &  Co.,  Chicago;  J.  C.  Whitney  &  Co.,  New 
York;  Carter^Macy  Co.,  New  York;  also  P.  L.  Sim- 
monds'  F.  L.  S.,  F.  R.  C.  I.,  works  published  in  Lon- 
don on  Teas,  Coffees,  Seeds  and  Spices;  also  to 
Fluokiger  ,&  Hanbury's  "History  of  the  Principal 
Drugs";  to  Mr.  James  McPherson's  article  on  Tea 
in  the  Journal  of  the  Society  of  Arts,  and  to  Mr. 
J.  Miers*  paper  on  "Mat6"  in  the  "Transactions  of 
the  Linnean  (Society,  1861",  in  "Annals  and  Maga- 
zine of  Natural  History." 

Extracts  from  the  above  authorities,  segregated 
and  arranged  by  the  author  for  the  information, 
convenience  and(  protection  of  brokers,  mercliants 
and  salesmen. 

Also  general  information  and  expressions  through 
and  from  intimate  acquaintance  with  the  Tea  and 
Coffee  Trade  Journal,  79  Wall  Street,  New  York, 
and  the  Simmons  Spice  Mill,  79  Water  Street,  New 
York. 

The  leading  Tea,  Coffee  and  Spice  Journals  in 
the  United  States  and,  in  the  writer's  opinion,  the 
most  reliable  authority  in  the  world. 

Emphatically  emphasized  points  throughout  this 
work  are  points  that  should  be  especially  remem- 
bered, for  in  most  instances  they  will  not  only  be 
the  particular  subject  in  hand,  but  will  be  among 
the  information  most  desired. 


AMERICA'S   FOREIGN   COFFEE  TRADING 

The  foreign  Coffee  trade  of  the  United  States, 
according  to  statistics  prepared  by  the  Bureau  of 
Foreign  and  Domestic  Commerce,  approximated 
normal,  with  high  record  shipments  and  increased 
average  prices  during  the  fiscal  year  1919.  Re- 
ceipts exceeded  those  of  the  "peace"  year  1914 
hy  only  4.5  per  cent  and  were  8.2  per  cent  below 
those  of  1918,  the  last  full  ;  ear  of  the  war.  Ship- 
ments (that  is,  exports  and  re-exports  to  foreign 
countries  and  sales  to  non-contiguous  territories 
of  the  United  States),  on  the  other  hand,  were 
87.4  per  cent  greater  in  quantity  and  116.4  per 
cent  greater  in  value  than  in  1914,  and  also  sur- 
passed, in  both  quantity  and  value,  those  of  1918. 

The  average  price  of  the  coffee  received  in  1919 
was  13.7  cents  a  pound,  contrasted  with  9  cents 
in  1918,  and  a  shade  over  11  cents  in  1914;  and  the 
average  price  of  the  coffee  (both  domestic  and 
foreign)  shipped  was  18.6  cents  compared  with  13 
cents  in  1918  and  16.1  cents  in  1914.  As  regards 
domestic  raw  coffee  alone,  the  average  export 
price  was  19.5  cents  in  1919,  14.5  cents  in  1918,  and 
16.2  cents  in  1914. 

The  United  States  has  long  been  the  largest 
Coffee  consuming  country  in  the  world  in  the 
aggregate,  though  not  per  capita,  but  with  the 
advent  of  nation-wide  prohibition,  an  increase  in 
the  per  capita  consumption  is  expected,  with  the 
once  popular  "coffee  house"  of  England  to  supplant 
the  "bar." 


COFFEE   HISTORY 

The  early  history  of  Coffee  is  only  to  be  gleaned 
from  mythology,  at  least  to  a  great  extent.  It  is 
claimed  by  many  to  have  been  native  to  Abyssinia 
and  Ethiopia;  however,  the  concensus  of  opinion 
seems  to  be  that  the  civilized  world  is  indebted  to 
Africa  for  the  Coffee  Bean. 

9 


Its  early  history  is  clouded  in  tradition,  but  it 
appears  to  have  been  known  by  the  Ethiopians  of 
Northern   Africa   from   time  immemorial.     It  was 
not,  however,  used  in  the  form  of  a  beverage,  but 
was  toasted,  or  roasted,  crushed  and  mixed  with 
animal  fats  and  rolled  into  balls  about  the  size  of 
a  billiard  ball.     These  were  used  as  food:  one  of 
them,  it  is  said,  being  capable  of  sustaining  a  man 
for  a  day.     It  was  preferred  by  these  people  to 
either  meat  or  bread,  as   it  cheered  as  well  as 
sustained.     Its  use  reached  Abyssinia  toward  the 
end  of  the  thirteenth  century,  and  traveled  about 
two  hundred  years  later  into  Arabia.    It  is  claimed 
that  Coffee  was  first  introduced  into  Arabia  in  the 
year  875  A.  D.,  but  it  did  not  come  into  popular 
favor  until  the  discovery  of  its  excellence  as  a 
beverage  in  the  first  part  of  the  fifteenth  century. 
This  discovery  from  the  mythological  accounts 
we  have  of  it,  was  purely  accidental.     It  is  said 
that  a  certain  ruler  of  some  Dervishes  had  a  flock 
of  goats,  and  that  he  had  noticed  their  antics  after 
feasting  on  the  berries  from  the  Coffee  tree.    Now, 
this  ruler  had  been  greatly  annoyed  by  the  ten- 
dency of  his  Dervishesi  to  "sleep  in  church",  even 
at  this  early  date,  and  he  was  led  to  believe  that 
if  he  could  in  some  way  induce  them  to  eat  a  few 
beans  off  this  aformentioned  bush,  that  they  would 
stay    awake    during    service,    be    interested    and 
happy.    How  was  he  to  get  them  to  partake  of  this 
little  berry?    Ah!   an  infusion  of  it  would  shroud 
its  origin  in  the  necessary  cloak  of  mystery.     It 
worked  like  a  charm  and(  was  soon  the  hit  of  the 
hour,  to  such  an  extent,  in  fact,  that  it  fell  under 
the  ban  of  the  church,  and  was  expressly  forbidden 
in  the  Koran,  buti  without  avail — ^Coffee  had  come 
to  stay. 

The  Arabs,  however,  guarded  their  secret  jeal- 
ously, and  it  was  almost  a  hundred  years  before 
it  was  introduced  into  Turkey.  Arabia  seems  to 
have  been  the  stepping-stone  for  the  universal 
consumption  of  Coffee,  and  it  was  Arabian  Coffee 

10 


shipped  through  the  port  of  Mocha  that  shed  a 
halo  around  the  name  "Mocha"  and  led  the  Coffee 
world  Into  using  It  as  a  panoply  for  millions  cfi 
tons  that  never  saw  Arabia.  In  those  days  Ara- 
bian merchants  were  considered  the  most  enter- 
prising in  the  world.  They  stood  at  the  gateway 
from  Asia  to  Europe,  and  they  added  the  Coffee 
bean  from  Africa  to  the  spices  and  other  luxuries 
of  the  Orient. 

The  use  of  Coffee  quickly  spread  outward:  first 
to  Persia  and  Syria,  then  to  Cairo,  and  in  a  few 
years  to  Venice. 

Then  an  Arab  and  an  Abyssinian,  by  names 
Shem  and  Heken,  opened  the  first  Coffee  house  in 
Constantinople,  and  introduced  the  Turkish  public 
to  this  new  delight.  It  took  like  wildfire,  and 
their  house  was  thronged  day  and  night,  and  Ori- 
ental Coffee  houses  sprang  up  everywhere  in  the 
city.  It  is  said  that  the  poorer  classes  even 
begged  money  in  the  streets  to  purchase  Coffee. 
It  was  soon  a  firm  habit  with  the  Turkish  people, 
and  iwe  are  told  that  at  one  time  there  was  an 
edict  issued  to  the  effect  that  ''failure"  to  supply 
a  wife  with  a  specified  amount  of  Coffee  per  diem, 
was  admitted  to  be  a  valid  cause  for  divorce.  As 
in  Arabia,  the  drinking  of  Coffee  was  opposed  on 
religious  grounds,  but  with  the  same  results. 

It  was  not  until  1615  that  Coffee  was  allowed  to 
tickle  the  Western  palate.  This  was  brought 
over  by  some  Venetian  merchants,  and  served  to 
their  friends,  but  at  this  time  the  price  was  pro- 
hibitive, and  it  was  not  until  1650  that  it  was 
publicly  introduced  in  Europe.  At  this  time  a 
London  merchant  brought  over  a  quantity  of 
Arabia-n  Coffee  and  an  Armenian  servant  to  pre- 
pare it.  He  intended  serving  it  to  his  friends  and 
customers.  It  proved  an  instantaneous  success 
with  the  English  public.  He  found  his  place  so 
thronged  iwith  Coffee  drinkers,  that  he  was  una- 
ble to  conduct  his  business.  Thereupon  he  gave 
his  Armenian  a  tent  placed  on  a  side  street,  and 

11 


here  was  opened  the  first  English  Coffee  House, 
followed  by  others  rapidly.  These  were  tremen- 
dously popular  and  became  the  gathering  places 
of  the  famous  wits  and  nobility  of  the  day,  and 
developed  into  our  modern   club. 

The  progress  of  the  Coffee  bean  was  beset 
with  many  obstacles.  Although  Coffee  was  im- 
mediately popular,  it  had  no  easy  road  in  Eng- 
land. It  was  opposed  from  every  point  of  view — 
medical,  moral,  physical  and  political,  and  was 
excessively  taxed.  Religiously  inclined  people 
denounced  Coffee  as  an  insidiously  pernicious 
beverage.  Statesmen  saw  political  danger  in  the 
discussions  which  marked  the  attendance  at  the 
Coffee  houses.  On  this  ground  they  were  closed 
by  Government  orders  on  several  occasions,  and 
in  several  countries;  and  governments  found 
new  sources  of  revenue  by  heavy  taxation  on  ev- 
ery gallon  of  Coffee  brewed,  but  the  beverage 
proved  its  real  popularity  and  worth  by  out-living 
all  restrictions. 

In  1671  the  first  Coffee  house!  or  cafe  was  open- 
ed in  Marseilles.  It  proved  immediately  popular, 
and  the  cafes  soon  rivalled  the  older  cabarets  in 
attendance.  It  was,  however,  not  popular  at  this 
time  with  the  Nobility.  Louis  XIV  did  not  like 
Coffee,  consequently  his  Court  did  not.  It  be- 
came popular  with  the  Nobility  immediately, 
however,  upon  his  death,  and  it  is  said  that  the 
family  of  Louis  XV  spent  $12,000'  to  $15,000  a  year 
to  have  Coffee  on  their  table. 

For  about  fifty  years  after  the  advent  of  Coffee 
in  Europe,  the  entire  supply  came  from  Arabia- 
Mocha  Coffee,  so  called  from  the  port  from  which 
it  was  shipped.  About  1690,  however,  the  Dutch 
appeared  in  the  Worlds  Market  with  large  quan- 
tities of  Java,  and  from  this  time  on  the  growing 
of  Coffee  soon  spread  into  all  parts  of  the  Tropi- 
cal world. 

It  was  introduced  into  India  in  about  1700,  and 
about  twenty  years  later  into  Ceylon  from  Java 

12 


by  the  Dutch,  and  in  1740  into  the  Phillipines  by- 
Spanish  Missionaries  from  Java,  and  at  about 
this  time  the  first  shrub  or  tree  was  planted  in 
Brazil,  now  the  world's  greatest  Coffee  growing 
country,  and  a  little  later  it  spread  to  Cuba, 
Porto  Rico  and  Mexico,  and  then  to  practically  all 
parts  of  South  and  Central  America.  Today  Afri- 
ca, the  original  source  is  a  comparatively  unim- 
portant factor  in  the  production  of  Coffee,  how 
ever,  considerable  is  marketed  from  the  Liberian 
districts. 

In  every  instance,  in  all  countries,  the  public's 
instantaneous  acceptance  of  this  delightful  bev- 
erage, although  it  has  been  opposed  from  every 
point  of  view,  shows  that  a  commodity  for  which 
there  is  a  universal  craving  among  mankind,  civ- 
ilized or  savage,  cannot  be  denied,  regardless  of 
the  opposition  it  incurs,  and  it  is  today  the  sole 
hot  beverage  of  more  than  a  hundred  million  peo- 
ple. 

FROM  THE  SEED  TO  THE  CUP 

The  Coffee  bean  of  commerce  is  the  seed  of  a 
fruit,  resembling  in  size  and  shape  a  large  cran- 
berry very  much.  However,  its  general  appear- 
ance is  more  frequently  referred  to  as  like  a 
medium  sized  cherry,  and  is  yellowish-red  to  pur- 
ple-red when  ripe. 

The  fruit  of  the  "Cherry"  so  called,  is  made  up 
thus:  Beginning  from  the  outside:  An  outside 
skin  resembling  the  skin  of  a  cherry  in  texture — 
A  soft  pulp — Then  a  soft  glutinous  substance, 
containing  a  quantity  of  saccharine,  then  a  parch- 
ment coating  resembling  the  husk  of  wheat;  then 
the  "Silver-Skin"  (like  the  onion  skin).  Within 
this  are  usually  two  Coffee  beans ;  when  only  one 
bean  is  found  inside  the  "Cherry"  or  "Berry" 
(This  occurs  occasionally  in  all  varieties  and 
frequently  in  a  few)  the  "flat  side"  (?)  still  holds 
the    distinguishing    groove,    but    it    is    nearly    as 

13 


round  as  the  other.  These  beans  are  known  as 
"pea-berries",  "male^berries"  or  "Caracolillo" 
(Mexican)  or  "Caracole".  They  are  most  plenti- 
ful on  old  bushes  or  trees. 

The|  Coffee  "berry"  is  the  fruit  of  an  evergreen 
tree,  which  in  its  natural  growth  is  rather  slen- 
der and  attains  a  height  of  from  five  to  thirty 
feet.  The  plant  of  commerce,  however,  is  dwarfed 
to  about  five  feet.  This  seems  to  render  it  more 
sturdy,  and  also  convenient  for  gathering. 

There  are  many  varieties  of  Coffee  plants,  but 
all  having  the  same  general  characteristics.  Bot- 
anists seem  to  differ  as  to  whether  or  not  they 
are  really  divisible  into  different  families.  Pop- 
ularly speaking,  there  are  two  general  types. 
The  Arabian,  which  is  the  old  type,  furnishes 
practically  all  of  the  Coffee  of  commerce,  even 
the  Brazil  Man  and  Java  Coffee'  belongs  to  this 
tyipe.  The  Liberian  is  a  comparatively  new  type 
and  was  discovered  in  the  wilds  of  Liberia, 
(Western  Africa).  It  is  now  cultivated  exten- 
sively in  several  countries  including  Brazil,  the 
Outch  East  Indies,  Ceylon  and  Java,  the  latter 
name  sometimes  being  coupled  with  it  and  called 
African  Java  or  Liberian  Java. 

The  Maragogipi,  a  native  of  Brazil,  together 
with  Liberian  Coffees  are  receiving  considerable 
attention  on  account  of  the  more  hardy  growth 
of  the  plants  and  the  larger  size  of  the  bean. 
They  have  not  the  fine  cup  quality  of  the  Arabian 
'Coffee,  but  their  size  and  strength  enhance  their 
value  for  blending. 

Robusta  Coffee  is  a  late  arrival  in  the  Coffee 
world,  and,  has  been  received  by  many  with  con- 
siderable favor.  It  is  a  very  mild  characterless 
Coffee  and  practically  neutral  used  with  other 
Coffees;  is  usually  to  be  had  at  a  low  price  and 
ia  frequently  used  as  a  "filler"  in  both  the  cheap 
and  medium  priced  blends. 

The  Coffee  plant  requires  a  warm  climate  and 
very  warm  nights.     The  soil  must  be  deep  and 

14 


well  drained,  and  there  must  be  rain  every  month, 
and  from  one  hundred  to  one  hundred  and  fifty 
inches  within  the  year. 

The  Arabian  variety  grows  best  at  an  elevation 
of  from  2500  to  5000  feet,  and  the  Liberiam  grows 
well  at  1500  feet  down  to  almost  sea  level. 

The  plant  is  grown  from  seed  and  generally 
begins  to  bear  after  three  to  five  years.  The 
leaves  are  oblong,  dark  glossy-green  on  the  upper 
surface,  and  rather  a  pale-green  underneath,  from 
five  to  six  inches  long,  and  two  or  three  inches 
in  width.  The  flowers  are  white  and  fragrant, 
slightly  resembling  the  Jesamine  in  odor  and 
grow  in  great  clusters  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves. 
The  fruit  quickly  follows  the  flower;  the  flesh  or 
pulp  of  the  fruit  is  sweet  and  agreeable  in  flavor, 
and  is  frequently  eaten  by  the  pickers.  The  ber- 
ries must  be  taken  (picked)  from  the  trees  when 
ripe,  as  otherwise  they  fall  from  the  tree  and  are 
lost  to  the  planter. 

There  are  generally  two  or  three  main  harvests 
in  the  course  of  a  year,  and  cultivation  aims  to 
direct  the  crops  as  closely  to  that  end  as  possi- 
'ble,  but  to  a  greater  or  less  degree,  the  plant 
bears  blossoms  and  fruit  the  year  round. 

The  Coffee  beans  are  at  first  of  a  soft  bluish  or 
greenish  color,  becoming  hard  and  flinty  on  ex- 
posure, and  changing  usually  with  age  to  a  pale 
yellowish  tint  and  ocasionally  almost  a  golden 
hue. 

There  are,  two  methods  of  gathering  these  ber- 
ries. In  the  old,  or  Arabian  method,  cloths  are 
spread  on  the  ground  and  the  ripe  berries  are 
allowed  to  fall  into  these.  This  insures  getting 
full  ripe  berries,  and  raises  the  standard  of  the 
crop  decidedly,  due  to  the  ripeness  of  the  berry. 

The  other  method  which  is  in  use  in  practical- 
ly all  of  the  world,  consists  in  gathering  the  ber- 
ry by  hand.  This  method  is  used  in  practically 
every  coffee  raising  country  at  the  present  time, 

15 


with  the  exception  of  Arabia,  and  has  the  disad- 
vantage that  some  green  (immature)  berries  are 
gathered  which  often  materially  lowers  the  stand- 
ard of  the  crop.  This  may  be  guarded  against, 
however,  by  plunging  the  berries,  at  any  time  un- 
til roasted,  into  a  bath  of  water.  The  green  ber- 
ries are  light  and  will  float,  and  these  should  be 
thrown  away. 

The  next  process  consists  of  removing  the 
skin  and  pulp.  By  the  old,  or  "sun-dried"  meth- 
od, still  in  use  in  some  countries,  the  berries  are 
placed  in  the  sun  to  dry.  Then  when  fully  dry, 
the  skin  and  pulp  are  removed  by  pounding  in 
wooden  mortars  and  winnowed.  This  method 
has  the  disadvantage  that  son>>©  of  the  berries 
are  crushed  or  broken,  thereby  lowering  the  qual- 
ity of  the  batch,  but,  being  dried  in  the  sun  in 
the  original  skin,  all  of  the  flavor  is  retained,  and 
for  this  reason  it  is  said  to  produce  more  desired 
results  from  the  consTimers  point  ot  view,  though 
the  quality  is  lower  from  a  marketing  view  point. 

In  the  other  method,  called  the  West  Indian 
processv  the  berries  are  pulped  the  same  day 
they  are  gathered,  being  run  between  two  rollers. 
Next,  water  is  let  in  and  the  pulp  floated  away, 
being  saved  for  use  a£>  a  fertilizer,  or  as  a  Coffee 
substitute.  The  "parchment"  beans  are  then  put 
into  a  cistern  for  the  removal  of  the  glutinous 
coating.  This  is  removed  hy  one  of  two  methods. 
In  the  popular  method  water  is  added  to  the  ber- 
ries in  the  cistern,  and  they  are  allowed  to  set 
about  forty-eight  hours.  The  water  is  then  run 
off  and  the  berries  are  washed  free  of  the  coat- 
ing. The  other  method  consists  of  putting  the 
berries  into  the  cistern  without  water  and  allow- 
ing them  to  ferment,  the  coating  then  removed 
as  in  the  former  method.  The  latter  method  is 
preferable  from  the  consumers  view  point,  since 
it  is  claimed  that  in  allowing  the  berries  to  set 
in  the  water  for  two  days,  some  of  the  flavor  and 
aroma  is  lost. 

1« 


The  berries  are  dried,  preferably  in  the  sun, 
when  the  air  is  not  too  damp  and  hot,  but  if  there 
is  danger  of  fermentation,  which  will  take  place 
under  these  conditions,  they  are  machine  dried. 
This  method  does  not  seem  to  have  any  injurious 
effect  on  the  quality  of  the  Coffee  produced. 

The  berries  are  then  run  through  a  "peeler," 
and  the  parchment  and  "silver-skin"  removed,  the 
waste  being  winnowed  away.  They  are  then 
sorted  according  to  size,  cleaned  of  rubbish,  trash, 
etc.,  and  packed. 

The  method  of  sizing  or  grading  varies:  some- 
times an  inclined  revolving  cylindrical  sieve,  di- 
vided into  different  sized  meshes  is  used;  again 
in  some  of  the  more  up-to-date  plantations,  sep- 
arators of  the  eccentric  or  vibrator  type  have 
succeeded  the  former  method.  The  separation  in 
either  method  is  followed  up  by  a  careful  sorting 
over  by  hand,  especially  of  the  better  grades. 

In  olden  times  the  product  was  now  ready  for 
market,  as  practically  everyone  roasted  their  own 
Cofee;  now-a-days,  however,  by  far  the  greater 
part  or  the  Coffee  sold  is  already  roasted. 

This  roasting,  although  it  is  not  generally 
known  by  the  people,  is  a  very  precarious  propo- 
sition, because  the  best  Coffee  poorly  roasted,  is 
poor  Coffee.  If  over  roasted,  the  "snap"  and  fra- 
grance is  gone — if  under  done,  it  tastes  grassy, 
green  and  raw,  and  makes  a)  very  poor  cup.  Ten 
seconds  either  way  might  spoil  the  roast. 

The  roasting  is  done  in  large  revolving  drums 
or  cylinders,  under  which  a  brisk  fire,  is  kept  and 
regulated  according  to  the  type  of  Coffee  being 
roasted.  The  Coffee  must  be  constantly  turned 
to  roast  regularly,  and  should  be  roasted  quite 
rapidly  in  order  to  protect  and  retain  the  active 
principles.  When  properly  roasted,  it  should  be 
cooled  as  quickly  as  possible  to  prevent  loss  of 
strength,  and  then  should  be  immediately  packed 
in  closely  sealed  containers,  preferably  air  tight, 

17 


as  the  oil  cells  have  been  broken  open  by  the 
heat  action  and  the  volatile  oil  containing  the 
aroma  of  the  Coffee  is  quickly  dissipated. 

•Grenerally  Coffee  aged  two  or  three  years  makes 
the  best  roast  from  the  point  of  drinking  quali- 
ties. 

According  to  good  authority  (and  the  writer's 
opinion)  the  Coffee  is  just  now  ready  for  blend- 
ing, however,  it  is  a  later  day  custom  to  blend 
the  green  Coffees  and  then  roast.  This  custom 
is  followed  very  extensively,  but  there  is  no  ques- 
tion but  the  different  sized  beans  and  the  differ- 
ent aged  berries,  and  the  green  and  dry  berries 
require  different  treatment  in  the  roaster. 

In  blending,  we  know  that  some  Coffees  have 
Aroma,  some  have  Flavor,  and  some  Strength, 
Body,  Character.  The  unknown  quantity  in 
blending  is  the  "public  palate."  We  have  to 
consider  only  what  they  will  like.  After  we  have 
determined  on  the  favored  blend,  we  should  ad- 
here strictly  to  it — ^this  is  quite  a  task  and  re- 
quires good  taste  and  discernment,  for  it  must 
be  borne  in  mind  that  the  essential  qualities  of 
the  Coffee  berry  varies — this  year's  crop  is  not 
exactly  like  last  year's  crop  from  the  same  tree — 
nor  is  the  berry  in  a  given  district  identical  with 
tha  same  berry  in  another  part  of  the  same  dis- 
trict, so  it  may  readily  be  seen  that  great  care 
must  be  taken  to  maintain  the  standard  of  any 
special  blend,  and  can  only  be  accomplished  by 
painstakingly  cupping  and  tasting  the  liquors 
from  various  types  until  "matched." 

The  Coffee  classifications  best  known  to  the 
general  public  are  "Mocha,"  "Java,"  '^Maracaibo," 
"Colombian,"  "Santos,"  "Bourbon  Santos,"  "Li- 
berian,"  "Rio,"  "Guatemala"  and  "Pea-Berry"  (or 
Caracole). 

The  cheapest  varieties  of  general  consumption 
are  low  grade  (Rio's,  and  the  dearest  the  high 
grade  Mochas  and  Javas  or  East  Indian. 

18 


So  much  for  the  cultivation  and  preparation  of 
Coffee.  Let  us  now  consider  how  it  is  judged 
for  marketing. 


COFFEE   SELECTION 

Vast  experience  is  essential  to  the  training  of  a 
Coffee  Expert. 

The  chapters  following  on  the  different  Coffee 
growths  give  brief  descriptions  of  the  beans  of 
the  principal  varieties,  but  there  are  so  many 
different  kinds,  so  much  alike  and  yet  so  many 
minor  differences  of  size,  appearance,  color  and 
cup  quality,  that  very  few  people  can  correctly 
judge  the  quality  of  a  bean  by  its  appearance 
raw,  and  only  the  keenest  experts  can  determine 
its  classification  after  roasting. 

Coffees  are  judged  first  by  the  form  of  the 
bean.  There  being  three  general  types  in  this 
regard,  but  in  as  much  as  some  Coffee  plants 
bear  beans  of  all  three  types,  this  is  'but  a  sum- 
mary test. 

The  best  test  for  a  layman  is  by  a  sample  in- 
fusion after  roasting  and  grinding. 

The  next  test  is  the  size.  The  medium  sized 
bean  of  any"  variety  is  generally^  regarded  as  pos- 
sessing the  finest  flavor,  but  there  is  no  fixed 
standard  as  to  size,  as  this  varies  with  the  locali- 
ties, where  the  beans  are  cultivated,  the  kind  of 
season — ^whether  wet  or  dry,  and  various  other 
reasons. 

Color  is  the  next  test — in  which  we  find  a 
variation  all  the  way  from  a  transparent  yellow 
to  a  bluish-green,  dark-brown  or  black. 

Each  geographical  division  has  a  different 
standard  of  color,  and  also  every  locality  of  dis- 

19 


tribution  has  different  requirements.  Far  exam- 
ple:, in  buying  "Rio"  we  note  that  Chicago  wants 
mediun^  to  light  green.  Cincinnati,  yellow.  Lou- 
isville, yellow  and  dark-green.  Texas,  darkest- 
green.  And  each  market  is  willing  to  pay  a  pre- 
mium to  get  the  shade  it  wants. 

The  place  of  production  is  the  next  require- 
ment. This  is  based  mainly  on  what  those  names 
mean  to  the  public.  Mocha  being  the  first  Coffee 
used,  was  immortalized  in  song  and  story,  so 
naturally  the  largest  demand  is  for  IVIocha,  con- 
sequently if  it  looks  like  IVIocha,  it's  in  demand. 

The  next  requirement  is  the  geographical  loca- 
tion of  the  place  of  production — ^whether  highland 
or  lowland.  The  highlands  produce  much  better 
grades  of  Coffee,  as  it  is  firmer  textured,  not  so 
watery  or  grassy  of  flavor. 

The  next  considerations  are  the  smell,  flavor, 
uniformity,  age  and  absence  of  foreign  particles. 
While  on  the  subject  of  age,  it  may  be  of  interest 
to  note  that  Coffee  takes  an  added  quality  with 
age,  like  wine,  and  it  is  said  that  artificial  ageing 
is  done  just  prior  to  the  roasting.  It  is  deter- 
mined by  the  color  of  the  bean,  iwhich  must  be 
well  washed  to   determine  "premature  age.'* 

The  final  step  in  judging  Coffee  is  the  roasting, 
when  the  Aroma,  etc.,  is  observed.  The  Coffee 
is  then  ground  and  an  infusion  made  for  the  pur- 
pose of  observing  the  flavor,  body,  etc. 

As  to  the  range  in  quality — it  is  too  wide  to  be 
discussed  here.  For  example,  Brazilian  Coffee 
is  first  divided  into  ten  grades,  ranging  in  quality 
from  the  equal  of  the  best  IVIocha  down  to  the 
poorest  Mexican,  and  in  truth  the  most  of  the 
Mocha  (?),  until  recently,  was  '*iGrolden  Rio." 
Then  the  quality  varies  again  every  year,  as  to 
the  size  and  quality  of  the  crop  produced  and  the 
general  condition  of  the  market. 

20 


An  analysis  of  Coffee  follows: 

Moisture 11.22 

Oils  and  Fats    14.27 

Albumen    '6.96 

Caffeine     1.18 

Ash     3.51 

Caffeo  ] 

Matter  soluble  in  water  ^ 24.87 

Tannic  acid,  etc.  J 

Of  these  ingredients,  Caffeo,  the  esential  oil, 
Caffeine  alkaloid,  the  stimulant  and  Tannic  Acid, 
the  astringent,  concern  us  most.  Let  us  con- 
sider them  separately. 

Caffeine  gives  to  Coffee  its  delicious  aroma 
when  roasting.  It  produces  a  slight,  gentle  pers- 
piration, an  agreeable  excitement,  and  stimulates 
the  mental  faculties.  It  retards  in  a  marked  de- 
gree the  waste  of  tissue,  and  has  a  slight  aperient 
effect  on  the  bowels. 

Caffeine  has  no  odor  and  a  bitter  taste.  It  in- 
creases nervous  activity,  enlivens  the  imagination 
and  increases  the  heart  and  pulse. 

Tannic  Acid  is  an  astringent.  To  it  is  ascribed 
the  flavor  and  chief  properties  of  Coffee  as  a 
beverage. 

When  we  consider  these  together  in  combina- 
tion, we  have  a  combination  that  exhilirates, 
arouses  and  keeps  awake,  counteracts  the  stupor 
of  fatigue,  disease  and  opium.  It  allays  hunger 
to  a  certain  extent  and  gives  the  weary  increased 
strength  and  vigor. 

Physiologically,  it  makes  the  brain  more  active, 
yet  soothes  the  hody,  and  lessens  the  change  of 
the  tissue,  and  consequently  there  is  a  lesser  de- 
mand for  food. 

Taken  in  moderate  quantities,  Coffee  quickens 
the  gastric  juices  and  relieves  the  feeling  of 
plentitude  after  a  meal. 

The  Coffee  we  get  is  73.%  Brazilian.  The  rest 
is  mostly  Central  American,  yet  the  majority  of 

21 


brands  of  roasted  Coffee  on  the  American  market, 
probably  60%  of  it,  until  recently,  was  Mocha 
and  Java  Blend.     Can  you  figure  it? 

'Some  statistics: 

A  man  picks  120  lbs.  of  Coffee  berries  a  day. 
120  lbs.  of  berries  yield  15  lbs.  of  dried  green 

beans. 
One  tree  yields  1  to  8  lbs.  of  Coffee  a  year. 
Coffee  loses  5  to  8%  in  ageing. 
Coffee  loses  16  to  22%  in  roasting. 

Good  'Coffee  depends  upon: 
Quality  of  the  seed  bean. 
Locality  where  raised — high  or  low. 
Annual  amount  of  rainfall. 
Method  of  picking. 
Method  of  preparing,  sun  cured  or  not,  dry  or 

wet  ferment. 
Age,  before  roasting. 
Proper  roasting. 

Absence  of  "blights"  or  "Quakers." 
•Proper  blending. 
Proper  grinding. 
The  public  palate. 

Everyone  used  to  roast  his  own  Coffee. 

iCoffee  loses  its  aroma  and  flavor  very  soon  af- 
ter roasting,  and  should  have  every  protection 
possible. 

The  final  process  is  the  grinding,  and  this 
should  always  be  done,  when  possible,  immediate- 
ly before  use,  as  Coffee  loses  much  of  its  flavor 
and  aroma  in  a  very  short  while  after  grinding. 
This  process  is  much  more  important  than  most 
people  realize,  and  the  finished  product  may  be 
spoiled  for  a  lover  of  good  Coffee  by  improper 
grinding.  If  it  is  ground  too  coarsely,  you  do  not 
get  the  flavor  and  strength  in  the  infusion.  If  it 
is  ground  too  finely,  you  get  the  same  effect  as 
in  over-boiling,  too  much  Tannic  Acid  extracted 
and  a  biter  acrid  cup. 

22 


Coffee  should  be  differently  ground  for  every 
method  of  preparation:  e.  g.,  perculator  Coffee 
requires  a  fine  grinding;  boiled  Coffee  a  coarse 
grinding. 

Simple  tests  for  ground  Coffee  are:  (1)  Press 
a  little  of  the  ground  Coffee  between  the  fingers 
— if  it  cakes,  it  is  adulterated,  probably  with 
Chickory.  (2)  Place  a  little  of  the  dry  Coffee  in 
a  glass  of  water.  If  nearly  all  floats  and  the 
water  does  not  color,  or  only  a  very  little,  the 
Coffee  is  probably  pure.  If  part  sinks,  it  is  adul- 
terated, probably  with  cereal,  chickory  or  simi- 
lar substances.  If  the  water  turns  a  deep  reddish 
tint,  chickory  has  been  added  to  it.  (3)  Spread 
a  little  dry  Coffee  on  a  piece  of  glass  or  some- 
thing similar  and  moisten  with  a  few  drops  of 
water.  Then  pick  out  some  of  the  smallest  pieces 
with  a  needle,  if  they  are  soft,  the  Coffee  is  cer- 
tainly adulterated,  as  real  Coffee  bean  particles 
stay  hard  even  after  long  immersion  in  water. 

It  must  be  remembered  that  the  above  tests 
apply  only  to  the  purity  of  the  bean.  They  tell 
nothing  of  the  flavor  or  aroma,  which  are  deter- 
mining points  of  value. 

A  Coffee  may  be  perfectly  pure,  yet  be  harsh, 
musty,  hidey  or  in  many  ways  undesirable,  hence 
the  necessity  of  testing*  flavor  and  aroma  by  mak- 
ing infusion. 

In  (purchasing  the  raw  beans,  one  should  also 
thoroughly  bear  in  mind  that:  (1)  If  all  of  one 
variety  (i^  e.,  before  blending)  they  should  be 
Ifairly  uniform  in  size,  apeparance  anjd  color. 
(2)  They  should  be  free  from  stems,  stones,  dirt 
and  all  such  foreign  matter.  (3)  Wlien  cut,  they 
should  be  the  same  general  color  all  the  way 
through.  If  the  inside  is  considerably  lighter 
than  the  outside,  it  will  usually  be  found  that 
the  beans  have  been  artificially  colored.  Of  re- 
cent years,  however,  this  deception  has  been  prac- 
ticed very  little,  if  any. 

23 


THE   PRINCIPAL   COFFEE   GROWING 
COUNTRIES 

Giving  the  Principal  Trade  Names,  also  Districts, 
Plantations  and  Chief  Characteristics  of  the 
Various  Coffees. 


NORTH    AMERICA 


Mexico 


Central    America 


Colima. 

Guatemala: — ^Coban. 

Corodoba. 

Costa    Rica. 

Chiapas. 

c  ,      ,         ( Santa  Anna, 
Salvador:  |  iSanta  Tecia. 

Triunfo. 

Tabas(30. 

Honduras. 

Tarn  pi  CO. 

Nicaragua. 

Tapachula. 

Belize. 

Olaxaca.     (IP  r  o"  n  o  u  need 

Wahaka     or     War-har- 

kar.) 

Sierra. 

Coatzacoalcos. 

Uruapan. 

Coatepec.    (Tepic) 

SOUTH 

AMERICA 

Venezuela 

Ecuador 

Ang^ostura. 

Guayaquil. 

r  Caracas  :-— 

1      Trillade. 
La  Guaira:  ■{  Porto  Ca- 
bello. 

Colombia-Sabanilla 

Bog-ota. 

L  Coro. 

Uanca. 

r  iCucuta. 
1  Merida. 
1  Tovar. 

Jerico, 
Bucaramang'a.             ^ 

Antioquia : — ^Mendellin. 

Maracaibo :  ■{  Salazar. 
1  Trujillo. 

Ocana. 
Santa   Marta. 

Bocono. 
.  Tacharia. 

Carupano. 

Brazil 

Rio.                f  Campinas. 

'  Caravella. 
Nazareth. 

Santos:        1  Bourbon. 

Bahia:  -j  Chapada. 

Victoria.     Capatania. 

Minas-Garaes. 

Ceara.        Cuaruaru. 

Maragog-ipe. 

WEST   INDIA  ISLANDS 

Guadeloupe. 

Puerto    Rico. 

Martinique. 

Hayti. 

Cuba. 

San  Domingo. 

Jamaica— Blue  Mountain. 

Guracao. 

24 


PACIFIC   ISLANDS 


Hawaiian 

Islands. 

Phillipine 

Islands.— Ma- 

nilla. 

ASIA 

Arabia 

Abyssinian 

r  Yemien 

Harrar.    (Dong  bean). 

Tehama 

Magrache. 

Mocha:  {  Serki 

■ISliorl 

Sanani 

Bean 

^Hodeida  . 

AFRICA 

INDIA 

Guinea. 

Mysore. 

Enconge. 

Liberia. 

Malabar 

Abyssinia. 

EAST    INDIA   ISLANDS 

Timor. 

Sumatra 

Bali. 

Mandheling. 

Celebes — ^Macassar. 

Ankola. 

Tag-al. 

Ayerbangies. 

Kroe. 

Padang:  ^ 

Painan. 

Lfjhat. 

Interior. 

Corinche. 

Indrapoers. 

Beongie. 

.Palembang. 

Singapore. 

Bockit   Gom- 

Ceylon. 

pong. 

Straits  Liberian. 

iSoemanik. 

Bonthyne. 

Gadoeng  Batoe 
'Soerian. 
Loboe  Raya. 
Loboe  tSiampir. 
Si  Barasap. 

Private 

Akar  Gedand 

Estate: 

Merapi. 

Taloeg  Gedang. 
Lioeboeg  Ge- 
dand. 
[Like. 

Soengu  L^ndei. 
iSbengu  Ram^- 
^     boekan. 

Java 

Bantam. 

Japara. 

Batavia. 

Soerkarta. 

Buitenzorg. 

Djokjarkarta. 

Preanger. 

Madroen. 

Krawang. 

Reimang. 

Cheribon. 

Sourabaya. 

Togal. 

Kedire. 

Banjoemas. 

Malang. 

Pekalongan. 

Pasoeroean. 

Baquilan. 

Probolingo. 

Kadoe. 

Bejreki. 

Samarang. 

Banjo  ewangi. 

Pamanoekin.   (Libei 

rian.) 

25 


COFFEE  CHART 
Of  the  Popular  and   Commonly  Used  Types 


BRAZIL, 
SOUTH 
AMERICA. 


RFC 


r  Golden 
-j  and  the 
i  numbers 


Santos 


Flat  Bean 
■Cfurley  Bean 
Red   Bean 
Bourbon 


COLOMBIA, 
SOUTH 
AMERICA. 


CENTRAL 


]  Bucaramanga, 
i^iSabanillas 
J  Antioquia 

f'Medellin 
Bogota's     -{  Manizales     fExoelsO 
t  Pantassia    ]  and 

L  Extra 


Guatemala 


Costa   Rica 


Cob  an 
Costa    Cuca 
Costa  Granda 
Costa    De    Cusha 
Tumbador 

'  Caracole 
V  and   the   numbers 

1 1st,   2nd,   3rd 


AMERICA. 

Salvador 

f  Yellow  Bean 
1  Green    Bean 

Nicaragua 

f  Natural 
1  Washed 
r  Yellow 

Honduras 

■{  Heavy 

[  Bean 

Jamaica 

(Blue  Mountain) 

San   Domingo 

Porto    Rican 

DUTCH     AND 

Haitian 

BRITISH                        ^ 

Guantanamo  1  Best   Cuban 

WEST    INDIES 

Alquizar 

y  Districts 

Marcos 

and 
.  'Plantations 

Sierra    Maes- 

L            tra 

'  Cucuta 
Meridia 

Maracaibo 

-  Bocona 

VENEZUELA, 

Tovar 

SOUTH 

^ 

(  Trujillo 

AMERICA. 

r  Oaraeas 

La  Guaira 

-  Porto 
Cabello 

L 

I  Coro 

MEXICAN 


r       Coatepec       (Tepic) 


Cordoba 
Caracolillo     (Tea,  Berry) 
Cordoba       (Mexican    Jack) 

26 


EAST    INDIA, 
JAVA     ISLANDS. 

EAST    INDIA 
SUMATRA 
ISLANDS. 


EAST    INDIA, 
JAVA     ISLANDS. 


ARABIA 


CEYLON 

INDIA 

ECUADOR 
HAWAIIAN 

PHILLIPPINES 


Javas 


Mandheling 
Ankola 


r  Plantation 
I  Government 
■{  Blue-Bean   or 
I  Washed  East 
L     Indian 

j-  Javas 


{ 


I 


Liberian         fJava 
Robusta        ^  Coffee 

iLaurentii 

r  Yemen    1  Grades 
Mocha  ■{  Tehama  J^'Nos.  1,  lA, 
[iSanani    J  2,   3 

Harrar        (Longl3erry) 
Abyssianian 

'^Native" 

"Plantation" 

Liberian- 

Ceylon 

Ceylon 

Malabar 
Mysore 

Guayaquils 

Konos 

Luzon 

Manila 

Zamboango 


(Liberian    Hyfbrid) 
(Arabia  Seed) 


All   Coffee  plants  produce  some   Caracole   (Pea 
berry). 

Some  types  are  always  "unwashed."    However, 
most  types  may  be  had  "washed"  or  natural. 


DIVISIONS 

The  first  division  of  Coffee  is  into  "strong"  and 
**mild."  The  Rio's  and  some  of  the  Santos  are 
commonly  said  to  constitute  the  "strong"  varie- 
ties. (However,  the  writer  considers  it  correct  to 
include  Liberians  and  some  of  the  hybrids).  The 
other  part  of  the  Santos  crop  and  practically  all 
the  importations  of  the  other  kinds,  come  under 
the  heading  of  mi  Ids. 

The  next  classification  by  the  Wholesale  Mer- 
chant is  by  the  iCountry  of  Export,  sub-divided  in 
each  case  into  various  growths  and  grades. 


27 


BRAZIL,  RIO,  SANTOS,   BOURBON  SANTOS 

The  best  known  Brazil  Coffeesi  are  the  Rios 
and  Santos. 

Rio  Coffees  are  heavy  in  body  and  with  a  dis- 
tinctive flavor  and  aroma,  in  fact  in  most  in- 
stances Rio  Coffees  are  strong  to  rankness  but 
properly  built  around  in  blends,  help  to  produce 
a  very  fine  strong  drink.  Individually  they  are 
generally  of  a  very  pungent  character.  Again, 
however,  some  of  the  Higher  Types,  such  as,  say, 
'^Golden  Rio"  are  of  fine  character  and  are  splen- 
did in  the  cup.  The  beans  vary  in  size  and  color 
from  large  to  small,  and  dark  green  to  light  yel- 
low. But  in  the  main,  Rio  Coffeei  is  a  low  grade 
Brazilian  growth  of  a  very  pronounced,  strong, 
even  rank  flavor,  and  is  rapidly  losing  favor  in 
the  eyes  of  the  best  informed  trade. 

It  is  now  only  used  in  limited  sections  of  the 
United  States  to  any  extent.  It  has  been  re- 
marked that  one  bag  of  Rio  mixed  with  ten  bags 
of  any  other  Coffee  would  produce  eleven  bags  of 
— Rio..  Formerly  it  was  thought  that  Rio  combin- 
ed with  Java  produced  a  satisfactory  blend. 


SANTOS  COFFEES 

Santos  Coffees  are  generally  milder  than  "Rios" 
and  very  smooth  and  pleasing  in  the  cup,  not  so 
full  as  many  types,  but  very  mellow  and  a  splen- 
did blender  with  most  types,  excepting,  perhaps, 
East  Indian  or  Javas,  e.  g.,  such  as  Padangs,  Ma- 
cassars, Mandhelings,  etc.  Some  authority  has  said 
it  is  like  mixing  cream  with  water  to  try  to  blend 
Santos  with  the  latter  named  'Coffees, — "it  would 
be  better  to  buy  milk  to  begin  with";  at  any  rate 
the  writer  has  never  been  successful  in  'blending 
the  two  types. 

The  finer  grades  of  Santos  are  of  such  excellent 
quality  that  they  have  been  widely  substituted 
for  even  high  grade  Javas  and  Mochas  (practiced 


but  little  if  any  now),  the  "curley  bean"  being 
used  in  the  latter  case.  They  range  from  large  to 
small,  and,  from  green  and  rich  yellow  to  very 
pale  yellow. 

For  purposes  of  exchange  transactions,  it  is 
customary  to  term  any  Coffee  shipped  through 
the  port  of  Santos,  Santos  Coffee* 

The  City  of  Santos  is  the  shipping  center  of  the 
State  of  Sao  Paulo,  Brazil,  and  is  the  World's 
greatest  Coffee  port. 

''Red  Bean  Santos"  is  obtained  from  the  Campi- 
nas district.  It  is  considered  more  "flavory"  and 
richer  than  the  yellow  or  greenish  varieties. 

"Bourbon  Santos"  is  a  small  bean  variety  (some- 
times called  "curley  bean")  which  has  grown  rap- 
idly in  popularity  on  account  of  its  winey  or  vin- 
ous character.  It  was  formerly  sold  as  "Mocha" 
or  "Mocha  Seed"  and  is  even  now  sometimes 
spoken  of  as  the  "Mocha"  of  South  America.  It  was 
originally  grown  from  Mocha  seed  (Coffee  Arab- 
ica).  The  bean  for  the  first  two  or  three  crops 
looks  like  a  Mocha  bean  and  makes  a  handsome 
roast.  In  appearance  it  should  be  small,  partially 
round  crinkley  bean,  and,  if  a  genuine  Bourbon 
Santos,  should  more  nearly  resemble  ''Mocha  Cof- 
fee" (With  reference  to  style  and  cup  character 
than  any  other  Coffee. 

"Flat  Bean  Santos,"  After  the  third  year  of 
bearing,  the  Bourbon  or  Mocha  Seed  Santos  takes 
on  a  flat  bean  characteristic  which  causes  it  to 
be  spoken  of  thereafter  as  Flat  Bean  Santos. 

The  State  of  Sao  Paulo,  Brazil,  produces  the 
Santos  Coffee,  so  called;  because  it  is  shipped 
through  the  port  of  Santos.  Santos  Coffee  har- 
vest takes  place  in  May  and  June,  and  the  average 
crop  of  beans  obtained  from  each  tree  varies 
from  one  to  six  pounds.  (In  some  cases  more 
possibly). 

The  principal  types  cultivated  in  Sao  Paulo  are: 
The  Bourbon,  Creoulo,  Amarelio  and   Maragogipe. 

29 


The  Borbon  is  the  most  delicate  and  short  lived 
tree,  but  the  greatest  producer,  usually  producing 
an  abundant  crop,  but  the  beans  are  the  smallest 
of  the  four  principal  varieties. 

The  other  three  do  not  produce  so  abundantly, 
but  are  long-lived  and  hardy.  The  Creoulo.  or 
common  native  variety,  and  the  Amarello  or  yel- 
low variety  bear  yellow  instead  of  red  berries,  (or 
Cherries)  and  the  Maragogipe  grows  on  the  larg- 
est tree,  has  the  largest^  beans.  (So  large  in  fact, 
as  to  he  called  freakish,  frequently).  The  Coffees 
produced  by  these  varieties  are  classified  on  the 
estates  according  to  size,  shape  and  pureness  of 
quality,  into:  Fine  Moka,  Fine  Flat,  Superior, 
Good,  Regular,  Ordinary  and  Refuse.  These  are 
classified  in  types  ranging  from  one  to  nine  in- 
clusive'— ^One,  Two  and  Three  being  the  best. 
Type  one  does  not  have  a  single  black  bean.  Six 
black  beans  iper  pound  are  permissible  in  Type 
Two.  Type  Three  is  allowed  thirteen  black  beans 
to  the  pound.  The  two  first  Types  are  not  to  be 
found  on  the  market.  The  scarcity  of  Type  Three 
makes  Type  Four  the  commercial  base  for  these 
iCoffees.  This  Type  is  allowed  to  contain  up  to 
thirty  black  beans  to  the  pound.  To  designate 
the  quality,  black  beans  increase  in  number  until 
Type  Nine  is  allowed  850  in  a  single  pound  and 
lower,  the  classification  proportionately.  Type 
Seven  poor  quality  with  20'0  black  heans  per  pound 
is  usually  about  13  or  14  cents  per  Ten  Pounds 
Cheaper  than  Type  Four.  (iBlack  beans  are  com- 
monly called  "Quakers.") 

In  addition  to  the  foregoing,  the  State  of  Sao 
Paulo  grows  some  of  all  different  types  and  quali- 
ties of  Coffee  known  in  all  parts  of  the  world. 

The  winey  or  vinous  character  of  the  Bourbon 
Santos  is  frequently  alluded  to  as  acid  or  acidy. 
In  the  estimation  of  the  writer  such  terms  as  acid, 
acidy  or  non-acidy  applied  to  Coffee  not  only 
maligns    a   wholesome   product,   but   is    positively 

30 


erroneous.  In  all  the  accumulated  "data"  cover- 
ing a  period  of  tliirty  years,  I  have  never  read  a 
chemical  analysis  showing  a  Bourbon  (or  flat 
bean)  to  contain  either  more  or  less  acid  than 
any  other  Coffee.  It  is  true  that  some  Coffees 
have  a  more  distinct,  **stand-outish"  or  winey 
flavor  than  others,  the  same  as  some  Coffees  are 
stronger  than  others — in  either  case  the  distinct- 
iveness is  brought  about  no  doubt,  first,  from  the 
origin  of  the  seed  and  then  from  soil,  altitude  or 
climatic  conditions  or  the  combination  of  these 
conditions. 

Among  the  numerous  other  types  of  Brazilian 
Coffee  are  "Victoria"  or  Capotuica,  Bahia  and  Li- 
berlan   Rio. 

The  most  generally  accepted  grades  of  "Rio'? 
and  ''Santos"  are  from  1  to  10,  or  as  follows 

Fancy: — ^Large  and  uniform  in  color  and  in 
size:  clear  and  perfect  in  selection  and  attractive 
in  general  appearance,  divided  into  "light,"  "med- 
ium" and  "dark." 

Prime: — Very  clear  and  regular  in  color  and 
size,  hut  not  so  rich  in  appearancee  as  "Fancy." 

Good: — Uniform  in  color  and  size,  but  ranging 
from  "Clear"  to  "Strictly  Clear."  Divided  into 
"Light,"  "Medium"  and  "Dark."  This  is  the  aver- 
age or  standard  grade,  now  quoted  as  4s  com- 
mercially. 

Fair: — Only  moderate  and  liable  to  contain 
many  black  (commonly  called  ''Quakers")  broken 
and  otherwise  imperfect  beans: 

Ordinary: — Irregular  in  color  and  size  and  lia- 
ble to  contain  many  black  broken  heans  and  a 
proportion  of  hulls,  etc. 

Common: — The  lowest  grade,  mixed  with  bad 
and  broken  beans,  chaff,  hulls,  etc. 

SI 


COLOMBIA,    BUCARAMANGA,    BOGATA, 
"SABANILLA" 

Colombia:— A  State  located  in  the  extreme 
northern  part  of  South  America,  also  lightly  touch- 
ing the  west  coast. 

Colombia  is  and  has  been  for  yeais  one  of  our 
most  important  producers  of  fine  Coffees,  and  its 
natural  advantages  promise  still  more  abundant 
production. 

Being  near  the  Equator,  Colombian  Coffees  may 
be  raised  at  a  much  higher  altitude  than  i&  possi- 
ple  in  most  countries. 

Quality  in  Coffee  depends  upon  high  altitudes 
more  than  any  other  single  condition,  hence  the 
High  Grade.  . 


BOGOTAS  AND  BUCARAMANGAS 

The  City  of  Bogota  is  approximately  900O  feet 
above  the  sea  level.  Bucaramanga  is  slightly  low- 
er. The  districts  surrounding  produce  among  the 
choicest  grades  of  Coffee  in  the  world.  These 
Coffees  (particularly  the  Bucaramanga).  when  ex- 
tra well  aged,  as  was  the  case  during  the  Vene- 
zuelan war,  take  on  such  a  rich  hrown  color  and 
show  such  mellowness  in  the  cup  as  to  be  indis- 
tinguishable When  placed  beside  Mandhellngs  and 
An  kolas  of  Sumatra,  either  in  appearance  or  the 
cup. 

The  Bogotas  properly  speaking  are  produced  in 
a  district  of  small  area;  in  fact  the  production  of 
the  true  Bogota  is  limited  to  perhaps  12,000  to 
18,000  bags  a  year,  however,  the  Coffees  raised  in 
the  districts  of  Manlzales,  Antioquia,  Honda  and 
Canca  are  generally  bought  and  sold  as  Bogotas, 
and  with  the  exception  of  the  last  named,  these 
districts  produce  some  excellent  Coffees,  particu' 
larly  the  fane/  grades. 

a2 


Good  grade  Bogotas  possess  splendid  winey 
body,  and  flavor,  and  when  aged  make  wonderful 
individual   drinkers. 

Bogotas  of  (particularly  "iwiney"  character  are 
good  to  use  with  (or  in  place  of)  Mocha  and 
Harrar  for  cost  reduction  and  improving  the  ap- 
pearance for  Abyssinian  Coffee  usually  carries 
many  "quakers"  and  Arabian  is  generally  insig- 
nificant to  look  upon. 

The  Bucaramanga  and  Bogotas,  which  are  the 
two  best  known  varieties  of  Colombia,  rank  among 
the  finest  of  American  Coffees. 

Bucaramanga  and  the  district  by  that  name  is 
a  good  ten  days  or  two  weeks  journey  from  Bogo- 
ta with  mules. 

The  finest  Bucaramangas  are  the  Naturals  (un- 
washed), particularly  when  the  season  and  cli- 
mate gives  them  a  well  browned  growth.  It  is 
then  that  these  Coffees  have  such  heavy  body  as 
to  be  called  the  "backbone"  of  blends.  Fine  Javas 
and  Sumatras  are  but  slightly  superior;  in  fact, 
Bucaramangas  of  this  type,  and  particularly  well 
age(J,  iwlU  do  practically  the  same  work  of  Javas; 
they  are  possibly  not  quite  so  winey  or  flavory, 
but  their  extraordinary  strength  makes  10  to  20 
per  cent  a  strong  factor  in  ''blends." 

Good  grade  Colombian  Coffees  produce  25% 
more  strength  in  the  cup  than  the  same  weight  in 
Santos,  and  gives  a  flavor  and  aroma  unobtain- 
able from  Santos. 

Bucaramangas  are  frequently  referred  to  as 
''Bucs." 

Savanillas  are  sometimes  sold  as  "Bucs"  but 
never  carry  the  heavy  body  for  which  the  Bucara- 
mangas are  used.  So  called  Savanillas  are  usual- 
ly Maracaibos.  Some  Colombians,  however,  are 
correctly  known  as  "Savanillas"  commercially. 
A  good  Maracaibo  is  more  desirable  than  the 
cheaper  "Bucs." 

33 


The  Bucaramanga  bean  is  large  and  solid,  and 
the  liquor  full  bodied,  fragrant  and  aromatic; 
when  aged  it  develops  a  very  rich  dark  brown 
color.  Tills  is  a  good  individual  drinker,  and  as 
a  blender  follows  Mochas,  Harrars  and  Javas  very 
closely,  and  is  frequently  used  (when  well  aged) 
very  successfully  in  blends  as  a  substitute  for 
Java. 

Bogota  is  a  mountain  grown  Coffee,  the  bean 
large,  uniform  and  bluish-green,  and  the  liquor 
full-bodied,  round  and  fragrant.  It  is  the  basis 
of  a  great  number  of  high-grade  blends.  They 
roast  evenly  and  have  a  handsome  color.  When 
green  many  of  them  are  rather  rough  in  appear- 
ance, but  with  all  a  very  high  individual  type. 

Medellln  and  Manizales  are,  in  the  best  grades, 
also  very  highly  considered. 

Other  lesser  types  are  Canca,  Ocana,  etc.  Ocana 
is  a  town  situated  in  a  province  of  the  same  name 
in  Colombia,  South  America.  Coffee  from  this 
province  was,  and  still  is,  to  a  limited  extent, 
classed  as  Maracaibo  Coffee,  but  is  decidedly  in- 
ferior in  appearance,  roast  and  drink,  and  is  used 
principally  as  a  filler. 

Manizales  Coffees  are  so  called  from  the  town 
of  that  name,  located  in  Colombia,  South  Ameri- 
ca, near  Medellin,  from  which  certain  varieties  of 
Colombian  or  Bogota  Coffees  are  shipped. 

Fantassia  Coffee  is  "Excelso"  and  "Extra"  com- 
bined, or  before  they  are  separated  or  graded. 

Exoelso  is  a  fancy  Coffee  from  any  Colombian 
Coffee  district,  and  is  composed  of  the  large  hand- 
some beans. 

Extra  is  the  smaller  beans.  In  other  words, 
Fantassia  separated  produces  the  two  last  named 
-types. 

Medellin,  Capital  City  of  Antioquia,  Colombia, 
South  America,  and  a  name  given  to  the  finest 
growths  of  Colombian  Coffees.    This  iCoffee  comes 

34 


from  the  mountainous  regions,  and  is  given  the 
preference  over  all  other  Colombian  Coffees,  with 
the  possible  exception  of  the  Old  Bucaramangas. 
Antioquia.  OMame  applied  to  a  high  grade  Cof- 
fee grown  in  Colombia,  South  America.  What  is 
known  in  the  United  States  as  "Medellin"  is  in 
reality  Antioquia  Coffee,  and  is  very  typey. 


VENEZUELA:   MARACAIBO,  LA  GUAIRA 

The  two  best  types  of  Venezuela  Coffee  are 
Maracaibo  and  La  Guaira. 

Maracaibos  are  divided  into  several  varieties, 
among  them  Cucuta,  Merida,  Bocono,  Tovar  and 
Trujillo  (the  lowest)  graded  as  washed  (the  best) 
prime  to  choice,  fair  to  good,  ordinary,  etc. 

Both  the  Cucuta  and  the  Merida  in  good  season, 
often  equal  the  finest  Coffees  grown  anywhere. 
The  beans  are,  large,  round  and  solid,  rich  yellow 
in  appearance  and  make  a  fine  rich  liquor  of  full 
ripe  flavor. 

The  Maracaibo  district  is  in  Venezuela,  South 
America,  and  is  situated  on  a  Bay  of  Lake  Mara- 
caibo. It  is  from  this  district  that  the  bulk  of 
Venezuelean  Coffees  are  shipped. 

The  Maracaibo  type  comes  from  the  mountain 
slopes  of  Merida,  Trujilloj  and  Tachira. 

Merida.  Coffee  named  from  a  town  in  Vene- 
zuela, located  near  Lake  Maracaibo.  This  is  the 
finest  growth  of  Venezuelean  (Maracaibo)  Coffee. 
This  Coffee  makes  a  good  roast  and  has  a  pecu- 
liarly delicate  flavor;  neither  winey  or  bitter,  and 
is  much  prized  by  experts. 

Bocono,  Tovar  and  Trujillo  Coffees  are  general- 
ly smaller  and  less  attractive  in  appearance,  and 
their  liquor  is  light,  but  they  are  useful  for  blend- 
ing, as  their  flavor  is  usually  pleasant.  These 
Coffees  blend  well  with  Bourbon  Santos. 

La  Guaira  Coffees  are  best  known  by  the  Cara- 
cas, Porto  Cabello  and  Coro  types.     Choice  "wash- 

35 


ed"  Caracas  is  exceptionally^  fine  Coffee;  rich, 
heavy  and  fragrant;  the  bean  is  large  and  bluish. 
Caracas  is  the  Capital  of  Venezuela. 

'*Mild"  Caracas  makes  only  a  fair  liquor.  The 
bean  is  yellowish  and  medium  size. 

Porto  Cabello  and  Coro  Coffees  also  largely  con- 
sumed, vary  in  the  bean  from  medium  to  small, 
and  from  dark  to  pale  green.  They  are  classed  as 
Mild  Coffee,  but  their  liquor  develops  good 
strength  as  well  as  flavor. 

It  has  been  said  by  some  that  much  of  the  two 
types  just  mentioned  hardly  compares  favorably 
with  Santos  Coffee.  In  the  writer's  opinion  it  at 
least  takes  a  splendid  Santos  to  compare  favora- 
bly with  them. 

Among  other  varieties  largely  exported  are 
Carupano  and  Angostura. 

All  of  the  Maracaibo  types  are  good  blenders; 
the  higher  types  for  body  and  rich  full  flavor,  the 
lesser  types  add  tone  and  flavor  to  many  other 
Coffees. 


CENTRAL    AMERICA 
Guatemala,   Costa    Rica,    Salvador 

The  finest  Central  American  Coffee  is  generally 
that  from  Guatemala,  a  Republic  on  the  Pacific 
Coast,  where  cultivation  is  conducted  on  most 
modern  lines.  The  best  type  of  Guatemala  Coffee 
is  the  Coban,  a  large  shapely  blue  bean,  producing 
a  fine  aromatic  liquor;  a  type  that  drinks  well 
alone,  and  makes  a  fine  blender  for  either  lighter 
or  heavier  types. 

Coban  Coffees  grow  in  a  mountainous  region, 
near  the  town  of  Coban,  and  is  usually  transported 
on  mule  back  over  the  mountain  passes,  and  the 
bags  are  frequently  not  more  than  half  the  ordi- 
nary size. 

S6 


While  many  Guatemala  Coffees  have  more  style 
than  body,  there  are,  however,  many  of  them  of 
good  strength  and  rich  flavor,  and  the  Coffees  from 
the  Coban  district  rank  with  the  best  Coffees  in 
the  world. 

The  cultivation  of  Coffee  in  Guatemala  began 
shortly  after  the  middle  of  the  last  century.  To- 
day Coffee  is  the  most  important  product  of  Guate- 
mala. 

Prior  to  the  European  War  two-thirds  of  the 
production  went  to  Germany,  where  it  commanded 
high  prices.  Of  late,  however,  exports  to  the 
United  States  have  increased  considerably,  and 
Guatemala  Coffee  is  rapidly  growing  in  favor  in 
this  country. 


THE    COFFEE    PRODUCING    DISTRICTS 

As  is  the  case  with  most  producing  countries, 
some  districts  in  Guatemala  produce  more  desir- 
able Coffee  than  others.  Each  lot  must  be  tested 
on  its  own  merits.  The  Coban  district  produces  a 
Coffee  of  exceptional  merit,  grown  at  an  altitude 
of  from  3,500'  to  5,000  feet.  Coban  Coffees  rank 
among  the  finest  Coffees  in  the  world.  The  Coban 
crop  is  comparatively  small,  however.  Coffees 
from  the  Antigua  district  also  are  of  particularly 
high  grade.  Numerous  other  sections  produce  Cof- 
fees considerably  above  the  average.  Costa  Cuca 
is  the  most  productive  district. 

The  Coffee  growing  districts  of  Guatemala, 
named  in  the  order  of  their  production,  are  as 
follows:  Costa  Cuca,  Costa  Grande,  Barberena, 
Tumbador,  Cohan,  Costa  de  Cusho,  Chicacao, 
Holhnitz,  Pochuta  Malacatan,  San  Marcos,  Chuva, 
Escuintla  San  Vicente,  Pacaya,  Antigua,  Moran, 
Amatitlan,  Palmar  and  Motagua. 

37 


HOW  TO  USE  GUATEMALA  COFFEE 

Guatemala  Coffees  are  particularly  useful  for 
blending  purposes,  giving  satisfactory  character 
to  high  combinations.  Those  grown  in  the  higher 
altitudes  are  heavy  bodied,  winey  drinking  Coffees, 
and  blend  well  with  Javas,  Bourbon  Santos,  and 
Maracaibos.  The  Guatemalas  grown  in  the  lower 
altitudes  do  not  possess  the  same  heavy  bodied 
winey  drinking  qualities,  but  are  smoother,  and 
when  mixed  with  Bogotas  or  fine  Costa  Ricas,  not 
alone  materially  enhance  the  drinking  quality  but 
lend  a  pleasing  appearance  to  the  blend.  The  low- 
er grown  Coffees  should  be  roasted  a  light  cinna- 
mon color  for  best  results,  while  the  high  grown, 
hard  bean  Coffees  should  be  roasted  along  the 
same  lines  as  Bogota,  Coatepec  Mexicans,  or 
other  choice  Coffees  of  that  character. 

While  there  are  many  differences  of  opinion  as 
to  what  constitutes  the  most  desirable  Coffee  from 
the  viewpoint  of  the  consumer,  straight  Guate- 
mala Coffee  grown  in  the  medium  altitudes,  or, 
say,  from  3,000  to  4,000  feet  above  sea  level,  makes 
a  most  satisfactory  out-turn.  A  Roaster  in  the 
West,  who  had  a  small  retail  stand  in  a  market, 
and  who  sold  for  his  best  quality  only  straight 
Guatemala  Coffee,  met  (with  such  gratifying  re- 
sults that  he  gradually  enlarged  to  a  wholesale 
distribution,  with  the  result  that  today  he  is  using 
more  than  5,000  bags  yearly,  advertising  and  selling 
only  Guatemala  Coffee. 


CHARACTERISTICS  OF  GUATEMALA 
COFFEES 

Guatemala  leads,  in  Central  America,  in  produc- 
tion with  a  crop  averaging  750,000-  bags,  of  which, 
normally,  about  one-third}  comes  to  the  United 
States.  They  are  very  stylish  Coffees,  and  have 
waxy,  bluish  bean,  which,  in  roasting,  split  open 
with   white  centers.     This  enables  them  to  com- 

38 


mand  a  high  price,  especially  in  European  mar- 
kets, but  they  are  thin  in  body  and  are  used 
chiefly  for  their  style.  A  small  proportion  of  really 
meritorious  Coffees  are  (produced  in  the  mountain- 
ous districts  of  Coban  and  Antigua,  at  an  altitude 
of  from  3,50(>  to  5,00'0  feet.  The  Cobans  are  grown 
so  near  the  frost  line  that  they  often  contain 
many  frosted  and  blighted  beans,  to  the  detriment 
of  their  style,  but  they  have  a  fine,  winey  charac- 
ter, and  possess  body  so  heavy  that  it  borders  on 
bitterness.  They  are  especially  fine  for  blending. 
Less  than  2,500  bags  are  imported  annually.  It  has 
been  said  that  a  hundred  times  more  Cobans  are 
sold  than  are  produced.  The  Antiguas  are  small- 
ish, flinty  bean  Coffees,  from  a  district  about  a 
thousand  feet  lower.  They  are  not  so  heavy  in 
body  as  the  Cobans,  but  are  flavory  and  winey,  and 
find  favor  upon  the  Pacific  Coast,  where  some 
15,000  to  20,000  bags  are  received. 

Costa  Rica:  Perhaps  equally  as  important  is  the 
output  of  Costa  Rica,  the  most  Southern  of  the 
five  Central  American  Republics,  producing  one  of 
the  finest  Coffees  in  the  world.  (However,  the 
United  States  gets  so  little,  if  any,  of  the  high  type 
Costa  Rica  Coffees,  and  so  many  of  the  poorer 
types,  that  Costa  Rica  Coffee  is  not  overly  popular 
here.)  The  high  type  Costa  Rica  is  of  heavy  body 
and  sharply  winey,  and  are  best  adapted  for  ^blend- 
ing.  Europe  has  nearly  always  paid  a  premium 
on  these,  especially  the  larger  bean  Coffees. 

The  raiw  bean  averages  large  and  handsome,  and 
roasts  to  excellent  advantage;  however,  the  bulk 
of  the  best  grades  go  to  Europe  generally,  and 
many  shipments  of  the  lower  qualities  sent  to  the 
United  States  give  a  liquor  somewhat  bitter  or 
brackish,  and  not  very  desirable. 

About  the  .year  1720  the  first  Coffee  plants  were 
grown  by  the  French  Colonizers  in  the  Island  of 
Martinique.  From  there  they  distributed  seeds  to 
Jamaica  and  the  other  Islands  of  the  West  Indies 

39 


about  1725,  and,  to  Rio  de  Janeiro,  also  the  other 
Spanish  colonies  of  Central  and  South  America,  in 
1770. 

The  same  tree  produces  beans  of  different  shapes 
and  sizes,  constituting  four  grades,  namely:  Cara- 
cole (shell  shape),  first,  second,  and  third. 

The  proportion  is  approximately  5%  Caracole, 
25%  first,  45%  second,  and  25%  third. 

The  Caracole  is  so  called  (in  this  section)  be- 
cause the  bean  is  somewhat  the  shape  of  the  small 
shell  (Spanish  Caracol  snail). 

The  European  War,  which  closed  the  German 
markets,  has  forced  Costa  Rica  to  look  for  new 
Coffee  customers,  and  its  product  is  again  becom- 
ing more  of  a  factor  in  the  North  American  mar- 
ket, where  an  intelligent  propaganda,  combined 
with  the  merits  of  the  article,  is  creating  a  greater 
consumer  demand  for  it. 

The  price  paid  for  the  better  grades  of  Costa 
Rica  Coffees  have  always  ranked  among  the  high- 
est paid  for  any  Central  American  Coffees. 

The  higher  tableland  (mesa  central)  of  Costa 
Rica  is  admirably  suited  in  the  way  of  soil  and 
climatic  conditions  for  the  production  of  a  high- 
grade  Coffee,  which  is  highly  prized  in  the  markets 
of  Europe,  especially  in  Great  Britain. 


COSTA    RICAS    UNSURPASSED     FOR 
BLENDING 

Costa  Rica's  production  of  200»,0'00'  bags  is  small- 
er than  it  was  a  half  century  ago.  The  fine  grades 
are  grown  in  the  districts  of  Cartago,  San  Jose, 
Alajuela  and  Grecia,  at  altitudes  of  from  4,000'  to 
6,000  feet.  These  are  characterized  by  their  rich 
body  and  fine  flavor,  and  are  often  so  sharply 
winey,  that  if  used  straight  would  sour  the  cream. 
For  blending,  the  Highland  Coffees  of  Costa  Rica 
are  surpassed  by  none  of  the  world's  growth,  but, 
unfortunately,    Europe    overbids    us    from    2    to    3 

40 


cents  per  pound,  so  that  the  30,000  bags  received 
in  the  United  States  are  mainly  the  small  bean 
separations  and  low  grades. 

The  Salvador  bean  is  generally  of  medium  size, 
and,  in  best}  grades,  is  well  developed,  heavy  and 
greyish  yellow;  the  liquor  is  just  fairly  strong, 
with  only  a  moderate  flavor. 

The  poorer  grades  are  very  uneven  and  broken, 
and!  the  liquor  weak.  The  better  grades  do  quite 
well  as  a  blender  with  the  heavier  Coffees,  say, 
with  a  Mexican,  Guatemalan,  or  like  types. 

The  land  in  Salvador  is  well  adapted  to  the 
growth  of  Coffee.  The  mountain  sides  and  high 
hills  give  the  exact  temperature  needed,  and  of 
late  years,  since  the  intelligent  use  of  fertilizers 
has  been  found  to  give  results,  well  repaying  the 
cost.  Old  plantations  that  were  producing  little 
before,  have  since  made  remarkable  strides  to  the 
fore. 


SALVADOR  COFFEE  MARKET  CHIEFLY  IN 
EUROPE 

The  Salvador  crop  of  SOOjOO-O  bags  is  mainly 
marketed  in  ©urope.  San  Francisco  receives  some 
SS.OO^O  bags,  which  are  consumed  on  the  Pacific 
Coast.  The  proportion  of  mountain  Coffees  is 
small,  and  those  that  are  washed  rule  about  % 
cent  below  Ouatemalas  of  equal  grade,  which 
growth  they  resemble.  The  crop  is  principally  the 
naturals,  which  are  large  bean  and  of  fair  average 
roast.  There  are  about  220,000  acres  of  Coffee 
trees  in  Salvador. 

Nicaragua  closely  resembles  the  medium  grades 
of  Salvador,  possibly  a  little  stronger,  at  least 
more  pungent.  Not  a  good  individual  drinker  but 
useful  in  building  around  rank  types,  e.  g.  not  bad 
with  Rios  or  even  Liberians,  and  prove  quite  a 
modifier. 

Honduras  produces  a  yellow,  heavy  bean  of  at- 

41 


tractive  appearance.  The  liquor  is  smooth  and 
pleasing,  but  rather  weak  and  frequently  marked 
with  a  cocoa  odor. 

Panama  has  not  yet  established  any  high  rec- 
ords, but  the  quality  of  the  product  has  been  con- 
siderably improved  in  recent  years. 

MEXICO 

Mexican  Coffee  is  roughly  divided  into  "washed" 
and  ''unwashed",  the  former  heing  the  choicer. 
All  green  Coffees  are  either  ** washed"  or  "natural" 
(unwashed)  so  you  may  know  that  a  "washed" 
Mexican  or  a  ''natural"  Nicaragua  means  just  that. 

Usually  "unwashed"  Coffees  show  a  dark  sper- 
modern  or  "silver  skin"  in  the  longitudinal  cleft 
or  center  of  the  flat  aide  of  the  bean  when  roasted. 
A  ''washed"  Coffee  generally  shows  a  clean,  light, 
bright  to  whitish  center. 

The  bulk  of  the  export  formerly  went  to  France, 
but  the  United  States  receipts  have  grown  largely 
in  recent  years. 

Mexican  Coffees  have  won  an  important  place 
with  the  American  trade,  both  on  account  of  the 
liberal  supply  and  because  the  highland  Coffees 
rank  with  the  best  produced  in  the  world.  They 
have  full,  rich  body  and  a  fine  winey  "bouquet"  or 
aroma  surpassed  by  none.  The  United  States  con- 
sumes more  than  a  third  of  the  annual  crop,  which 
reaches  nearly  400,000  bags.  This  production  is 
mainly  from  a  small  area  of  some  200  miles,  which 
is  situated  nearly  the  same  distance  inland  from 
Vera  Cruz.  About  10%  of  the  importation  are  the 
West  Francisco. 

COATEPEC    COFFEES   AMONiG    THE   WORLD'S 

BEST 

The  finest  Mexicans  are  produced  in  the  district 
of  Coatepec  (Co-at-e^pec),  at  an  altitude  of  from 
3,000  to  4,000  feet.  The  combination  of  climatic 
condition,  altitude  and  the  rich  volcanic  soil  gives 

42 


a  quality  which  places  these  in  the  front  rank 
with  the  world's  best  Coffees.  When  aged  for  a 
year  in  the  Mexican  climate,  their  wi ney  character 
is  tempered,  and  they  so  mellow  that  they  indeed 
become  perfectjon.  Unfortunately,  the  high  rate 
of  interest  prohibit  their  being  held  for  this  pur- 
pose, and,  ordinarily,  they  are  rushed  to  the  mar- 
ket as  soon  as  they  can  be  harvested  and  prepared 
for  shipment.  Many  other  Mexican  Coffees  are 
marketed  under  the  name  Coatepec. 

CORDOBA   COFFEES  ARE   BEAUTIFUL 
ROASTERS 

Some  fine  Coffees  are  raised  from  500  to  l,OOiO 
feet  lower  in  the  adjoining  districts  of  Jalapa 
(Ha-lap-pa).  The  district  of  chief  production  is 
Cordova,  which  is  on  the  southern  side  of  the  vol- 
cano. These  are  Tery  stylish  Coffees,  especially 
beautiful  roasters,  but  they  are  thini  in  body,  and 
do  not  compare  with  those  first  described.  The 
districts  of  Orizaba  and  Huatusco  (Wha-too-co) 
adjoin.  The  Coffees  from  the  former  resemble 
medium  grade  Cordobas.  Some  of  the  higher 
growths  in  the  latter  district  are  of  fair  cup 
quality. 

The  two  "fanciest"  commercial  types  of  Mexican 
beans  are  the  Coatepec  ("Tepic")  and  Caracolillo, 
the  latter  being  generally  known  as  "Mexican  Pea- 
berry." 

Coatepec  or  "Tepic",  formerly  known  as  "Mexi- 
can Mocha",  is  said  to  be  grown  from  a  later  in^ 
troduction  of  the  Arabian  shrub,  so  carefully  culti- 
vated that  some  judges  consider  the  product  fully 
equal  (?)  in  quality  to  that  of  the  parent  plant. 
The  bean  is  small,  hard  and  of  a  steel-blue  color, 
making  a  creamy,  aromatic  liquor.  Very  little  of 
this  variety  is  exported,  local  consumers  taking 
nearly  all  the  crop.  These  Coffees  are  really  most 
wonderful  when  you  get  the  best  washed  type. 
The  writer  in  many  instances  has  found  them  al- 
most identical  (with  good  Bogotas. 

43 


NATURAL  MEXICANS  LIMITED  TO   LOW 
GRADES 

Sierras  and  Tampicos  are  low  growth,  and, 
being  "woody",  are  used  for  low-grade  purposes. 
High-growth  'Coffees  improve  with  age,  while  in 
many  cases  low-growths  become  woody  and  punky. 
The  shipment  of  natural  Mexicans  has  fallen  off 
until  they  are  limited  to  the  cheaper  grades. 
Many  low-growths  are  "hidey",  due  to  the  ex- 
cessive fermentation  explained  in  the  preceding 
talk.  Occasionally  sour  beans  are  found  in  even 
fancy  Mexicans,  so  that  care  must  be  used  in 
selection.  The  fine  Mexicans  are  valuable  for 
adding  "meat"  and  richness  to  fancy  blends,  as 
well  as  flavor  and  their  winey  character. 

Caracolillo  is  a  variety  almost  unique.  As  al- 
ready noted,  "Pea-berries"  are  found  to  some  ex- 
tent in  all  Coffee  bean  crop,  but  the  shrubs  from 
which  the  Caracolillo  product  is  obtained  bear  it 
almost  exclusively. 

After  these  two  types,  rwhich  do  not  effect  the 
general  market,  come  Oaxaca,  Cordoba,  Coatepec, 
Co  lima,  etc. 

The  Oaxaca  (War-har-kar)  bean  is  large  and 
well  developed,  blue  in  color  when  new,  but  be- 
coming whiter^  as  it  ages,  the  liquor  is  strong,  rich 
and  fragrant,  and  notwithstanding  the  high  trib- 
ute paid  the  Tepic  type,  the  Oaxaca  Coffees  are 
the  leading  Mexican  growth  and  the  sharpest, 
winey  flavor  of  all  other  Mexican  Coffees,  and  has 
good  body;  they  come  "washed"  and  "unwashed," 
the  former  being  termed  "Pluma,"  and  thei  latter 
being  known  simply  as  Oaxaca. 

Cordoba  is  sometimes  styled  "Mexican  Jack". 
The  bean  is  large  and  yellow,  and  the  liquor  is 
rich  and  full,  resembling  a  fine  Maracaibo  or  a 
medium  "Java." 

The  Coatepec  bean  is  large,  well  developed  and 
more  winey  than  most  types. 

44 


Colima  is  a  medium  sized  bean,  flat,,  fairly  well 
developed,  and  with  liquor  pleasing  in  flavor  and 
moderately  rich. 

Small  quantities  come  also  from  Tuxpam,  and 
several  lowland  districts,  but  the  quality  is  usually 
inferior. 

Taken  as  a  whole,  Mexican  Coffees  are  very  fine 
Coffees,  particularly  useful  in  blending. 

JAVA  AND  OTHER  DUTCH  EAST  INDIAN 
ISLANDS 

The  Dutch  East  Indies,  especially  the  Islands  of 
Java,  Sumatra  and  Celebes,  are  famous  as  the 
largest  exporters  of  fine  Coffees.  They  are  best 
known  to  the  lay  public  by  the  name  of  the  Island 
of  Java,  the  most  populous  of  the  group  and  the 
central  point  of  Dutch  commercial  activity,  but 
the  greater  part  of  the  East  Indian  Coffee  con- 
sumed in  the  United  States  is  of  Sumatra  growth. 
That  from  Celebes  is  generally  rated  the  highest 
in  European  markets. 

Other  countries  produce  in  certain  sections, 
beans  as  choice  as  the  very  best  "Java",  but  the 
quantities  they  can  export  are  comparatively  un- 
important. 

The  greater  output  of  the  Dutch  East  Indies  is 
partly  due  to  the  natural  adaptability  of  soil  and 
climate,  and  partly  to  the  systematic  cultivation  by 
native  inhabitants  under  the  rule  of  Holland.  In 
spite  of  governmental  care,  there  is,  however, 
much  variation  in  the  'beans  grown;  a  consider- 
able quantity  of  those  exported  do  not  deserve  the 
reputation  the  "Javas"  have  earned. 

Only  Coffees  grown  on  the  Island  of  Java  can  be 
labeled  Java  in  the  United  States. 

Java  Coffee  was  originally  of  the  Coffee  Arabica 
variety,  but  now  the  Liberian  and  Robusta  varie- 
ties are  also  grown  on  the  Island.  The  Java  bean 
takes  on  a  rusty  brown  color  as  it  ages;  it  also 
becomes  more  mellow  and  flavory.    However,  this 

45 


last  may  be  said  of  practically  all  Coffees.  A 
bluish-green  is  the  original  fresh  color  of  Javas. 
The  bear;  is  large,  full,  well  formed,  and  are 
classed  among  the  very  fbest  individual  drinkers, 
and  very  superior  blenders. 

East  Indian  Coffees  are  in  this  country  princi- 
pally graded  by  color — '*Brown",  "Yellow^'  and 
"Pale";  the  darker  beans  bringing  the  higher 
price. 

This  discrimination  was  originally  founded  on 
the  fact  that  some  of  the  choicest  varieties  of 
"Java"  beans  become  at  the  same  time  browner 
in  color  and  more  mellow  and  pleasing  in  flavor, 
in  storage  and  transport,  being  in  the  former  re- 
spect entirely  unique. 

The  distinction  is  not  fundamentally  accurate, 
as  some  of  the  light  bean  varieties  are  better  than 
many  of  the  dark  types.  In  Europe  the  yellow 
colored  beans  are  preferred.  When  fresh,  all  East 
Indian  Coffees  are  light  sea-green,  or  blue-green. 

Dutch  East  Indian  Coffees,  other  than  those 
grown  on  the  Island  of  Java  itself,  are  now  gener- 
ally described  in  trade  and  government  circles  as 
Dutch  East  Indian,  or  by  trade  titles,  or  by  dis- 
tricts, as,  Ankola,  Padang,  Mandheling,  Corinche, 
Timor,  Kroe,  etc.  The  title  "Government"  is 
sometimes  applied  as  a  distinguishing  title  to  Cof- 
fee produced  on  plantations  operated  under  gov- 
ernment supervision,  as  are  all  old  and  many  of 
the  new  plantations. 

The  title  "Old  Government  Java"  was  at  one 
time  a  name  to  conjure  with,  for,  as  first  employed, 
it  applied  to  beans  that  had  been  held,  sometimes 
for  considerable  periods,  in  the  government  store- 
houses. Until  a  few  years  ago,  nearly  all  the 
produce  of  the  Dutch  East  Indies  was  sold  by 
quarterly  Government  auction,  and  any  goods  for 
which  the  upset  price  was  not  bid,  were  held  in 
the  warehouses"  to  await  an  improvement  in  mar- 
ket demands,  the  result  being  in  many  cases  an 
Improvement  also  in  the  Coffees,  Spices,  etc.,  by 

46 


the  opportunity  thus^  given  them  to  mature  under 
the  best  possible  condition,  The  term  long  ago, 
though,  deteriorated  into  a  practically  meaning- 
less trade  title  from  being  applied  indiscrimi- 
nately to  any  brown  East  Indian  'Coffee,  irrespect- 
tive  of  growth  or  quality,  and  it  is  now  "out  of 
date",  as  the  government  auctions  were  discon- 
tinued in  June,  1909,  present  sales  being  by  con- 
tracts with  firms  or  individuals. 

'^Plantation"  or  "private  growth"  Coffees  are 
those  raised  on  plantations  owned  and  operated 
by  individuals  in  contra-distinction  to  those  under 
government  supervision.  Some  are  of  very  high 
quality. 

"Blue-beam  Java"  is  a  title  occasionally  applied 
to  W.  I.  P.  or  "washed"  East  Indian. 

''Liberian  Java"  (often  called  "African  Java") 
is  that  grown  from  shrubs  of  Liberian  species. 
Its  quality  is  usually  inferior  to  the  Arabian  bean 
varieties;  it  seems  unnecessary  to  say  this,  how- 
ever, if  one  stops  to  compare  the  two  original 
types,  Arabian  and  Liberian.  The  former  the 
classiest  Coffee,  known  for  excellent  flavor;  the 
latter  of  the  most  pronounced  characteristic,  of 
such  unusual  strength  and  distinctiveness  as  to 
closely  approach   rankness. 

Padang  Coffees  get  their  name  from  the  princi- 
pal shipping  port  of  the  Island  of  Sumatra,  on 
Sumatra's  West  Coast,  which  was  at  one  time-  the 
center  of  the  Dutch  Government's  Coffee  trade. 
Many  Coffees  produced  on  the  Island  come  from 
this  port,  and  are  often  called  Padang.  Among 
them,  called  by  their  district  names,  are:  Boekit 
Gompong,  Painam,  Interior,  Ayer-Bangies,  Ankola, 
Mandheling,  Soerian,  Loeboe,  Rayamerapi  and 
Samarang. 

Mend  he  ling  Coffee  gets  its  name  from  the 
Mandheling  district  of  Sumatra's!  West  Coast. 
This  Coffee  commands  the  highest  price  of  any 
in  the  world  (Mocha  possibly  excepted),  and  many 
authorities  consider  it  the  very  finest  grown.     It 

47 


is  bought  and  sold  even  in  the  United  States  as 
"Mandheling  Java".  This  is  a  misnomer,  for  it 
is  strictly  a  Sumatra  and  not  a  Java,  according 
to  our  standards,  that  is,  Java  Coffee  must  come 
from  the  Island  of  Java. 

Corinche:  One  of  the  fine  grades  of  Dutch 
East  Indian  Coffees,  securing  its  name  from  the 
town  of  Corinche,  is  Southwest  Sumatra,  South- 
east of  Padang. 

Timor:  A  comparatively  small  amount  of  this 
Coffee  is  grown  on  the  Timor  Island  of  the  Timor 
Archipelago  East  of  the  Sumba  Islands  and  North 
of  Australia.    This  is  a  good  quality  Coffee. 


SUMATRAS    SUPERIOR   TO   JAVAS 

As  a  matter  of  fact,  the  true  Java  does  not  com- 
pare even  favorably  with  Sumatras  in  quality, 
with  the  exception  of  the  choicest.  Javas  are 
grassy,  greenish,  brashy  and  thin  liquored.  Their 
principal  value  consists  in  the  fact  that  they  are 
Javas.  Javas  give  the  largest  production,  but 
these  are  not  the  really  fine  Coffees.  The  famous 
Mandheling  and  Ankola  districts  are  located  in 
Sumatra,  also  the  districts  of  Corinche,  Padang 
and  Kroe.  The  Ayer-Bangies,  Palembangs  and 
Boengies  are  hardly  note-worthy,  as  the  supply 
has  become  limited. 

The  prime  value  of  East  Indies  Coffees  is  in 
their  smooth,  heavy  body:  the  fancies  possessing 
an  almost  syrupy  richness.  Their  characteristics 
are  found  to  quite  an  extent  in  choice  old  Bucara- 
mangas,  and  occasionally  in  certain  fancy  old 
Maracaibos.  These  are  frequently  used  as  substi- 
tutes, or  in  conjunction  with  East  Indian  Coffees, 
both  because  they  reach  the  mark  and  reduce  the 
cost. 

Sumatra  Coffee  is  produced  on  the  island  of 
that  name  in  the  Dutch  East  Indies.  It  comprises 
the  principal  part  of  the  production  in  the  Islands, 
and,  in  fact,  is  the  finest  of  these  growths. 

48 


Ankola  Coffee  is  produced  in  the  Ankola  dis- 
trict in  the  Island  of  Sumatra,  and  is  considered 
one  of  the  finest  Coffees  grown.  It  has  a  very 
heavy  body  and  delicate,  rich  flavor.  Ankolas  are 
classed  close  to  Mandhellngs,  and,  although  not 
so  heavy  in  body,  their  characteristics  are  simi- 
lar. They  are  sometimes  given  the  preference 
because  of  their  large,  regular  bean  and  fine  roast- 
ing qualities.  Corinches,  which  are  now  receiv- 
ed in  limited  quantity,  are  often  used  in  place  of 
Ankolas,  which  Coffees  they  closely  resemble. 
They  range  from  1  to  2  cents  under  Ankolas  in 
price.  Padang  is  Sumatra's  chief  seaport,  and 
this  name  is  sometimes  applied  to  Mandhelings, 
Ankolas,  Corinches  and  interiors. 

Kroe:  A  medium  grade  East  India  Coffee 
grown  in  the  district  of  the  same  name,  and  is 
shipped  from  Port  Kroe  on  the  Southwest  Coast 
of  the  Island  of  Sumatra. 

KROES  ARE  GOOD  ROASTERS  AND 
BLENDERS 

The  Coffees  from  the  Island  of  Timor  are  class- 
ed below  Padangs,  heing  inferior  in  bean  and 
style.  Kroes  are  better  known  and  more  widely 
used  because  of  their  liberal  supply,  which  also 
influences  their  price.  They  are  good  roasters 
and  blenders,  usually  quite  uniform  in  bean. 

Samarang  Coffee  is  generally  a  yellowish-green 
color  in  the  bean,  and  light  and  thin  in  cup  quali- 
ty. Grown  on  the  North  Coast  of  the  Island  of 
Java  and  is  named  after  a  Seaport  town. 


ROBUSTA  COFFEE 

Coffee  Laurentii  or  Robusta  Coffee  is  a  species 
discovered  growing  wild  in  the  Congo  by  'Emil 
Laurent.  A  Brussels  horticultural  firm  took  it  up, 
commercially  designated  it  Robusta.  It  is  now 
being  extensively  cultivated  in  Java  and  is  some- 

49 


times  called  Robusta  Java.  This  Coffee  is  in  the 
experimental  stage,  and  has  very  little  merit  in 
the  cup,  excepting  a  type  well  aged  and  brought 
to  a  dark  chocolate  roast;  even  then  the  liquor 
is  light,  with  little  or  no  flavor,  but  it  is  particu- 
larly clean  and  freef  from  imperfections,  therefore 
grading  high;  it  is  practically  neutral  and  is  used 
considerably  as  a  filler.  Much  attention  has  been 
Siven  this  Coffee  because  its  tree  is  a  more  hardy 
variety  than  most  other  Coffee  trees. 

The  Coffee  Exchange  of  the  City  of  New  York 
prohibited  the  delivery  of  this  growth  of  Coffee 
on   Exchange  contracts  after  March  1,  1913. 

Batavia  is  the  Capital  of  the  Dutch  East  Indian 
Colony  of  Java,  and  is  the  principal  market  for 
Coffee  grown  in  that  Island.  The  port  of  Batavia 
is  Tandjorvg,  Priok. 

ARABIA— MOCHA 

Mocha,  a  former  important  Coffee  port  on  the 
Red  Sea,  Arabia.  All  the  Coffee  produced  in 
Arabia  is  known  by  the  name  "Mocha,"  though 
no  Coffee  was  ever  grown  in  Mocha,  which  is  only 
a  shipping  town  surrounded  by  deserts,  and  not 
today  even  an  important  shipping  point,  as  the 
opening  of  the  iSuez  Canal  transferred  nearly  all 
the  traffic  to  the  ports  of  Aden  and  Hodeida. 
The  Port  of  Mocha  was  closed  by  a  sand  bar  near- 
ly a  hundred  years  ago,  and  Coffee  has  since  been 
^shipped  by  the  way  of  Aden. 

The  plantations  are  located  in  the  interior  of 
the  Yemen  district,  with  Sana  as  the  center  of 
cultivation.  Right  at  this  point  is  where  the  fin- 
est Arabian  Coffee  is  grown,  but  it  is  never  ex- 
ported. The  methods  of  cultivation,  harvesting 
and  curing  are  most  primitive.  The  'berries  are 
not  picked  as  in  other  countries,  hut  are  permit- 
ted to  ripen  on  the  trees,  after  which  they  fall 
naturally  and  are  allowed  to  dry  in  the  cherry. 

50 


THE    FOUR   GRADES  OF   MOCHA 

There  are  four  grades  of  Mocha,  viz:  Grade 
No.  1,  which  contains  only  perfect  berries  and  is 
absolutely  free  from  dust.  Grade  No.  1-A,  con- 
taining perfect  berries  but  in  which  a  little  dust 
may  be  found.  Grade  No.  2,  containing  some 
broken  Coffee!  and  "quakers,"  and  Grade  No.  3,  in 
which  may  be  found  a  much  lieavier  percentage 
of  both  "broken"  and  "quakers,"  as  well  as  some 
dust* 

The  Coffee  is  packed  in  fiher  hundles  or  "bales," 
weighing  about  160  pounds  each.  Two  or  four 
pockets  to  every  bale. 

Mocha  beans  are  exceedingly  small,  hard  and 
round,  irregular  in  form  and  size,  olive  green  in 
color,  shading  off  to  pale  yellow. 


PECULIAR    CHARACTERISTICS    OF    MOCHA 
COFFEE 

Mocha  Coffee  has  a  peculiar  winey  character, 
found  in  no  other  Coffee,  and  a  heavy  body.  The 
roast  is  poor  and  irregular,  showing  up.  a  large 
quantity  of  "quakers,"  particularly  in  the  lowest 
grades.  The  "quakers"  apparently  do  not  mate- 
rially affect  the  cup  character.  It  is  a  particularly 
good  Coffee  to  use  in  blending  on  account  of  its 
winey  character.  The  best  known  blends  are 
those  made  in  combination  with  various  growths 
of  the  Dutch  East  Indies,  but  the  Coffee  is  accept- 
able when  used  with  any  of  the  fancy  washed 
types.  As  a  straight  beverage  it  i«  found  pleasing, 
and  when  made  as  a  heavy  after-dinner  Coffee  is 
especially  good. 

The  best  Arabian — and  the  true  "Mocha,"  is 
that  from  the  province  of  Yemen.  The  most  sur- 
prising point  in  connection  with  its  cultivation  is 
that  though  the  Coffee  shrub  requires  in  other 
countries  rich  soil  and  favora:ble  conditions  to 
produce  an  acceptable  crop,  here  in  Arabia,  some 

51 


of  the  choicest  Coffee  in  the  world  comes  from 
stunted  shrubs  growing  in  hot,  sandy,  stony  moun- 
tainside gardens.  All  conditions,  climate  and  soil 
seem  to  be  against  the  shrubs  best  growth,  but  by 
the  way  of  recompense  it  receives  the  most  care- 
ful and  painstaking  human  attention  The  gar- 
dens are  arranged  on  rocky  terraces,  one  above 
the  other,  and  are  Irrigated  from  large  reservoirs 
of  spring  water  placed  above  the  highest. 

There  are  two  main  crops  during  the  year.  Tht* 
berries,  instead  of  being  picked,  are  allowed  to 
ripen  until  they  fall.  They  are  then  carefully 
gathered  up,  dried,  hulled  and  cleaned  with  scrup- 
ulous exactness.  The  separation  of  the  finest 
"Mocha"  beans  hy  growers  and  merchants  is  in 
itself  a  study  of  infinite  detail;  they  are  assorted 
into  a  perfect  graduation  of  sizes  and  qualities. 

The  true  Yemen  "Mocha"  bean  is  very  small, 
hard  and  round,  regular  in,  size  in  the  best  quali- 
ties: Olive-green  when  new  and  a  rich  semi- 
transparent  yellowish  when  aged.  Its  odor  when 
fresh  roasted  is  characteristic,  and  the  liquor  is 
creamy,  rich,  rather  heavy,  a  little  wl ney  and  ex- 
tremely aromatic  and  fragrant. 

"Tehama"'  Arabian  Coffee — that  from  the  prov- 
ince of  Tehama,  is  distinctly  Inferior  to  Yemen. 
The  bean  is  about  the  same  size,  but  it  is  imma- 
ture in  appearance  and  often  mixed  with  frag- 
ments of  hull,  etc.,  its  f  I  avoir  is  quite  second  rate 
when  drunk  alone,  unless  used!  as  an  extra  heavy 
after-dinner  Coffee,  but  it  imparts  a  pleasing  fra- 
grance and  delicacy  iwhen  blended  with  a  good 
*'Java,"  etc. 

Abyssinian  Coffee  from  the  vicinity  of  Harrar 
and  properly  called  "Harrar  Coffee"  was  formerly 
shipped  via  Aden  as  long-berry  "Mocha."  It  is  of 
of  the  same  color  as  the  real  "Mocha,"  but  is  long- 
er and  more  pointed,  and  has  a  rank  leathery 
odor.  Harrar  is  the  Capital  and  trade  center  of 
the  District  of  Harrar  in  Southeastern  Abyssinia, 
an  Italian  Protectorate,  6,000  feet  above  sea  level. 

52 


This  is  the  town  from  which  long-berry  Harrar 
Coffee  (sometimes  termed  Abyssinian  or  Long- 
berry  iViocha)  is  shipped,  also  Abyssinian  Coffee 
grown  in  the  neighborhood  of  Ad  is  Abeba. 


LONG-BERRY  HARRAR 

This  Coffee  is  classified  in  two  varieties,  Harrar 
and  Abyssinian. 

Harrar  Coffee  is  grown  principally  in  the  Prov- 
ince of  Harrar,  near  the  City  of  the  same  name. 
This  Coffee  has  a  larger  bean  than  Arabian  Mo- 
cha, but  is  quite  similar  in  appearance.  In  color 
it  is  a  blue  green,  shading  to  yellow.  The  Coffee 
Is  usually  graded  as  No.  1  or  No.  2,  depending 
upon  the  size  and  color  of  the  bean. 

From  the  City  of  Harrar  the  Coffee  is  trans- 
ported on  mules  to  Dire-Daoua,  and  from  there 
forwarded  to  Djibouti.  It  is  then  taken  across  the 
Red  Sea  in  small  boats  to  the  English  port  of 
Aden,  whence  it  is  transshipped  to  all  parts  of 
the  world. 


ABYSSINIAN  COFFEE  GROWS  UNCULTIVATED 

The  other  variety  is  known  as  Abyssinian.  It 
grows  in  a  wild  state  in  the  province  west  of  Har- 
rar, principally  in  the  Kaffa  district,  around  Adis 
Abba  and  north  of  that  city.  The  trees  are  per- 
mitted to  grow  in  a  wild,  uncultivated  condition, 
the  fberries  being  picked  from  the  ground.  This 
Coffee  is  not  graded,  contains  many  imperfections 
and  is  of  a  dark-gray  color.  Little,  if  any,  of  this 
particular  type  reaches  this  country. 

Prior  to  the  passage  of  the  Food  and  Drugs 
Act,  Harrar  Coffee  was  known  as  Long- Berry  Mo- 
cha, to  distinguish  it  from  the  Arabian  Coffee, 
which,  as  a  rule,  is  a  shorter,  smaller  bean. 

The  Arabian  product,  to  which  had  been  given 
the  term  IViocha,  from  the  port  of  shipment,  heing, 

53 


as  a  rule,  superior  to  Harrar  Coffee,  the  latter  fin- 
ally assumed  the  title  Long-berry  Mocha,  thereby 
commanding  a  higher  price.  As  long  as  the  trade 
could  use  it  as  Mocha  Coffee  it  was'  in  fair  de- 
mand, for  the  reason  that  it  could  usually  be  se- 
cured at  a  cent  to  a  cent  and  a  half  below  the 
prevailing  price  of  the  genuine  Arabian  Mocha. 

In  the  cup  the  character  is  similar  to  the  Arab- 
ian product,  but  usually  not  as  delicate,  although 
at  times  shipments  of  Harrar  Coffee  have  heen 
received  that  have  been  found  to  be  superior  to 
some  of  the  Mocha  Coffee  on  the  market. 

Since  the  passage  of  the  Food  and  Drugs  Act, 
the  demand  for  Harrar  Coffee  has  decreased,  ow- 
ing to  the  fact  that  it  cannot  be  offered  to  the 
trade  in  combination  with  Java  and  a  blend  of 
Java  and  Mocha. 

Genuine  "Mocha"  is  sometimes  called  "short- 
berry"  "Mocha";  this  is  really  superfluous,  as 
there  is  no  other  kind  of  Mocha  Coffee,  while 
most  insignificant  in  appearance  it  is  considered 
the  finest  type  of  Coffee  known.  It  is  most  ex- 
cellent in  blends,  and  used  almost  entirely  for 
this  purpose.  Its  great  richness  and  its  extreme 
aromatic  flavor  renders  it  more  suitable  as  a 
blender  than  an  Individual  drinker. 

SananI  is  a  high  grade  short  berry  Arabian 
(Mocha)  Coffee,  coming  from  the  district  around 
Sana  Yemen. 


WEST  INDIAN   COFFEE 

The  West  Indian  Islands  iproduce  a  large  quan- 
tity of  excellent  Coffee,,  but  the  bulk  of  the  finest 
grades  is  exported  to  Europe,  as  bett*»r  prices  can 
generally  he  obtained  there  than  in  this  market. 
The  greater  part  of  the  supply  shipped  to  this 
country  comes  from  the  British  West  Indies,  prin- 
cipally from  Jamaica  and  Haiti,  with  small  quan- 
tities from  Santo  Domingo,  Cuba  a^<3  the  Dutch 
West  Indies. 

54 


The  best  Jamaica  Coffee,  known  as  "Blue  Moun- 
tain," is  a<  bean  of  fair  size,  attractive  in  appear- 
ance and  bluish  color,  making  a  full,  rich,  fragrant 
liquor.  It  is  sometimes  called  Blue  Mountain  Ja- 
maica and  grown  in  the  Jamaica  district.  But 
''Plain^Grown,"  the  variety  chiefly  imported,  is  a 
much  Inferior  grade.  The  bean,  large,  whitish, 
and  flat,  is  generally  "hully"  and  the  liquor  is 
strong  and  rather  rank  or  "grassy"  in  flavor.  It 
is  used  almost  exclusively  for  blending  with  beans 
of  other  varieties. 

Haitian  and  Santo  Domingo  beans  are  large,  flat 
and  whitish.  Their  appearance  is  spoiled  by 
crude  preparation,  which  leaves  ihf^vn  "huUy"  and 
includes  broken  beans,  stems,  etc.  Their  liquor 
is  not  unpleasant,  but  lacks  body,  in  fact  is  hard- 
ly considered  good. 

Santo  Domingo,  Capital  of  the  Dominican  Re- 
public on  the  Island  of  Haiti  and  lends  the  name 
Santo  Domingo  to  Coffee,  a  Coffee  as  a  rule  very 
carelessly  prepared,  hence  the  average  quality  is 
very  poor. 

The  best  Cuban  grades  come  from  the  Guanta- 
namo,  Alqulzar  and  Marcos  districts  and  the  Sier- 
ra Maestra  plantations.  The  beans  are  large  and 
whitish,  and  rather  rounded  on  the  flat  side.  They 
are  generally  good  cuppers. 

Porto  Rico  produces  very  fine  Coffee,  the  beans 
regular  and  well  formed,  usually  yellow  to  green- 
ish in  color  and  very  stylish.  The  best  of  this 
variety  "washed"  commands  a  good  premium  In 
European  markets,  and  the  bean  of  this  grade  is 
a  large  handsome  bluish-green,  and  a  very  stylish 
roaster. 

CEYLON    AND    INDIA 

Coffee-growing  in  Ceylon  reached  its  height  in 
1890;  since  then  its  production  has  steadily  de- 
clined, the  people  turning  their  attention  more 
extensively  to  tea  and  rubber. 

55 


There  are  several  distinct  varieties  of  Ceylon 
Coffees,  as  follows::  "Native",  grown  in  the  low- 
lands, a  large,  flat,  white  bean  of  inferior  cup  qual- 
ity. "Plantation",  the  product  of  carefully  culti- 
vated planations,  the  bean  large,  of  light-bluish  to 
a  greenish  tint,  well  developed  and  very  regular, 
giving  a  liquor  which  is  smooth,  rich  and  aromatic. 

"Liberian-Ceylon",  a  hybrid"  of  the  Liberian  spe- 
cies; the  bean  smaller  and  paler  than  the  parent 
variety,  and  the  liquor  less  strong,  producing  a 
smooth  cup  of  pleasing  flavor. 

"Ceylon-Mocha",  a  small  bean,  very  even  and 
uniform,  generally  obtained  by  separating  from 
the  regular  "plantation"  crop.  Both  in  appearance 
and  in  the  cup  it  resembles  the  genuine  ''Mocha". 

The  two  best-known  varieties  of  Indian  Coffees 
are  Malabar,  a  small,  hard  bean  of  most  excellent 
quality,  used  locally  largely  for  blending  and  for 
the  best  trade. 

"Mysore",  a  large,  bluish-green  bean,  roasting 
well  and  producing  a  rich,  strong  liquor,  resem- 
bling Java  quite  a  little. 


ECUADOR    (GUAYAQUILS) 

Coffees  from  Ecuador  are  generally  known  as 
Guayaquils,  from  the  port  of  that  name.  The 
beans  run  from  medium  to  large.  They  are  firmly 
uniform  in  appearance,  roast  well  and  give  off  a 
full,  aromatic  liquor.  The  United  States  gets  quite 
a  lot  of  Ecuador  Coffee. 


PHILIPPINES 

The  Coffee  plant  waas  introduced  into  the  Philip- 
pine Islands  by  the  Spanish  missionaries  from 
Java,  about  1740.  It  was  produced  there  for  ex- 
port for  many  years,  but  the  plant  has  been  nearly 
exterminated  by  various  pests  and  insects,  and  the 
crop  is  not  so  large  nor  so  good  as  it  once  was. 

56 


The  Coffee  industry  is  improving  through  im- 
proved cultivation  and  more  proper  handling,  and 
it  is  only  a  question  of  time  when  that  country 
will  fill  an  important  position  in  the  Coffee  world, 
the  Soil  and  climatic  conditions  being  admirably 
suited  to  Coffee  culture. 

In  spite  of  very  inferior  preparation  and  scanty 
attention,  the  better  grades  are  held  in  high  esteem 
in  the  European  markets,  being  recognized  as  very 
rich  and  flavory  types. 

The  beans  are  generally  classed  as  Luzon,  Ma- 
nila and  Zamboanga,  the  two  latter  from  shipping 
ports,  the  former  from  the  Luzon  district. 

Luzon  is  a  small  bean,  hard  and  attractive  when 
properly  cleaned  and  prepared  (which  is  seldom), 
and  ranks  high. 

The  Manila  bean  is  medium  size,  regular  in 
shape,  and  pale  green  in  color,  with  fine  aromatic 
liquor.  It  comes  principally  from  the  districts  of 
Cavlte,  Batangas,  La  Laguna  and  the  immediate 
vicinity. 

Zamboanga,  from  the  Southern  Islands,  is  the 
poorest  grade.  The  beans  are  large,  yellowish  and 
rather  flabby,  the  liquor  is  coarse,  brackish  and 
weak, 

HAWAII 

The  Konos  are  perhaps  the  best  Hawaiian  pro- 
duction in  Coffees.  Kono  Coffee  beans  are  me- 
dium to  large,  well  formed,  stylish  lookers,  good 
healthy  green,  fine  attractive  roasters,  rich,  very 
flavory  and  of  good  strength;  excellent  blenders; 
classy  cuppers. 

The  Coffee  plant  is  cultivated  in  many  of  the 
Pacific  Islands:  the  Islands  of  Guinea,  Fiji,  the 
Friendly  and  Samoan  groups. 

In  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  the  production  has 
reached  considerable  proportions,  the  production 
being  of  a  very  classy  character^  as  a  rule. 

^■57 


OTHER  COUNTRIES 

In  addition  to  the  countries  previously  men- 
tioned, there  are  a  number  of  other  countries 
which  would  help  materially  in  raising  the  total 
production.  Some  of  these  are  fine  quality  and 
good  types,  but  the  imports  into  the  United  States 
are  not  sufficient  in  volume  to  affect  the  market 
conditions. 

Green  Coffee  is  received  in  the  United  States  in 
bags,  mats  and  bales.  Bags  from  Brazil  usually 
weigh  about  135  pounds.  Bags  from  other  coun- 
tries weigh  more  as  a  rule,  sometimes  weighing 
more  than  20O  pounds,  particularly  Liberian  Cof- 
fee. Ordinarily,  however,  a  bag  of  Coffee  will 
rarely  weigh  more  than  150  pounds.  All  countries 
ship  their  green  coffee  in  bags,  excepting  Arabia, 
which  produces  only  Mocha  and  that  is  shipped  in 
bales  weighing  usually  160  pounds  net.  Each  bale 
contains  either  two>  or  four  "pockets"  of  Coffee. 
Mats  or  fibre  bags  are  used  in  the  shipment  of 
Kroes  and  other  East  Indian  Coffees;  however,  all 
Coffee,  excepting  Mocha,  is  almost  universally 
shipped  in  bags.  Mats  are  similar  to  bales,  only 
they  usually  have  two  pockets  to  the  bag,  and  the 
mat  rarely  ever  holds  more  than  60  pounds,  while 
the  Mocha  balei  holds  160  pounds. 

Caffeine:  The  stimulating  principle  of  Coffee. 
It  is  chemically  identical  to  the  theine  of  Tea,  Cola, 
etc. 


58 


COFFEE  IMPORTS,  PRICE  AND  CONSUMPTION 
Five  Year  Averages — 1851-1914 


Per 

Import 

Capita 

. Net  Irr 

Price 

Con- 

Quantity 

Value 

per  Lb. 

sumption 

Period 

Pounds 

Dollars 

Cents 

Pounds 

1851-55. . . 

.     168,200,000 

13,800,000 

8.24 

6.57 

1856-60... 

.     208,700,000 

19,900,000 

9.60 

7.03 

1861-65... 

.     115,500.000 

12,500,000 

10.70 

3.48 

1866-70... 

.     214,500,000 

22,200,000 

10.44 

5.78 

1871-75... 

.     297,500,000 

42,900,000 

14.52 

7.14 

1876-80... 

.     350,500,000 

52,300,000 

15.14 

7.34 

1881-85... 

.     477,000,000 

44,700,000 

9.64 

8.86 

1886-90. . . 

.     499,500,000 

60,200,000 

12.26 

8.33 

1891-95... 

.     576,400,000 

96,700,000 

16.82 

8.72 

1896-00... 

.     739,800,000 

65,400,000 

'9.28 

10.10 

1901-05... 

.     943.000,000 

66,200,000 

7.10 

11.65 

1906-10... 

,.     916,300,000 

72,100,000 

7.90 

10.30 

1911-14... 

,  .     900,400,000 

108,600,000 

12.12 

9.35 

AN    EMINENT   PHYSICIAN    SAYS. 

Coffee  is  a  food,  a  whip,  a  fertilizer,  a  heat- 
maker,  a  true  stimulant  and  thirst-quencher. 

Roasted  Coffee  in  bulk  contains  little,  or  no 
moisture,  but  over  13 %5  of  fat  and  oil.  About  2% 
of  sweet  stuff,  such  as  sugar  and  dextrin  are  in  it, 
asl  well  as  50%  of  pulp  and  pitch.  About  5%  of 
mineral  fertilizer  is  present  and  nearly  1%  of  the 
powerful  stimulant.  Caffeine. 

Albumen  is  the  real  food  in  Coffee,  and  it  occurs 
in  quantities  as  large  as  12%. 

Of  course,  a  cup  of  Coffee  has  a  lot  of  water  in 
addition  to  the  other  constituents,  but  this,  to- 
gether with  the  heat,  makes  Coffee  all  the  more 
easily  digested. 

Other  than  the  oils,  fats,  albumens,  caramel, 
sugar  and  sweets  in  Coffee,  its  intrinsic  distinction 
is  the  wonderful  alkaloid.  Caffeine.  This  strange 
drug  in  one-grain  doses  adds  to  human  endurance, 
inuscular  exertion,  mental  efficiency  and  physiolog- 
ical effort  in  a  most  extraordinary  way. 

'In  all  our  private  and  hospital  experience,  we 
have  never  encountered  an  instance  in  which  dys- 
pepsia, nervousness,  or  any  other  ailment  was  rea- 
sonably attributable  to  the  moderate  and  habitual 
use  of  Coffee  as  a  beverage.    It  is  true  that  hun- 

59 


dreds  of  mortals  deny  themselves  this  boon,  be- 
cause of  some  fancied  or  educated  fear  that  it 
isn't  good  for  them.  But  we  are  speaking  of  facts 
now,  and  not  popular  delusions.  A  good  many 
nervous  and  sickly  people  would  be  better  off  if 
they  would  take  a  cup  of  Coffee — good  Coffee — for 
breakfast." 

WHEN   COFFEE  IS  A   FOOD  DRINK 

Coffee,  as  the  analysis  will  show,  might  be  re- 
garded as  a  fairly  nourishing  food,  if  taken  directly 
with  very  little  water,  but  since  the  drink  is 
usually  prepared  by  making  an  infusion  of  about 
two  ounces  to  a  pint  of  water,  it  will  be  seen  that 
Coffee  itself  has  only  a  slight  nutriment  value. 
Nevertheless,  the  addition  of  sugar  and  milk 
makes  it  valuable  as  a  food.  The  food  value  of 
thai  raw  berry,  as  eaten  by  the  Arabs,  is  likewise 
dubious,  for  here  the  injection  of  such  large 
amounts  of  caffeine  into  the  system  would  cer- 
tainly counteract  any  tissue-building  effect  the 
other  constituents  of  the  bean  might  have.  A 
Coffee  infusion,  by  the  way,  contains  about  70-90i% 
of  the  total  caffeine  of  the  berry  after  grounds 
have  settled  out.  The  accompanying  figures  show 
the  number  of  calories  obtained  from  one  portion 
of  the  various  foods  as  they  are  served  in  Child's 
[Restaurants,  and  what  the  cost  would  be  if  the 
daily  normal  requirements  of  2,500  calories  were 
furnished  entirely  by  that  article. 

CALORIES  IN  FOODS  AND  THEIR  COST 

Calories  in  Cost  in 

One  Portion.  2,500  Calories 

Coffee    195.5  $.^4 

Cocoa    247.5  .50 

Milk   145.3  M 

Cake    200-300.  .40-.'60 

Toast 150.  .83 

Soup    75-100.  2.50-3.33 


It  will  be  seen  from  these^  figures  that  the  cup 
of  Coffee  provides  a  source  of  nutrition  that  is 
very  reasonable  in  price,  and  that,  compared  with 
milk  and  soup,  is  quite  an  inexpensive  food.  This, 
in  addition  to  the  fact  that  it  possesses  stimu- 
lating properties  and  a  delightful  flavor  and  taste, 
should  recommend  it  as  a  beverage  once  more  to 
all  who  are  interested  in  the  scientific  and  eco- 
nomical planning  of  the  dietary  man. 


ROASTING,    BLENDING,    CARE,    ETC. 

Next  in  importance  to  following  and  properly 
combining  cup  characteristics  is  uniformity  of 
roasts.  If  too  light,  the  bean  is  not  fully  de- 
veloped, and  the  fibre  cells  not  expanded  for  the 
release  of  the  volatile  oils,  whereas  if  roasting  is 
carried  too  far,  the  aroma  and  winey  character 
are  reduced  or  destroyed,  the  oils  are  "started" 
and  partly  driven  off,  the  Coffee  soon  "sweats," 
becomes  rancid,  tough  and  hard  to  grind.  To  the 
frequent  question,  which  is  best,  light  or  dark 
roasts, — ask  the  inquirer  whether  he  prefers  un- 
der-ripe fruit  or  that  which  is  over-ripe.  For  nor- 
mal distribution  there  is  one  proper  degree  of 
roast — rich  cinnamon  brown.  At  this  point  full 
development  of  both  bean  and  cup  characteristics 
are  gained.  A  dark  roast  produces  only  bitter- 
ness, and  bitterness  is  not  body. 

Coffees  for  soon  consumption  stand  the  full  cin- 
namon limit,  but  those  for  distribution  over  a 
wide  area,  where  they  sometimes  stand  in  grocers' 
stocks  for  weeks  before  being  placed  in  consump- 
tion, are  better  preserved  when  roasted  a  shade 
lighter,  as  deterioration  is  rapid  in  full  roasted 
Coffee.  In  making  color  comparisons,  the  Coffee 
should  ibe  finely  ground  and  a  spoonful  of  each 
placed  upon  glass  over  blue  paper.  They  may 
be  flattened,  squared  and  edged,  like  the  adjoin- 
ing squares  of  a  checker-board.     With  one's  back 

61 


to  the  light  and  the.  Coffees  held  almost  to  the 
level  of  the  eyes,  even  half  or  quarter  shade  va- 
riations may  readily  be  distinguished. 

It  is  a  growing  belief  that  in  roasts  of  shorter 
duration,  the  largest  percentage  of  the  aromatic 
properties  are  retained.  A  slow  roast  has  the  ef- 
fect of  baking  and  does  not  give  full  development; 
also  slow  roasts  seldom  produce  bright  roasts  and 
they  usually  make  the  Coffee  hard  instead  of  brit- 
tle, even  when  the  color  standard  has  been  at- 
tained. While  Coffees  of  widely  varying  degrees 
of  moisture  require  somewhat  different  treatment, 
the  concensus  of  opinion  is  that  the  best  results 
are  from  a  slower  fire  at  the  beginning,  until  some 
of  the  moisture  has  been  driven  off,  when  the 
stronger  application  of  heat  may  be  given  for  de- 
velopment. An  intense  heat  in  the  beginning  oft- 
en results  in  "tipping,"  charrinp  the  little  germ 
at'  the  end,  the  most  sensitive  part  of  the  bean. 

'Scorched  beans  are  due  to  their  being  caught 
at  some  point  in  the  cylinder,  often  in  a  bent 
flange.  Burning  on  one  face,  sometimes  called 
"kissing  the  cheeks"  is  caused  by  the  too  rapid 
revolution  of  the  cylinder,  so  that  some  of  the 
Coffee  "carries  over."  According  to  the  best  prac- 
tice, crowding  of  cylinders  is  avoided,  many  roast- 
ers making  it  a  rule  not  to  exceed  90  per  cent 
of  their  rated  capacity.  Those  operating  gas  roast- 
ers may  effect  a  fuel  economy  by  running  a  low 
grade  Coffee  in  the  cylinder  after  the  last  roast 
has  been  drawn  and  the  gas  extinguished;  five 
minutes  revolution  absorbs  the  heat  and  drives  off 
a  proportion  of  moisture.  The  Coffee,  which  may 
then  be  left  in  the  cylinder  is  warming  up.  Double 
roasting  brightens  a  roast,  but  it  is  to  the  detri- 
ment of  the  cup  quality.  A  dull  roasting  Coffee 
may  be  improved  by  revolving  the  green  Coffee 
in  a  cylinder  without  heat  for  twenty  minutes, 
this  having  the  effect  of  milling. 

The  use  of  a  small  amount  of  water  upon  roasts 
gives  better  control  by  checking  the  roast  at  the 


proper  point — the  crucial  time  of  its  greatest 
heat;  also  it  swells  and,  brightens  the  Coffee. 
While  the  addition  of  water  is  open  to  abuse,  we 
believe  but  very  few  roasters  have  soaked  their 
Coffees  to  offset  the  natural  shrinkage  three  to 
four  per  cent.  Such  practice  would  result  greatly 
to  the  detriment  of  the  cup  quality. 


ROASTING  REQUIRES  INTELLIGENCE  AND 
STUDY 

Do  not  take  for  granted  too  much  of  what  I  or 
anyone  else  may  tell  you.  Try  for  yourself.  While 
I  will  tell  you  what  is  good  with  me,  do  not  forget 
that  Coffee  must  be  good  before  it  is  blended, 
if  it  is  going  to  he  good  after  blending.  You  can- 
not buy  your  Coffees  hit  or  miss  and  expect  them 
to  make  a  good  blend.  Study  your  Coffee  and 
study  your  trade. 

Always  remember  that  there  can  be  no  set  rules 
for  roasting,  as  different  Coffees  require  different 
handling.  The  man  who  roasts  Coffee  should  be 
just  as  intelligent  and  just  as  responsible  as  the 
man  who  does  the  firm's  bookkeeping.  The  book- 
keeper can  do  all  of  his  work  by  rule,  but  the 
roaster  must  use  his  own  judgment,  for  he  has  no 
set  rules  to  govern  him. 

It  is  not  really  necessary  that  the  roaster  should 
know  how  to  blend,  but  if  he  is  a  good  blender 
he  is  that  much  more  valuable  to  his  firm. 

As  to  different  blends,  I  will  give  a  few  that  I 
know  to  be  good,  but,  of  course,  I  cannot  lay 
down  hard,  fast  rules  that  will  apply  to  every  sec- 
tion of  the  country,  for  I  do  not  know  what  Coffees 
cost,  laid  down  in  all  stores,  or  what  are  the  de- 
mands of  the  trade  in  every  place.  That  is  some- 
thing which  each  blender  must  learn  for  himself. 


SUGGESTIONS  FOR  MEDIUM   PRICE  BLENDS 

I  use  very  few  Rios  in  any  of  my  blends,  as 
there  are  so  few  people  who  like  that  strong  Rio 
flavor,  and  it  does  not  pay  to  carry  a  blend  with 
[Rio  in  it,  although  I  carry  a  line  of  Rio  to  please 
the  trade  that  calls  for  it. 

For  a  good  cheap  Coffee,  the  best  Santos  you 
can  afford  generally  gives  the  best  satisfaction. 
For  better,  one-third  Bogota  and  two-thirds  of 
good  Santos;  or  one-half  Santos,  one-fourth  Bo- 
gota, one-fourth  Guatemala;  for  still  better,  two- 
thirds  iBogota,  one-third  Guatemala;  or  one-half 
Bogota,  one-fourth  Guatemala,  one-fourth  good 
Santos. 

Of  course,  you  can  vary  the  grade  and  price  of 
those  blends  by  the  amount  of,  or  the  price  of 
the  Santos  you  wish  to  use.  Some  Rio  might  be 
used  in  blends  in  certain  territories.  A  good 
blend  can  be  made  with  one-half  Maracaibo,  one- 
fourth  Bogota,  one-fourth  Santos;  or  one-half  Bo- 
gota, one-fourth  Maracaibo,  one-fourth  Santos.  But 
unless  one  is  a  pretty  good  judge  of  Coffee,  I 
would  advise  not  using  Maracaibos  in  blends.  A 
good  Maracaibo  is  one  of  the  best  drinking  Cof- 
fees grown,  but  they  are  hard  to  match,  and  after 
you  have  the  line  you  think  you  want,  you  have 
to  try  every  bag  to  be  sure  of  it. 

If  the  price  permits,  a  good  cup  may  >be  obtain- 
ed through  using  one-half  Bourbon  with  one-fourth 
each  Maracaibo  and  low  cost  Bogota. 

Stick  to  Bogota  and  Guatemala  and  Santos  with 
Bogota,  as  the  basis  for  best  moderate  price 
blends;  they  are  bound  to  win  out,  as  I  think 
they  are  the  best  Coffees  grown  for  blending  pur- 
poses. 


64 


EVERY   BLEND  SHOULD  CONTAIN   THREE 
COFFEES,  OR  MORE 

In  my  judgment  every  blend  should  have  at  least 
three  Coffees  in  it.  In  the  event  of  not  being  able 
to  match  one  of  the  'Coffees  the  blender  has  been 
using,  or  that  he  can  buy  one  at  one-eight  or  one- 
quarter  cent  less  a  pound,  would  not  be  noticed 
in  the  blend;  but  when  cheaper  Coffee  is  bought 
it  must  not  be  used  as  a  sample  for  the  next  lot, 
for  one  might  be  tempted  to  also  shade  that  a 
little,  and  soon  the  good  would  be  shaded  out. 

I  do  not  think  there  is  any  Coffee  that  drinks 
as  well  by  itself  as  when  blended  with  some  other 
Coffeee.  Some  blenders^  bl^nd  what  are  known  to 
the  trade  as  acid  and  non-acid  Coffees.  Others 
prefer  to  blend  all  acid  Coffees,  and  still  others 
prefer  all  non-acid  Coffees.  This  is  altogether  a 
matter  of  taste,  but  when  you  start,  blend  up  the 
different  kinds  and  then  decide  on  what  you  want 
and  stick  to  it.  Do  not  use  acid  Coffee  one  time 
and  a  non-acid  the  next.  This  is  where  two-thirds 
of  the  dealers  are  falling  down  today. 

Take  it  for  yourself:  if  you  like  a  good,  strong^ 
winey  Coffee,  and  someone  gives  you  a  cup  of  non- 
acid  Coffee,  you  will  say  that  the  Coffee  is  no 
good,  it  is  too  flat.  And  if  you  like  the  non-acid 
better  and  get  a  cup  of  winey  Coffee,  you  will  say 
that  is  no  good,  as  it  is  too  rank  or  sour. 

COFFEE  AT  THE  "DRINKING  POINT" 

In  buying  your  Coffees  and  trying  them  out  in 
the  cup,  be  very  careful  not  to  make  up  your 
mind  too  quickly,  as  sometimes  a  Coffee  will  taste 
fine  when  you  first  pour  the  boiling  water  upon 
it,  but  when  it  cools  down  to  what  I  call  the 
drinking  point,  it  has  flattened  out  to  be  practically 
no  good,  while  on  the  other  hand,  the  one  that  did 
not  seem  to  be  quite  so  good  at  the  start  holds  its 
own  or  improves  right  through,  until  it  becomes 
cold.  I  always  give  the  preference  to  the  Coffee 
that  is  best  at  the  drinking  point. 

65 


THE  RANGE  OF  GRADES  FOR  BLENDING 

The  lowest  grades  of  Brazil  Coffee  to  be  used 
for  blending  would  be  those  known  as  Victorias. 
From  this  point  we  should  pass  on  in  the  scale  to 
Rio,  from  the  low  grades  to  the  fancy  old-crop 
golden  Rio  called  for  in  certain  sections  of  the 
country.  Then  there  would  follow  the  straight 
Santos  Coffees,  beginning  with  the  low  grades 
and  running  from  this  point  to  the  medium  grades, 
to  be  followed  by  the  high-grade  Santos  types. 

Under  the  head  of  Santos  is  the  Coffee  known 
as  the  flat  bean  Santos,  and  also  those  growths 
which,  on  account  of  appearance  and  cup  charac- 
ter, are  termed  Bourbon.  In  some  sections  the  flat 
beans  would  be  found  desirable,  while  in  other  sec- 
tions the  Bourbon  Coffees  would  be  preferred. 

After  the  Brazils  would  come  the  mild  Coffees, 
and  in  some  instances  these  Coffees  are  sold 
straight,  rather'  than  blended.  There  is  a  certain 
percentage  of  the  consuming  trade  that  is  better 
pleased  with  a  straight  Bogota  'Coffee  than  with 
a  blend.  •  > 


GROUPING  COFFEES  FOR  BLENDINiG 
PURPOSES 

When  considering  the  various  blends  it  will 
probably  be  more  satisfactory  if  they  are  divided 
into  groups.  The  first  group  would  be  the  one 
containing  the  lowest-priced  combinations,  and 
naturally  the  greatest  percentage  of  Santos.  There- 
fore, the  following,  suggestions  will  include  blends 
of  Coffees  containing  50  per  cent  of  ^Santos  or 
Bourbon  Santos  as  the  dealer  may  find  most  ac- 
ceptable in  his  location.  They  are  simply  to  be 
taken  as  a  basis  from  which  the  dealer  may  find 
it  possible  to  work  out  acceptable  brands  for  him- 
self by  varying  the  percentages  of  the  Coffees 
used,  as  in  his  opinion  the  results  warrant. 

66 


BLENDS  OF  SANTOS  AND  ONE  OTHER 
COFFEE 

The  first  series  would  naturally  be  those  con- 
taining Santos  with  one  other  Coffee,  as  follows: 

Santos  and  Maracaibo,  Santos  and  Bucaramanga, 
Santos  and  Caracas,  Santos  and  Bogota. 

After  this  there  would  follow  the  combinations 
containing  50  per  cent  of  either  Santos  or  Bourbon 
Santos,  with  two  other  Coffees. 

Santos,  Bogota  and  Maracaibo;  Santos,  Bogota 
and  Bucaramanga;  Santos,  iBogota  and  Guatemala; 
Santos,  Bogota  and  Mexican. 


BOGOTA  AS  THE  BASIS  FOR  BLENDS 

The  next  group  would  be  a  series  of  blends  with 
Bogota  as  the  basis.  In  many  of  these  blends  50 
per  cent  Bogota  could  be  used,  but  in  some,  par- 
ticularly those  combinations  with  Dutch  East  In- 
dian Coffees,  the  quantity  of  Bogota  should  be  re- 
duced.   This  series  will  run  as  follows: 

Bogota  and  Bourbon;  Bogota,  washed  Santos  and 
Bourbon;  Bogota  and  Guatemala;  Bogota  and  Mex- 
ican; Bogota,  Guatemala  and  Mexican;  Bogota, 
washed  Maracaibo  and  Guatemala;  Bogota  and 
East  Indian;  Bogota,  Dutch  East  Indian  and  Mex- 
ican; Bogota,  Dutch  East  Indian  and  Guatemala; 
Bogota,  Dutch  East  Indian,  washed  Maracaibo  and 
Guatemala;  Bogota,  Dutch  East  Indian  and  Mo- 
cha; Bogota,  Dutch  East  Indian,  Guatemala  and 
Mocha. 

The  above  would  be  followed  by  the  various 
combinations  that  may  be  made  up  of  Dutch  East 
Indian  with  Mocha,  and  also  the  types  of  Coffee 
from  the  Island  of  Java  with  Mocha.  These  blends 
usually  run  from  two-thirds  to  three-quarters  Dutch 
East  Indian  of  Java,  the  remainder  being  Mocha. 

67 


MOCHA  HAS  AN  INDIVIDUALITY  ALL  ITS  OWN 

The  character  given  to  a  brand  of  Coffee  by  the 
use  of  a  percentage  of  Mocha  opens  up  another 
line  of  blends.  Many  blends  in  years  past  have 
contained  a  very  liberal  percentage  of  Mocha,  but 
it  has  been  gradually  replaced  by  Santos  Coffees, 
because  of  their  better  appearance  and  lower 
price.  There  is  an  Individuality  to  be  found  in  a 
fine  grade  of  Mocha  that  is  not  obtainable  from 
Coffe  grown  anywhere  outside  of  Arabia,  so  that 
blends  containing  reasonable  percentage  of  Coffees 
from  the  Dutch  East  Indies  and  Arabia,  together 
with  fancy  Mexican,  Central  American,  or  South 
American  types,  are  among  the  finest  obtainable. 

Mucli  of  the  so-called  Coffee  blending  is  nothing 
more  nor  less  than  mixing  of  Coffee  together  in 
order  to  obtain  a  fairly  good-looking  product  at  the 
lowest  possible  price.  Such  blending  is  worked 
from  a  price  stand-point,  and  if  the  result  is  a 
fairly  good-looking  product,  and  if  the  cup  is  not 
objectionable,  it  is  termed  a  fancy  blend  and  so 
marketed. 

To  blend  Coffee  properly,  various  growths  hav- 
ing different  characteristics  should  be  taken,  and 
the  Coffees  should  be  used  in  such  proportion  that 
the  result  from  the  blend  will  differ  from  that  of 
any  of  the  Coffees  used  straight.  Further  than 
this,  the  beverages  obtainable  from  a  blend  of  this 
description  should  be  preferable  to  the  results  se- 
cured from  the  Coffees  used  separately,  otherwise 
there  is  no  object  in  blending. 

To  originate  a  blend  that  is  distinctive,  that  has 
a  pleasant  aroma  and  taste,  and  also  one  that  is 
difficult  to  match,  requires  an  expert  knowledge  of 
Coffee  and  ability  to  test  Coffees  in  the  cup. 

Many  of  the  so-called  'blends  are  composed  prin- 
cipally of  a  good,  smooth,  neutral  Santos,  with  a 
sufficient  percentage  of  Bogota,  Bucaramanga  or 
Mexican  Coffee  to  relieve  the  flat  Santos  taste.    A 


blend  of  Coffee  properly  balanced  should  have  a 
full,  rich  body  as  a  basis.  To  this  should  be  added 
one  or  another  of  the  growths  of  Coffee  having  an 
acid  character,  and  a  further  Coffee  or  Coffees 
should  be  used  to  give,  If  possible,  an.  increased 
aroma. 

A  winey  Bourbon  Santos  will  be  found  very  ser- 
viceable in  many  blends.  Types  of  these  Coffees 
have  a  distinct  winey  quality  differing  from  other 
growths  of  Coffee,  and  more  nearly  approaching 
Mocha  than  any  other  type.  Bourbon  Coffees  vary 
as  to  acidity.  'Some  blenders  will  consider  an  ex- 
tremely acid  Coffee  preferable,  while  others  will 
prefer  a  Coffee  showing  less  winey  quality;  but 
such  a  Coffee  will  add  the  distinct  Bourbon  flavor 
to  the  blend. 

The  winey  character  of  certain  Mexican  Coffees 
is  found  to  be  very  serviceable  in  high-grade 
blends.  The  flavor  and  aroma  of  the  Guatemala 
types  should  not  be  overlooked  as  adding  distinct 
characteristics  to  the  blends  in  which  they  are 
used. 

For  the  most  part  the  hackbone  of  the  better 
blends  of  Coffee,  and,  in  fact,  many  of  the  cheaper 
blends,  will  be  one  or  other  of  the  Colomhian 
growths.  Most  of  these  Coffees  are  known  under 
the  general  term  of  Bogota. 

Blends  of  still  different  character  are  obtainable 
through  the  use  of  the  various  Coffees  shipped 
from  the  Dutch  East  Indies,  and  where  the  con- 
sumer has  been  accustomed  to  the  character  given 
to  a  blend  by  the  use  of  a  percentage  of  Padang, 
Mandheling  or  Ankola  Coffee,  they  prefer  a  blend 
ofl  this  description  to  the  blends  made  up  of  Cen- 
tral and  South  American  Coffees. 


69 


The  following  blends  have  proven  very  popular 
in  their  price  and  class: 


5%  Mocha 
10%  Maracaibo 
15%  Bogota 
40%  Santos 
30%  Robusta 
OR 

5%  Mocha 
10%  Maracaibo 
15%  Bogota 
15%  Nicaragua 
15%  Robusta 
40%  iSantos 

10%  Bogota 
20%  Sa-Titos 
20%  Salvador 
40%  Nicaragua 
10%  Robusta 

***** 

30%  Guatemala 
30%  Bogota 
10%  iSalvador 
30%  ISantos 

***** 

30%  Natural  Robusta 
40%  Liberian  A.  J. 
10%  Rio 
10%  iCosta  Rica 
10%  Nicaragua 

***** 

10%  Mocha 
20%  Java 
10%  Bucaramanga 
10%  Maracaibo 
20%  Guatemala 
30%  Nicaragua 

***** 

40%  Mexican 

20%  Bogota 

20%  Washed  Guatemala 

20%  Salvador 

***** 

10%  Colombian 
50%  Mexican 
40%  Nicaragua 

OR  BETTER 
20%  Colomibian 
30%  Guatemala 
30%  Nicaragua 
20%?  Santos 


20%?  Robusta 
20%  iSantos 
30%  Salvador 
30%  Mexican 

***** 

70%  Rio 
20%  Robusta 
10%  Salvador 

***** 

10%  Costa  Rica 
10%  (Santos 
70%  Robusta 
10%  Guatemala 

***** 

40%  Bogota 
25%  ISantos 
15%  Bucaramanga 
10%  Mocha 
10%  Java 

***** 

40%  Bogota 
10%  (Salvador 
10%  Nicaragua 

40%  Rio 

***** 

40%  Natural  Nicaragua 
10%  Costa  Rica 
40%  Santos 
10%  Salvador 

***** 

40%  Guatemala 
20%  Bogota 
20%  ISalvador 
20%  ISantos 

***** 

50%  iLiberian  A.  J. 
30%  Guatemala 
20%  Big  Bean  Mexican 
***** 

25%  Mocha 
75%  Java 

***** 

50%  Bogota 
35%  Santos 
15%  Bucaramanga 
***** 

60%  Bogota 

30%  Old  Brown  Colombian 

10%  Godd  Bourfbon  Santos 


70 


A  good  point  to  consider  in  blending  is  to  get  a 
good,  strong,  smooth,  sweet,  heavy  bodied,  winey 
liquor;  not  a  thin,  flat,  spoiled  water  drink.  There 
may  be  better  Coffees  than  Santos,  Bogotas  and 
Guatemalas  for  blending  purposes,  but  I  have  nev- 
er had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  them.  Of  course, 
you  can  find  a  chop,  once  in  a  while,  in  any  Coffee 
that  is  exceptionally  good,  but  when  you  come  to 
match  it  again  you  are  lost,  as  it  seems  almost 
impossible  to  get  two  chops  alike.  With  Bogota, 
Santos  and  Guatemala  it  is  not  so  hard  to  match 
them. 

One-half  Guatemala,  one-quarter  Bogota  and  one- 
quarter  Santos  does  not,  in  my  opinion,  make  a 
good  blend.  If  you  make  it  one-half  Bogota,  one- 
quarter  Guatemala  and  one^quarter  Santos,  you 
will  have  a  blend  that  will  stand  up  to  the  best  of 
them;  I  know  of  nothing  better  within  the  price 
range. 


/I 


COFFEE  ROASTING  TABLE 

Sixteen  Per  Cent  Shrinkage  including  %c  per 
Pound  far  Roasting 


Green 

Roasted 

Green 

Raasted 

Green 

Roaste 

12 

14.88 

21% 

26.19 

31 

37.50 

12^ 

15.18 

21% 

26.48 

31% 

37.79 

121/2 

15.48 

22 

26.76 

31% 

38.09 

1234 

15.78 

221/4 

27.08 

31% 

38.39 

13 

16.07 

22% 

27.38 

32 

38.69 

131/4 

16.37 

22% 

27.67 

32% 

38.98 

131/^ 

16.67 

23 

27.97 

32% 

39.28 

13%, 

16.96 

23% 

28.27 

32% 

39.58 

14 

17.26 

23% 

28.57 

33 

39.88 

UV4. 

17.56 

23% 

28.86 

33% 

40.17 

UV2 

17.86 

24 

29.16 

33% 

40.47 

14% 

18.15 

24% 

29.46 

33% 

40.77 

15 

18.45 

24% 

29.76 

34 

41.07 

15^ 

18.75 

24% 

30.05 

34% 

41.37 

151/^ 

19.05 

25 

30.35 

34% 

41.67 

15% 

19.34 

25% 

30.65 

34% 

41.97 

16 

19.64 

25% 

30.95 

35 

42.26 

16^ 

19.94 

25% 

31.25 

35% 

42.56 

leVa 

20.24 

26 

31.55 

35% 

42.86 

16% 

20.54 

26% 

31.85 

35% 

43.15 

17 

20.83 

26% 

32.15 

36 

43.45 

im 

21.13 

26% 

32.44 

36% 

43.75 

VlVz 

21.43 

27 

32.74 

36% 

44.05 

17% 

21.73 

27% 

33.04 

36% 

44.34 

18 

22.02 

27% 

33.34 

37 

44.64 

18^ 

22.32 

27% 

33.63 

37% 

44.94 

18% 

22.62 

28 

33.93 

37% 

45.24 

18% 

22.92 

''i^%y4. 

34.23 

37% 

45.54 

19 

23.21 

28% 

34.53 

38 

45.83 

19^ 

23.51 

28% 

34.82 

38% 

46.13 

19% 

23.81 

29 

35.12 

38% 

46.43 

19% 

24.11 

29% 

35.42 

38% 

46.73 

2a 

24.40 

29% 

35.72 

39 

47.02 

20^ 

'24.70 

29% 

36.01 

39% 

47.32 

20% 

25.00 

30 

36.31 

39% 

47.62 

20% 

25.30 

30% 

36.61 

39% 

47.92 

21 

25.59 

30% 

3'6.90 

40 

48.21 

21% 

25.89 

30% 

3.7.20 

72 


ICED  COFFEE  BLENDS 

Coffee  can  be  made  as  acceptable  a  cool  summer 
drink  as  it  is  the  popular  hot  beverage  of  the  win- 
ter. To  obtain  this  result,  the  roaster  must  bear 
in  mind  that  all  cold  drinks  require  more  substance 
than  those  where  heat  is  a  factor.  Coffee  for  icing 
should  be  so  prepared  as  to  give  out  a  deeper  col- 
ored liquor  than  the  infusion  for  hot  Coffee. 

Those  Coffees  having  a  heavy  winey  or  pro- 
nounced roughness,  extremes  in  flavor,  are  best 
avoided  for  iced  Coffee.  The  appeal  must  come 
first  through  the  eye  by  the  deeper  color  of  the 
liquor;  then  to  the  palate,  by  the  smoothness  of 
the  decoction.  Bogotas  of  moderately  winey  but 
heavy  body,  well-dried  high-grade  Cucuta  Maracai- 
bo,  combined  withj  a  soft  drinking  Santos,  will  be 
found  as  a  standard  to  give  the  best  results. 

Careful  tests  demonstrate  that  in  color  of  liquor, 
flavor  and  body,  no  moderate  cost  blend  excels 
these  three  characters  in  combination.  Roasted 
correctly,  they  almost  defy  blundering  in  the  mak- 
ing, being  as  nearly  fool-proof  as  can  be  made. 

All  directions  for  making  Iced  Coffee  should  em- 
phasize two  facts,  viz:  making  the  Coffee  some- 
what stronger  than  for  hot  Coffee,  and  that  the 
receptacle  for  holding  the  Coffee  should  be  placed 
on  the  Ice,  not  the  Ice  in  the  Coffee. 


VARIOUS  HIGHLY  ACCEPTABLE  METHODS  OF 

BREWING    COFFEES,    AS    STATED    BY 

VARIOUS  AUTHORITIES 

'  'Coffee  (like  bread)  should  be  cooked,  not  half- 
Cooked,  not  over-cooked,  but  cooked  done.  This 
applies  to  both  Roasting  and  Brewing.  Care  should 
be  used  in  Brewing  Coffee  as  in  baking  bread. 

7a 


GRINDING,   PREPARATION,   ETC.,   ETC. 

The  manner  of  grinding  or  cutting  the  Coffee 
bean  depends  entirely  upon  individual  taste  and 
custom. 

Coarse-ground  Coffee  is  not  generally  desirable, 
as  it  requires  too  long  an  infusion  to  extract  the 
full  strength,  and  too  much  boiling  tends  to  spoil 
both  flavor  and)  aroma. 

A  medium-fine  grind  is  the  most  generally  ser- 
viceable for  ordinary  home  use. 

There  are  many  different  formulas  for  prepar- 
ing Coffee  for  the  table,  the  majority  capable  of 
being  classified  under  the  three  headings: 

Infusion  or  Drawing:  Putting  the  ground  Cof- 
fee into  boiling  water  and  keeping  it  hot  on  the 
range  without  boiling  for  eight  to  ten  minutes. 
With  ordinary  care  this  method  will  produce  a 
very  pleasing  beverage,  but  it  does  not  bring  out 
much  of  the  stimulating  property  of  the  bean. 

Decoction  or  Boiling:  Putting  the  ground  Cof- 
fee in  cold  water,  allowing  it  to  come  to  a  boil 
and  keeping  it  boiling  for  a  few  seconds.  This 
brings  out  more  strength  than  the  preceding  meth- 
od, and  makes  an  excellent  liquor,  but  if  the  boil- 
ing is  continued  too  long,  the  fine  aroma  passes 
away.  A  few  grains  of  salt  improves  any  Coffee. 
When  made  by  boiling,  a  large  cup  of  Coffee 
contains  about  2%  grains  each  of  tannin  and  caf- 
feine, properties  of  the  fiber  or  grounds  which 
are  extracted  by  their  immersion.  (Medical  au- 
thorities state  that  the  last  mentioned  is  a  true 
stimulant  in  that  It  gives  no  reaction).  But  when 
taken  in  large  quantity  these  properties  are  said 
to  affect  persons  of  highly  nervous  temperament. 
For  the  "old-fashioned"  boiling  method,  the 
white  of  an  egg  is  first  stirred  into  the  ground 
Coffee.  The  latter  is  then  placed  in  the  pot  and 
the  proper  amount  of  boiling  water  is  poured 
over  it,  the  water,  taken  fresh,  having  previously 
been  allowed  to  boil  hard  for  ten  minutes.     The 

74 


Coffee  is  permitted  to  come  to  a  good  boil,  is 
stirred  thoroughly  once  and  then  placed  on  the 
back  of  the  stove  for  ten  minutes.  If  any  grounds 
appear  on  top,  they  are  stirred  a  little  and  allow- 
ed to  settle.  This  process  gives  excellent  results, 
but  it  requires  a  good  deal  of  care. 

The  mistaken  argument  of  economy  is  some- 
times advanced  in  favor  of  boiling.  Let  it  be 
known  that  a  pound  of  high-grade  Coffee  will  pro- 
duce from  35  to  38  smooth,  rich  and  delicious 
cups  by  the  "drip"  method,  a  cost  of  one  cent  per 
cup,  the  cheapest  and  best  enjoyed  article  on 
one's  table.  Coffee  stands  as  the  single  food  pro- 
duct that  has  not  doubled  in  price  the  past  ten 
years. 

Filteration  or  Distilling:  By  the  use  of  a  "per- 
colator" the  boiling  water  passing  slowly  through 
the  ground  Coffee  held  in  the  center  of  the  ma- 
chine. This  method  is  largely  used  because  the 
result  is  nearly  always  uniform.  No  matter  which 
method  is  employed,  the  grounds  should  never  be 
alowed  to  remain  in  the  Coffee  for  any  length  of 
time  after  it  is  made. 

In  hotels,  restaurants  and  other  establishments 
where  it  is  brewed  in  large  quantities,  the  Coffee 
is  generally  held  in  a  bag  or  other  receptacle  in 
the  upper  part  of  the  urn,  in  order  that  the  grounds 
may  be  more  easily  removed. 

The  best  general  advice  to  the  person  wishing 
a  good  cup  of  Coffee  is  to  buy  Coffee  as  pure  as 
possible,  and  of  a  flavor  that  suits  the  individual 
taste,  to  have  it  fresh  roasted,  fresh  ground  to 
moderate  fineness  and  fresh  made  In  a  scrupulous- 
ly clean  Coffee-pot. 

With  these  points  secured,  a  little  practice  will 
produce  a  fine  beverage  by  any  reasonable  pro- 
cess. A  little  cold  water  dashed  in  boiling  Coffee 
checks  the  boiling  and  causes  the  grounds  to 
settle,  leaving  the  beverage  perfectly  clear.  In 
Creole  cookery,  the  sauce  result  is  obtained  by 
adding  a  small  piece  of  charcoal. 

75 


French  Coffee:  The  special  flavor  in  much  of 
the  Coffee  served  in  France  is  generally  due  to 
any  one  or  all  of  the  three  following  causes: 
(1)  the  addition  of  10%  to  30%  of  Chicory,  (2) 
the  especially  heavy  roasting  of  the  bean,  and 
(3)  the  occasional  addition  of  a  little  butter  and 
sugar  during  the  roasting. 

It  is  generally  made  in  a  percolator  from  fine 
ground  Coffee,  the  liquid  being  passed  through 
percolators  two  or  three  times  to  acquire  greater 
strength. 

Cafe  au  Lait,  ''Coffee  with  Milk"  or  French 
Breakfast  Coffee,"  generally  means  strong  Coffee 
served  with  boiling  milk,  about  half  Coffee  and 
half  milk,  or  to  suit  the  individual  taste. 

Cafe  Noir,  Black  Coffee  or  After  Dinner  Coffee, 
requires  an  especially  generous  proportion  of  Cof- 
fee, and  percolation  continued  until  the  liquid  is 
black. 

Demi-Tasse  de  Cafe,  or  Cafe  Demitasse,  means 
literally  only  a  small  or  half-cup  of  Coffee,  but, 
carelessly  used,  the  expression  has  come  to  signi- 
fy Cafe  Noir  or  After  Dinner  Coffee. 

Cafe  a  la  Creme  is  made  by  adding  plain  or 
whipped  cream  to  good  Cafe  Noir.  Vienna  Coffee 
is  prepared  in  a  special  urn,  which  passes  and  re- 
passes the  steam  through  the  (finely  ground) 
Coffee,  thus  retaining  the  full  aroma.  It  is  serv- 
ed with  whipped  cream. 

Creole  Coffee  is  prepared  by  slow  percolation. 
The  Coffee,  fresh  roasted  and  ground,  is  pressfed 
compactly  in  the  filter  of  the  pot  and  a  small 
quantity  of  boiling  water  is  poured  over.  When 
this  has  passed  through,  more  water  is  added, 
the  process  being  continued  at  intervals  of  about 
five  minutes.  The  result  is  a  very  strong  and  rich 
extract,  which  inay  either  be  served  fresh  or  be 
preserved  in  an  air-tight  vessel  for  future  use. 
A  small  quantity,  even  so  little  as  a  tablespoonful, 
of  good  "Creole  Coffee"  Ist  sufficient  for  a  cup  of 
Coffee  of  ordinary  strength. 

76 


Turkish  Coffee  is  made  from  beans  ground  as 
fine  as  powder,  placed  in  a  pot  (either  large  or 
"individual")  with  cold  water  and  brought  to  the 
boiling  point.  It  is  never  allowed  to  boil,  and  is 
served  as  it  is  without  straining  or  settling  the 
grounds. 

Dutch  Coffee  is  prepared  by  cold  water  process 
from  very  fine-ground  Coffee  held  in  a  special 
filter*  with  top  and  bottom  reservoirs.  It  requires 
four  hours  or  longer  for  the  water  to  percolate 
through  the  Coffee,  and  in  its  passage  it  extracts 
a  large  percentage  of  strength  and  flavor. 

Russian  Coffee  is  strong  blaci<  Coffee. 

Coffee  Extracts  or  Essence.  Genuine  Coffee  ex- 
tract is  made  commercially  by  distillation,  steam- 
ing and  evaporating  the  liquid  until  it  is  reduced 
to  the  desired  strength. 

One  or  two  teaspoonfuls  is  generally  sufficient 
lo  make  a  cup  of  Coffee  of  moderate  strength. 
For  household  purposes,  it  can  be  made  nearly 
the  same  result  by  following  the  formula  for 
Creole  Coffee. 

Coffee,  whether  raw  or  roasted,  should  always 
be  kept  away  from  all  strong  odors,  as  it  absorbs 
them  very  rapidly.  Roasted  Coffee  (as  already 
mentioned)  should  never  be  exposed  to  the  air,  as 
it  will  quickly  lose  its  flavor  and  aroma. 

A  few  things  about  Coffee  by  a  Brazilian  Expert: 


HOW  TO  GRIND   COFFEE 

Coffee  should  not  be  ground  too  fine  to  avoid 
sediments  and  obtain  it  clear.  The  water  will 
dissolve  the  essence  in  the  coarse-ground  Coffee 
very  well.  Wherever  possible.  Coffee  should  also 
be  kept,  in  preference,  in  the  bean,  and  ground 
only  when  needed  for  use.  The  reason  is  that 
Coffee  is  exceedingly  susceptible  to  taking  bad 
odors,  especially  when  in  the  ground  state.  Even 
in;  the  green  state  in  the  hold  of  a  ship  is  liable 


77 


to  take  bad  odors  from  the  ship,  and  it  is  well 
known  that  you  can  never  get  a  good  cup  of  Cof- 
fee on  ship^board,  because  the  ground  Coffee,  as 
soon  as  exposed,  takes  the  smell  and  taste  of  salt 
water. 

In  Brazil,  when  the  interior  of  a  house  has 
been  freshly  painted,  the  custom  is  to  place  a 
plate  with  ground  Coffee  in  the  middle  of  the 
room  over  night.  Next  morning  the  smell  of 
fresh  paint  is  gone  from  the  room,  but  the  Coffee 
smells  and  tastes  like  a  paint-pot.  It  is  therefore 
essential  that  all  vessels  used  in  the  roasting, 
grinding  and  preparing  of  Coffee  should  be  kept 
scrupulously  clean  and  odorless. 


HOW  TO  MAKE  GOOD  COFFEE 

Coffee  should  never  be  boiled;  it  extracts  the 
obnoxious  compounds  and  gives  it  a  disagreeable 
bitter  taste. 

Upon  occasion:  Mrs.  Leslie  Carter,  the  Actress, 
while  staying  at  a  hotel  in  Sedalia,  Mo.,  com- 
plained of  the  abominable  bitter  Coffee  they  were 
serving  her.  The  representative  of  a  wholesale 
'Coffee  firm,  who  overheard  her,  went  to  the  kitch- 
en and  prepared  her  some  fresh  Coffee,  really 
good.  Mrs.  Cartel^  was  so  pleased  with  it  that  it 
opened  an  acquaintance  which  resulted  in  Mrs. 
Carter  engaging  the  salesman  as  her  business 
manager. 

The  ibest  way  to  make  good  Coffee  is  by  the 
drip  system.  Numerous  machines  for  this  are  on 
the  market,  all  more  or  less  on  the  same  principle, 
which  consists  in  letting  hot  water  filter  through 
the  pulverized  Coffee  contained  in  a  receptacle, 
the  bottom  of  which  is  a  fine  sieve,  through 
iwhich  the  water  runs  off. 

In  the  best  of  these  machines  the  lower  part  is 
a  receptacle  containing  as  much  water  as  neces- 
sary for  the  number  of  cups  of  Coffee  required. 
Above  this,  fitting  into  the  first,  is  another  recep- 

78 


tacle  with  a  fine  sieve  bottom,  holding  the  amount 
of  ground  Coffee  required,  ordinarily  about  a  ta- 
blespoonful  to  the  cup. 

A  metal  or  glass  tube  passes  from  the  bottom 
of  the  lower  receptacle  to  the  top  of  the  upper 
one.  When  the  machine  is  put  on  the  stove  or 
over  a  lamp,  the  pressure  of  the  steam  developed 
forces  the  boiling  water  through  the  tube  to  the 
upper  receptacle,  when  it  spreads  out  over  the 
Coffee,  filters  through  it  and  runs  through  the 
sieve  to  the  bottom.  This  continues  until  the 
Coffee  has  the  desired  strength. 

A  good  way^  too,  and  much  used  in  Brazil  and 
Europe,  is  the  "old-fashioned"  way  of  putting 
ground  Coffee  into  a  conical  sack  of  clean  new 
linen,  held  open  by  a  wire  ring,  and  hanging  It 
over  a  can.  Hot  water  is  then  poured  over  the 
Coffee  and  repoured,  until  it  is  strong  enough. 
Before  using  it,  the  sack  should  be  boiled  in  Cof- 
fee to  extract  the  odor  and  taste  of  the  new  linen. 

In  all  cases  the  greatest  care  should  be  taken 
that  all  utensils  are  always  kept  scrupulously 
clean.  If  the  Coffee  is  made  in  metal  machines, 
it  should  be  transferred  to  a  porcelain  jug  as 
soon  as  it  is  made,  and  the  machine  carefully 
cleaned,  as  Coffee  attacks  all  metals,  especially 
copper. 

It  is  also  essential  that  the  water  used  in  mak- 
ing Coffee  be  pure  and  clear,  and  contain  no  min- 
eral salts.  It  should  not  be  boiling,  but  of  a  tem- 
perature that  you  can  just  put  your  finger  in 
without  scalding.  Boiling  water  not  only  volatil- 
izes the  aromatic  essences,  but  extracts  the  ob- 
noxious compounds  which  give'  the  Coffee  a  disa- 
greeable taste. 

Connoisseurs  who  are  very  particular  about  this 
beverage  go  so  far  as  to  use  only  cold  water  in 
extracting  their  Coffee.  They  have  the  patience 
to  put  it  in  a  porcelain  filter,  pour  cold  water  on 
it  over  and  over  again  until  it  is  strong  enough. 

79 


Then  they  put  the  can  containing  the  infusion 
into  a  hot  water  bath;  that  is,  another  vessel 
containing  boiling  water,  and  heat  it  to  tlie  boil- 
ing point. 

Others,  again,  put  the  ground  Coffee  in  a  cov- 
ered porcelain  pot  with  sufficient  cold  water  and 
let  it  stand  for  ten  to  twelve  hours.  Then  they 
carefully  pour  off  the  liquid,  or  filter  it,  and  heat 
it  in  a  hot  water  bath.  This  certainly  is  the  way 
to  obtain  the  most  delicious  Coffee,  because  it 
retains  all  the  aroma  and  fine  flavor  without  dis- 
solving any  of  the  obnoxious  bitter-tasting  com- 
ponents. 

Coffee  should  be  drunk  as  soon  as  possible  after 
making  it,  and  not  kept  standing  too  long.  Nor 
should  it  be.  kept  over  and  warmed  up  again,  as 
it  loses  its  flavor  by  standing. 


COFFEE  DRINKING  IN   BRAZIL 

In  Brazil,  where  you  get  the  most  delicious 
Coffee  in  the  world,  and  Coffee  making  has  de- 
veloped into  an  art,  there  is  a  saying  that  Coffee, 
to  be  good,  should  be:  "Black  as  Night,  Hot  as 
Hell  and  Sweet  as  Love." 

In  fact,  however,  a  real  good  cup  of  Coffee,  as 
you  get  it  in  the  leading  Cafes  in  Hio  or  Sao 
Paulo,  is  not  black  as  night  or  so  very  strong, 
but  of  a  chestnut  color,  so  clear  and  transparent 
that  you  can  almost  see  the  bottom  of  the  cup 
and  it  leaves  an  amber  stain. 

It  should  froth  like  chocolate,  and  its  fragrant 
aroma  should  fill  the  room.  There  are  no  saloons 
or  bars  in  Brazil,  and  Coffee  takes  the  place  of 
"Social"  drink,  of  high-ball  or  cocktail. 

There  are  Cafes  in  every  street  that  make  a 
specialty  of  serving  only  Coffee.  Their  wide  open 
doors,  little  round  marble-topped  tables,  (with 
small  cups  and  saucers  set  up  around  a  sugar 
basin,  make  inviting  pictures. 

80 


You  sit  down,  pull  a  cup  towards  you,  and  im- 
mediately an  attendant  comes  and  fills  it  with  de- 
licious hot  Coffee,  for  which  you  lay  down  a  nick- 
el coin  of  lOO  Reis,  equal  to  three  cents. 

If  you  pay  a  social  visit,  or  call  on  the  President 
of  the  Republic,  or  any  high  official,  the  first 
thing  you  will  observe  is  a  servant  coming  in  with 
a  tray  of  cups  and  saucers  and  a  Coffee-can,  to 
hand  you  a  cup  of  fragrant  hot  Coffee.  After  you 
have  taken  that  you  proceed  to  state  your  busi- 
ness. 

Americans  may  laugh  at  this  and  call  it  un- 
business-like,  but  it  cannot  be  denied  that  this 
show  of  hospitality  will  remove  any  restraint  and 
put  you  at  your  ease,  while  the  stimulating  effect 
of  the  hot  Coffee  clears  your  ideas. 

In  this  way  the  average  Brazilian  business 
man,  or  politician,  or  whatever  he  may  be,  takes 
on  an  average  in  a  day  from  one  to  two  dozen 
small  cups  of  black  Coffee,  and  he  not  only  sur- 
vives it,  but  keeps  healthy,  works  quite  as  hard 
as  the  average  American  business  man,  and  main- 
tains a  clearer  brain  and  steadier  nerves  than  if 
he  had  fortified  himself  with  a  dozen  high-balls. 
And  this  in  spite  of  what  "Postum"  and  other 
speculative  competitors  (?)  have  to  say  concerning 
the  injurious  effects  of  Coffee. 

To  this  habit  of  continually  taking  small  cups 
of  black  Coffee  during  the  day  may  be  ascribed  to 
the  limitation  of  the  use  of  alcoholic  drinks  and 
the  absence  of  inebriate  persons  in  Brazil,  for 
Coffee  seems  to  create  an  aversion  to  them  in  the 
system. 

The  Brazilian,  is  accustomed  to  take  a  light 
wine  with  his  meals,  but  never  an  alcoholic 
drink  between  meals,  especially  no  spirits. 

One  (considered  good)  authority  says:  Avoid 
cream  with   Coffee. 

Coffee  taken  with  hot  milk  in  the  morning,  or, 
in  fact,  any  time,  is  an  excellent  aliment,  a  meal 
in  itself,  we  may  say.     Beware,  however,  of  tak- 

81 


ing  Coffee  with  a  lot  of  cream  in  it,  together  with 
your  meals,  as  is  generally  the  custom  through- 
out the  United  States 

The  fat  in  the  cream  enters  with  certain  com- 
ponents in  the  Coffee  into  a  combination  which 
is  not  only  indigestible  in  itself,  but  obstructs 
the  digestion  of  the  accompanying  meals  and  oth- 
er rich  foods,  and  will  lead  in  time  to  chronic 
indigestion  and  stomach,  heart  and  liver  troubles. 

And  if  "Postum"  and  other  competitors  (?) 
bring  forward  as  an  argument,  cases  of  where  the 
continued  use  of  Coffee  has  become  in  time  in- 
jurious to  the  system,  it  has  been  owing  to  the 
fact  that  the  persons  in  question  have  been  in 
the  habit  of  using  badly  prepared  Coffee  with  a 
lot  of  rich  cream  as  the  customary  drink  with 
their  meals. 

On  the  other  hand,  a  small  cup  of  well-prepar- 
ed, good,  hot,  black  Coffee  taken  a  s.hort  time 
after  your  meals,  will  cause  a  pleasant  well-feel- 
ing and  contentment,  because,  taken  in  that  way, 
it  increases  the  secretion  of  gastric  juice,  and 
has  a  marvelous  effect  upon  the  digestion. 


HOW     TO     PREPARE     THE     BEVERAGE     FOR 
HOTELS,    OAFES    AND    RESTAURANTS 

Making  Coffee  in  a  Coffee  Urn  for  Hotels  or 
IRestaurants  is  decidedly  the  practical  way  to 
make  Coffee  in  an  Urn.  Coffee  that  will  please 
your  trade,  requires  first  a  clean  textile  bag  sus- 
pended about  two-thirds  of  the  way  to  the  bot- 
tom. 'Percolating  quietly  through  the  bag  and  re- 
pouring  is  the  only  process  known  giving  the  best 
results. 

Never  use  Urns  that  blow  steam  through  the 
'Coffee.  They  may  use  less  Coffee,  but  the  result- 
ing liquor  is  not  clear,  neither  is  it  aromatic. 
Filter  Paper  istrainers  are  frail,  and  do  not  allow 
the  Coffee  to  seep  through,  so  it  is  best  to  avoid 
the  method  that  employs  them. 

82 


HOW  COFFE  SHOULD  BE  ROASTED  AND 
GROUND 

The  Coffee  should  be  roasted  to  a  dark  chestnut 
color.  When  roasted  too  high,  the  beverage  be- 
comes bitter;  when  too  low,  It  tastes  raw. 

Grind  the  Coffee  so  as  to  resemble  granulated 
sugar.  Coarse  ground  Coffee  gives  little  strength, 
too  finely  ground  retards  filtering  and  frequently 
leaves  a  brackish  taste.  Watch  your  Coffee  mill 
closely,  adjust  and  oil  it  occasionally;  nearly  all 
mills  work  loose. 

Use  from  10  to  12  ounces  of  Coffee  to  each  gal- 
lon of  water  for  regular  Coffee,  and  from  12  to  16 
ounces  of  Coffee  to  each  gallon  of  water  for  after- 
dinner  Coffee. 

More  or  less  Coffee  may  be  used,  should  these 
amounts  not  suit  the  demand  of  your  trade. 

First  wet  or  moisten  the  bag  inside  the  Urn, 
then  pour  the  Coffee  in  the  bag;  pour  through  it 
bubbling  boiling  water,  use  no  other.  Simply  be- 
cause water  vaporizing  or  steaming  does  not  al- 
ways mean  that  it  is  at  the  boiling  point,  and  un- 
less it  is  at  the  bubbling  boiling  point,  it  will  not 
mix  with  the  oil  of  the  Coffee. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  important  essentials 
in  brewing  good  Coffee. 

Next  re-pour  the  liquid  Coffee  through  the 
grounds  until  all  the  liquid  has  been  through  the 
ground  Coffee  at  least  twise.  Let  this  stand  four 
or  five  minutes,  it  is  then  ready  to  serve  if  requir- 
ed. Nothing  is  needed  to  settle  it.  It  will  be 
perfectly  clear  but  not  so  strong  as  later.  The 
bag  containing  the  grounds  should  remain  in  the 
Urn  30  to  40  minutes,  but  no  longer. 

The  desired  strength  will  be  extracted  without 
any  bitterness  whatever,  if  these  instructions  are 
followed.  The  seeping  through  of  the  liquid  gives 
the  Coffee  that  desirable  cooked  taste. 

83 


THE  CARE  OF  BAGS  AND  URNS  IMPORTANT 

Wash  your  bags  thoroughly  in  hot  water,  but 
use  no  soap.  (A  small  pinch  of  soda  will  help.) 
Rinse  in  cold  water  and  let  them  remain  in  cold 
water  until  needed.  Dry  bags  absorb  every  odor 
of  the  kitchen.  Always  have  two  bags  for  each 
urn  in  use,  and  start  new  ones  every  Sunday  or  at 
any  rate  once  a  week. 

Wash  the  urns  every  night  with  soda  or  powder 
and  hot  water.  Rinse  them  with  hot  water,  then 
with  cold  water.  While  so  doing  leave  the  faucet 
open  and  the  lid  off  of  the  urn,  so  that  the  air 
may  circulate  freely. 

Always  serve  cream  with  your  Coffee  if  possible. 
Always  let  your  customer  (or  guest)  be  the  judge 
as  to  how  much  or  how  little.  He  unquestionably 
knows  his  individual  taste  and  requirements  better 
than  you.  At  most,  little  is  needed,  and  the  Coffee 
is  so  much  better  without  it.  Have  your  cups 
warm  and  your  pots  very,  very  hot.  China  pots 
are  the  best  to  be  used. 

By  taking  pains  and  following  the  directions 
as  above  given,  your  Coffee  thus  obtained  will 
help  materially  to  make  your  breakfast  trade 
grow.  It  is  the  Coffee,  Rolls  and  Butter  that  make 
it  successful. 


COFFEE  BLENDS  FOR  RESTAURANTS 

William  B.  Harris,  the  Government's  Coffee  ex- 
pert, believes  that  the  Coffee  of  prime  importance 
in  preparing  restaurant  blends  is  Bogota.  He  ad- 
vises the  use  of  a  full-bodied  Bogota  and  a  winey, 
Bourbon  Santos  in  the  proportion  of  75%  Bogota 
and  25%   Santos. 

Blends  may  also  be  made  up  from  combinations 
of  Bogota,  Mexicans  and  Guatemalas. 

According  to  Mr.  Harris,  the  average  blend  of 
good  Coffee  when  made  up  2^^  pounds  to  5  gallons 
of  water,  will  produce  a  liquor  of  good  color  and 


strength.  For  many  hotels,  however,  this  may  not 
answer,  as  it  is  not  heavy  enough. 

No  steward,  hotel  or  restaurant  man  should  ever 
advertise  Coffee  on  his  menu,  and  then  serve  a 
drink  employing  Chicory  (or  any  other  substitute), 
because,  while  there  is  no  Federal  law  against 
such  a  practice,  there  are  State  laws  against  it, 
and  every  customer  would  gladly  subscribe  to  a 
Moral  law  which  would  make  it  misbranding. 

Hotel  men  should  purchase  their  Coffee  in  the 
bean  and  do  their  own  grinding.  Then  they  need 
never  have  cause  to  complain  that  their  Coffee 
man  deceived  them,  or  that  some  salesman  mis- 
led them. 

The  hotel  steward)  wishing  to  serve  his  patrons 
with  a  good  heavy-bodied  Coffee,  particularly  a 
black  after-dinner  Coffee,  should  use  three,  four, 
or  even  four  and  a  half  pounds  of  ground  Coffee 
to  five  gallons  of  water. 

WAYS  SUGGESTED    FOR   SERVING   COFFEE. 
HONEY,  FOR  INSTANCE 

Perhaps  you  have  never  flavored  your  Coffee 
with  honey.  Yet  you  can  search  a  long  time  be- 
fore you  can  taste  anything  more  delicious  than 
a  perfect  cup  of  Coffee  sweetened  with  some  per- 
fect sweet  clover  honey.  Of  course,  you  would 
not  use  honey  in  the  comb.  Strained  honey,  or 
better  still,  the  newer  solidified,  or  granulated, 
honey  gives  the  best  results. 

The  Coffee  may  be  served  either  black  or  topped 
with  whipped  cream.  Probably,  served  in  this 
way,  the  Coffee  is  best  suited  to  after  lunch,  or 
after  tea,  service ;  without  the  cream,  it  may  take 
the  place  of  the  familiar  Cafe  Noir. 

There  is  no  better  luncheon  accompaniment  to 
the  honeyed  Coffee  than  some  delicious,  old-fash- 
ioned sponge  or  nut  cake. 

For  afternoon  tea,  try  it  with  cinnamon  toast, 
and  after  dinner  use  it  alone  with  its  delicious 
self, 

85 


MARSHMALLOWS,  A   DAINTY  SWEETENING 

Speaking  of  the  after-dinner  Coffee,  or  Coffee 
particularly  suited  to  party  service,  are  you  fa- 
miliar with  Marshmallows  as  sweetening  agent? 
No!  Well,  just  drop  two  in  a  medium-sized  cup, 
then  fill  it  with  Coffee.  The  result  will  be  a  de- 
lightful sweetness,  with  a  frothy  foam  on  the  top 
which  somewhat  resembles  cream.  If  you  like, 
you  can  add  a  little  plain  cream  also  to  the  bever- 
age, but  it  is  not  necessary. 

When  serving  this  at  dinner,  you  will  find  it 
^delicious  when  accompanied  by  some  simple  cake 
or  wafers,  flavored  with  vanilla  and  containing 
either  cocoanut  or  nuts. 

The  same  combination  would  be  suitable  for  a 
party,  or  a  little  French  pastry  could  be  used  if 
desired.  If  the  Coffee  is  served  from  the  pantry, 
a  dessert  spoonful  of  Marshmallow  Creme  to  the 
medium-sized  cup  may  be  used  instead  of  the 
Marshmallow  proper. 

One  of  the  reasons  why  Marshmallows  are  so 
well  adapted  to  Coffee  is  because  of  the  vanilla 
flavoring  which  they  contain.  Sometimes  a  drop 
or  two  of  this  extract  may  be  served  in  each  cup 
of  Coffee,  or  the  Coffee  may  be  topped  with  sweet- 
ened whipped  cream  flavored  with  vanilla,  as  is 
done  so  much  in  foreign  countries. 

In  this  case,  the  Coffee  should  be  served  as  a 
part  of  the  dessert,  because  the  whipped  cream  is 
so  rich. 

A  harmonious  accompaniment  to  this  consists 
of  fruit  tarts,  such  as  strawberry,  raspberry,  or 
little  orange  pies,  or  a  cake  or  cooky  which  is 
rather  highly  seasoned  with  spice. 


"COFFEE     MARASCHINO"    (Bone-dry) 

Now  that  the  old  type  of  Coffee,  with  brown 
sugar  and  brandy,  is  no  longer  being  served,  "Cof- 
fee  Maraschino"  will  undoubtedly  take  its  place, 

86 


especially  as  Maraschino  Cherries  are  now  being 
put  up  without  liquor. 

In  this  case,  a  demitasse  is  used,  the  Coffee 
being  flavored  with  a  little  of  the  liquid  from  the 
Maraschino  Cherries  and  a  cherry  or  two  being 
dropped  into  each  cup. 

Cream,  either  plain  or  whipped,  may  be  used  or 
not,  as  desired.  If  served  as  "black  Coffee'  at  the 
end  of  a  dinner,  there  should  be  no  accompani- 
ment, unless,  perhaps,  that  of  the  usual  bon-bons, 
but  if  served  as  part  of  the  dessert  course  at 
luncheon,  almost  any  kind  of  cake  is  a  suitable 
accompaniment,  except  one  containing  chocolate. 

But  in  any  case,  when  making  the  Coffee,  be 
sure  to  put  in  a  few  grains  of  salt. 


3ALT  TO  ''MELLOW"  COFFEE 

Have  you  ever  tried  adding  a  few  grains  of  salt 
to  your  cup  of  Coffee?  You  will  be  surprised  to 
find  how  the  flavor  is  improved.  It  attains  an  in- 
describable mellowness. 

Of  course,  there  is  a  reason,  and  in  this  case 
it  is  the  addition  of  just  the  right  amount  of 
alkali  to  neutralize  the  slight  acidity  of  the  Coffee 
(It  also  overcomes  the  more  or  less  raw  taste  pro- 
duced by  the  woody  fibre  of  the  Coffee)  for  all 
occasions,  and  it  is  absolutely  essential  when  Cof- 
fee is  used  as  the  flavoring  agent  of  various  des- 
serts, otherwise  the  taste  is  "empty." 


MAPLE  SUGAR 

Again,  have  you  ever  tried  Maple  Sugar  as  a 
Coffee  sweetener?  You  may  have  heard  of  it  dur- 
ing the  sugar  shortage  of  the  war,  and  afraid, 
perhaps,  that  it  would  not  taste  good,  and  clung 
tenaciously  to  your  white  sugar.  In  reality,  it  is 
delicious,  for  there  is  something  about  the  flavors 
of  Maple  and  Coffee  that  harmonize. 

87 


That  is  one  reason  why  a  cup  of  Coffee  and  a 
plate  of  griddle  cakes  or  waffles  with  Maple  Syrup 
is  a  perfect  combination. 

As  to  the  amount  of  Maple  Sugar  to  use  in 
sweetening  the  Coffee,  just  serve  it  in  the  sugar 
bowl,  broken  into  little  lumps,  and  appetite  will 
do  the  rest. 


FONDANT 

Brown  Sugar,  flavored  with  strong  Coffee  and 
cooked  with  a  pinch  of  cream  of  tartar,  makes  a 
delicious  fondant,  which  every  home  candy-maker 
should  know  about  during  the  white  sugar  short- 
age. 


COFFEE  FONDANT 

Three-quarters  cupful  very  strong,  hot  Coffee, 
2M»  cupfuls  brown  sugar,  %  teaspoonful  cream  of 
tartar. 

Combine  the  three  ingredients  in  a  very  smooth, 
clean  saucepan  and  stir  over  a  slow  heat  until 
they  are  dissolved;  heat  gradually  to  boiling  point, 
and  boil  without  stirring  until,  when  tried  in  cold 
water,  a  little  of  the  mixture  will  keep  its  shape 
in  the  form  of  a  soft  ball.  With  a  candy  ther- 
mometer the  temperature  will  be  238°  P.  Pour 
the  fondant  onto  a  slightly  buttered,  large  platter; 
let  it  stand  for  a  few  minutes  to  cool,  until,  when 
pressed  with  finger,  a  dent  is  left  on  the  surface 
and  yet  there  is  no  crust.  When  this  occurs, 
scrape  the  fondant  together  and  work  it  with  a 
wooden  spoon,  or  smooth  stick,  until  it  is  creamy 
in  color  and  texture.  When  it  becomes  creamy, 
begin  to  knead  it,  and  Knead  it  until  it  is  formed 
into  a  smooth  ball.  Put  it  into  a  bowl,  cover  it 
with  a  damp  cloth  and  let  it  stand  a  day  before 
using. 

If  desired,  this  fondant  may  be  flavored  in  dif- 

88 


ferent  ways,  and  the  best  time  to  add  the  flavoring 
is  just  before  it  is  kneaded.  A  few  drops  of  va- 
nilla may  be  put  in  one  portion,  a  drop  each  of 
clove  and  cinnamon  extract  in  another  portion, 
and  a  little  maple  flavoring  in  another.  The  fon- 
dant is  then  ready  to  use  in  any  way  desired. 


WAYS  TO   USE  COFFEE  FONDANT 

Shape  the  fondant  into  small,  round  balls;  let 
them  stand  a  few  hours  in  a  cool  place,  and  then 
dip  them  in  chocolate.  To  do  this,  cut  the  choco- 
late in  small  pieces,  using  preferably  confection- 
ers' dipping  chocolate,  which  may  be  purchased  at 
a  caterer's.  Put  it  in  a  double  boiler,  let  it  stand 
over  hot  water  until  melted,  then  beat  it  fre- 
quently until  cooled,  and  it  is  of  the  consistency 
of  molasses.  Dip  in  the  centers,  with  a  hat  pin; 
let  them  drain  a  moment,  and  then  transfer  them 
to  oiled  paper,  to  become  firm. 


COFFEE  FONDANT  SLICES 

.  Flavor  one-half  the  recipe  for  Coffee  Fondant 
with  Vanilla,  and  work  it  into  a  roll  about  as  wide 
in  diameter  as  a  half  dollar.  Let  this  stand  a  few 
hours,  dip  it  in  chocolate,  roll  in  finely-chopped 
walnuts,  and  when  firm,  cut  it  with  a  sharp  knife 
in  slices  a  fourth-inch  thick. 


COFFEE    BON-BONS 

Shape  the  centers  as  directed  in  Ways  to  Use 
Coffee  Fondant,  and  dip  them,  after  standing  a  few 
hours,  in  plain  or  Raspberry  Fondant,  melted  to 
the  consistency  of  very  thick  cream. 

89 


COFFEE   MAPLE  CHOCOLATES 

Combine  equal  parts  of  Coffee  Fondant  with 
soft,  grated  maple  sugar.  Shape  into  small  balls 
and  dip  into  chocolate,  as  previously  directed,  or 
merely  roll  in  finely-chopped,  toasted  almonds  or 
Brazil  nuts. 


QUICK  COFFEE  FONDANT 

One  tablespoonful  butter,  2  tablespoonfuls  very 
strong  Coffee,  1  tablespoonful  cream  or  undiluted 
evaporated  milk,  1-3  teaspoonful  vanilla  extract, 
soft  brown  sugar  to  knead  (from  2^2  to  3  cupfuls). 

Cream  the  butter  in  a  rather  deep,  medium-sized 
bowl,  and  with  a  wooden  spoon  work  in  a  little  of 
the  sugar.  Then  gradually  add  the  Coffee  and 
evaporated  milk,  mixed  with  the  vanilla,  alter- 
nately with  sufficient  sugar  to  make  the  mixture 
stiff  enough  to  knead.  Knead  well,  cover  with  a 
damp  cloth  and  let  stand  for  a  little  while.  Then 
use  in  any  recipe  calling  for  Coffee  Fondant. 


COFFEE    MARSHMALLOW    FUDGE 

One-half  cupful  very  strong  Coffee,  2  cupfuls 
light- brown  sugar,  1-3  tablespoonful  butter  or  good 
margarine,  i/^  teaspoonful  vanilla,  Vs  teaspoonful 
cream  of  tartar,  a  few  grains  of  salt,  %  cupful 
fresh  marshmallows  cut  in  quarters. 

Combine  the  sugar,  cream  of  tartar,  salt,  butter 
and  coffee  in  a  medium-sized  saucepan  and  cook 
without  stirring  over  moderate  heat  until  a  soft 
ball  is  formed  when  a  little  is  tried  in  cold  water. 
A  candy  thermometer  will  register  238°  F.  Cool 
slightly  but  do  not  let  a  crust  form.  Then  add  the 
marshmallows  and  vanilla,  beat  until  creamy  and 
pour  into  a  buttered  pan  to  cool,  making  a  mixture 
about  a  half-inch  deep.  Before  it  is  entirely  cold 
cut  it  into  squares.  Chopped  nut-meats  may  be 
substituted  for  the  marshmallows  if  desired. 

90 


COFFEE  COCOANUT  PRALINES 

Observe  the  proportions  and  directions  for  mak- 
ing Coffee  Marshmallow  Fudge,  but  omit  the 
marshmallows.  Just  before  removing  the  mixture 
from  the  heat,  add  a  cupful  of  shredded  cocoanut. 
When  tepid,  beat  the  mixture  until  creamy  and 
drop  it  by  tablespoonfuls  onto  oiled  paper,  for 
Pralines  are  always  large. 


COFFEE   NUT   PRALINES 

Make  according  to  the  directions  for  Coffee 
Cocoanut  Pralines,  substituting  a  cupful  of  chopped 
walnut  meats  for  the  cocoanut. 


CREAM  COFFEE  DROPS 

One-half  cupful  very  strong  Coffee,  2  cupfuls 
light-brown  sugar,  Vs  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar, 
a  choice  of  vanilla,  cinnamon  and  clove,  or  maple 
flavoring. 

Combine  all  the  ingredients,  except  the  flavor- 
ing, in  a^  medium-sized  saucepan;  stir  over  a  slow 
heat  until  dissolved,  then  do  not  stir  any  further, 
but  cook  until  a  soft  ball  is  formed  when  a  little 
of  the  mixture  is  tried  in  cold  water — that  is,  238° 
F.  by  the  candy  thermometer.  Cool  until  lukewarm, 
flavor,  beat  until  creamy,  transfer  to  a  small 
pitcher  and  drop  onto  oiled  paper,  in  amounts 
large  enough  to  form  candies  of  the  shape  of  an 
ordinary  cream  peppermint. 


COFFEE  CHOCOLATE  CARAMELS 

One-third  cupful  very  strong  Coffee,  1-3  cupful 
rich  milk,  2-3  cupful  molasses,  3  cupfuls  brown 
sugar,  3  squares  (oz.)  chocolate,  7  tablespoonfuls 
butter,  or  half  butter  and  half  very  good  marga- 
rine,   ^2    teaspoonful   vanilla,   1    cupful    coarsely- 

91 


chopped  walnut  or  hickory  nut-meats,  pecans  or 
toasted,  chopped  Brazil  nuts. 

Combine  all  the  ingredients,  except  the  nut- 
meats  and  vanilla,  and  boil  them  slowly  until, 
when  a  little  is  tried  in  cold  water,  a  ball  of  cara- 
mel texture  is  formed,  248°  F.  by  the  candy  ther- 
mometer. Flavor,  stir  in  the  nuts,  beat  a  moment, 
then  pour  into  a  good-sized  bread  pan,  which  has 
been  lined  with  wax  paper.  The  niixture  should 
be  an  inch  deep.  When  half  cold,  cut  in  squares. 
Then  transfer  in  the  sheet  to  a  bread  board,  cut 
and  wrap  each  one  separately  in  waxed  paper  be- 
fore packing. 


n 


EARLY    HISTORY    AND    MYTHICAL    LEGENDS 
OF  THE  TEA  PLANT 

The  first  discovery  of  the  virtue  of  the  beverage 
obtained  by  the  infusion  of  Tea-leaves  in  v^rater,  is 
hidden  in  the  obscurity  of  ancient  history. 

One  Chinese  tradition  gives  the  credit  to  some 
Buddhist  priests,  who,  unable  to  use  the  brackish 
water  near  their  temple,  steeped  in  it  the  leaves 
of  a  shrub  growing  in  the  vicinity,  with  the  inten- 
tion of  correcting  the  unpleasant  properties.  The 
experiment  was  so  successful  that  they  spread  the 
news  among  their  neighbors  and  subsequently  en- 
gaged in  the  extensive  cultivation  of  the  plant. 

Another  Legend  of  the  Origin  of  Tea.  The 
Chinese  have  a  legend  purporting  to  account  for 
the  origin  of  Tea  in  China.  Owing  to  the  dense 
population  and  poor  sanitation,  frequent  epidemics 
of  typhoid  and  other  fevers  were  prevalent  and 
nearly  wiped  out  at  times  large  sections  of  the 
population.  The  wise  men  of  the  empire  were 
called  together  to  suggest  a  remedy.  They  found 
that  the  drinking  waters  were  polluted,  but  by 
boiling  these  waters  before  drinking  practically  all 
danger  was  removed.  An  edict  went  forth  that, 
throughout  the  kingdom,  the  people  should  boil 
their  water  'before  drinking.  By  strict  obedience 
to  this  law  the  epidemic  and  fevers  ceased.  But 
the  people  grew  careless,  the  law  was  violated, 
more  and  more,  and  again  the  disorders  appeared. 
The  wise  men  were  again  called  to  overcome  the 
difficulty.  They  «were  sent  in  search  of  an  herb 
whose  delicious  flavors  could  only  be  brought  out 
by  boiling  water,  and  the  search  resulted  In  the 
discovery  of  the  now  famous  Tea  plant. 

As  mythology  plays  its  part  in  the  earliest  rec- 
ords of  Tea,  the  fable  in  this  case  is  credited  to  a 
Dutch  traveler  named  Koempfer,  who  relates  how 
a  Buddhist  monk  came  to  China  from  India  some- 
time during  the  fifth  century  of  the  Christian  era, 
and,  vexed  at  having  slumbered  during  a  night  of 

93 


vigil  and  prayer,  cut  off  his  eyelids,  casting  them 
on  the  ground,  whence  immediately  sprang  up  two 
Tea  plants. 

This  legend  has  often  been  repeated  in  popular 
works,  as  not  only  prefiguring  the  anti-somnolent 
properties  of  the  leaf,  but  as  affording  readdi- 
tional  evidence  of  the  source  and  probable  period 
of  introduction  of  the  Tea  plant  into  the  Flowery 
Kingdom. 

In  China,  however,  this  legend  seems  altogether 
unknown,  while  the  plant  itself  has  been  known 
there  from  remote  ages. 

Another  record  attributes  its  discovery,  about 
2737  B.  C,  to  'Chin  Nung,  a  celebrated  scholar  and 
philosopher,  to  whom  nearly  all  agricultural  and 
medical  knowledge  is  traced  in  China. 

In  replenishing  a  fire  made  of  the  branches  of 
the  Tea  plant,  some  of  the  leaves  fell  into  the 
vessel  in  which  he  (was  boiling  water  for  his  even- 
ing meal.  The  consumption  of  the  beverage  thus 
formed,  the  first  "Pot  of  Tea",  proved  so  exhili- 
rating  in  effect  that  he  formed  the  habit  of  so 
using  the  leaves.  Later  he  imparted  to  others  the 
knowledge  thus  accidentally  gained,  and  in  a  short 
time  it  became  the  common  property  of  the  Em- 
pire. 

China  is  quite  generally  acknowledged  as  the 
birth  place  of  the  Tea  industry.  Some  writers 
reason  that  the  honor  belongs  to  India  or  Japan, 
but  other  authorities  name  the  thirteenth  century 
as  seeing  the  first  use  of  Tea  in  the  latter  country. 

Dr.  Bretschneider  is  credited  with  having  dis- 
covered the  earliest  recorded  mention  of  Tea  in 
literature,  who,  towards  the  latter  end  of  the  last 
century  was  physician  to  the  Russian  legation  at 
Pekin. 

The  doctor  probed  deeply  into  ancient  Chinese 
literature,  and  discovered  a  reference  to  Tea  in  a 
Chinese  compilation^  known  as  the  Pent  Sao,  2700 
B.  C,  while  in  a  work  dated  400  A.  D.  a  full  de- 
scription of  the  plant  and  the  present  modes  of 

94 


infusion  were  found.  Its  antiquity  in  China  is 
practically  undoubted,  and  the  probability  is  that 
its  introduction  into  Japan  took  place  at  a  later 
period,  but  we  can  only  surmise  as  to  that. 

What  is  known,  however,  is  that  the  Tea  plant 
was  found  in  1824  or  thereabouts,  growing  wild  in 
the  forests  of  Assam,  apparently  in  an  indigenous 
state.  These  forests  clothe  the  hills  which  form 
the  boundary  between  India  and  China,  and  it  is 
fair  assumption  that  the  plant  or  its  seed  was 
thousands  of  years  ago  exported  from  India  into 
China,  where  it  became  an  important  industry. 

Tea  was  brought  to  Europe  in  the  Sixteenth 
Century,  the  Dutch  East  India  Company  intro- 
ducing it  into  Holland. 

The  first  authenticated  mention  of  it  in  England 
is  in  the  year  16'57,  at  which  time  it  was  considered 
a  very  rare  luxury.  It  was  known  as  early  as 
1680  in  the  American  Colonies,  selling  at  from  five 
to  six  dollars  a  pound  for  the  cheapest  varieties. 

Its  use  was  for  many  years  widely  condemned 
by  writers  and  preachers,  who  attributed  to  it  nu- 
merous qualities  inimical  to  health,  morals  and  the 
public  order,  but  that  attitude  was  long  ago  rele- 
gated to  oblivion,  and  the  enormous  quantity  now 
consumed  places  it  among  the  most  important  of 
food  articles. 

Its  title  comes  from  "Te",  the  Chinese  name  for 
Tea  in  Amoy  dialect.  In  other  parts  of  China  it  is 
known  as  Ta,  Cha,  Dzo,  etc. 

In  its  wild  state  the  Tea  plant  is  a  small  ever- 
green tree,  of  which  there  are  several  varieties, 
and  similar  in  appearance  to  the  Camellia,  to 
which  it  is  botanically  related.  The  Assam  type 
in  its  wild  state  grows  to  a  height  of  fifteen  to 
thirty  feet,  with  numerous  branches  and  a  wealth 
of  lance-like  leaves,  which  often  attain  a  length  of 
six  to  nine  inches. 

The  China  varieties  and  the  numerous  crosses 
are  more  dwarf  in  habit  and  of  smaller  leaf.    The 

95 


rather  large,  white,  fragrant  flowers  grow  singly, 
or  two  together,  in  the  axils  of  the  leave?:. 
.    Under  cultivation,  the  shrubs  are  not  allowed  to 
exceed  three  to  five  feet  in  height,  and  flowering 
is  permitted  only  for  seed  purposes. 

If  the  Tea  bush  was  not  continually  plucked 
over,  for  its  leaves,  it  would  grow  into  a  tall, 
willowy  tree.  The  bushes  are  frequently  allowed 
to  grow  in  this  way  (without  plucking),  as  seed- 
bearing  plants,  and  it  is  from  the  unplucked  trees 
that  the  seed  is  gathered.  The  fiowers  first  ap- 
pear, then  the  pod  containing  the  seeds,  which' 
are  three  small  nuts  like  filberts,  and  have  an  oily, 
bitter  taste,  and  usually  ripen  in  October. 

Before  planting,  the  seed  is  tested  to  find  out  its 
germinating  qualities,  and  then  placed  in  seed 
beds,  which  are  carefully  shaded  from  the  fierce 
heat  of  the  Sun,  until  the  young  plant  is  old  enough 
to  be  transplanted  into  the  field,  garden,  or  planta- 
tion. At  this  time  the  plant  is  usually  ten  to 
twelve  inches  high,  and  when  it  is  about  four 
years  old  it  bears  its  first  crop,  locality,  soil,  etc,, 
being  the  determining  factor  to  some  extent,  but  a 
year  or  more  before  the  crop  is  expected,  it  is  cut 
down  to  a  foot  or  less.  It  is  again  cut  down  to 
about  two  feet  three  months  before  gathering,  the 
object  being  to  make  the  bush  spread  and  to  stim- 
ulate the  fullest  possible  growth  of  the  "flushes" 
or  young  shoots  which  furnish  the  tender,  succu- 
•lent  new  leaves  desired. 

After  this  operation,  it  is  plucked  regularly  for 
eighteen  months  to  two  years,  the  bushes  yielding 
new  "flushes"  at  frequent  intervals,  when  it  is 
again  pruned  back  to  allow  it  to  rest. 

With  proper  care  and  under  favoroble  conditions 
its  bearing  life  is  practically  unlimited. 

The  whole  process  of  cultivation  is  to  insure 
regular,  frequent  and  vigorous  "flushing".  From 
the  upper  part  or  flat  surface  of  the  bush  there 
continually  sprout  out  long,  green,  tender  shoots 
bearing  young  leaves.    The  bud  at  the  tip,  and  one, 

96 


two  or  three  leaves  below  it  are  nipped  off  by  the 
skillful  fingers  of  a!  coolie  woman  or  child.  (The 
plucking  is  usually  delegated  to  women  and  chil- 
dren.) 

When  the  bud  and  one  leaf  is  taken,  the  pluck- 
ing is  termed  "fine";  when  two  leaves  are  taken, 
"medium",  and  when  three,  "coarse". 

Medium  plucking  is  generally  practiced.  The 
foregoing  system  of  plucking  applies  particularly 
to  Indian,  Ceylon  and  Java  Teas,  and  is  practically 
applicable  to  all  other  Tea  plants.  Only  the  shoots 
mentioned  above  are  gathered  as  a  rule,  and  care 
is  taken  to  avoid  damaging  the  leaf -bud  in  the 
axil  below  the  leaves  taken,  as  that  in  its  turn 
soon  develops  into  a  new  "flush".  Of  course,  the 
whole  "flush"  may  be  taken  or  only  the  choicer 
upper  part,  according  both  to  the  size  of  the  shoot 
and  the  minimum  grade  leaf  desired. 

The  rapidity  and  accuracy  of  the  experienced 
"picker"  is  almost  incredible. 

The  young  leaves  of  all  varieties  are  very  simi- 
lar in  general  appearance  when  fresh  plucked.  The 
larger  leaves  differ  considerably  in  general  propor- 
tions, but  they  always  retain  the  characteristic 
construction  which  renders  it  easy  to  detect  the 
addition  of  leaves  from  other  plants. 

The  quality  of  the  Tea  leaf  before  preparation 
depends  on:  (1)  The  locality  (even  the  poorest 
product  of  an  upland  garden  is  often  choicer  than 
the  best  low-lying  garden) ;  (2)  soil  composition 
(minerals  contained  for  this  play  an  important 
part  in  determining  flavor) ;  (3)  selection  of  the 
leaves  (by  including  some  of  the  older  leaves  the 
crop  may  be  greatly  increased,  but  the  grade  is 
correspondingly  lowered) ;  and  (4)  the  judgment 
exercised  in  the  time  of  plucking. 

The  weather  also  exerts  a  great  influence.  When 
the  rain  falls  equably  and  a  bright  sun  appears 
after  heavy  showers,  the  plants  become  rich  with 
new  shoots,  and  the  leaves  bright  green,  elastic  in 
texture  and  rich  in  flavor. 

97 


When  too  much  rain  falls  at  one  time,  shoots 
and  leaves  became  hardenedi  and  less  flexible.  If 
there  is  too  little  moisture,  they  become  stunted 
and  sapless. 

In  Ceylon,  where  there  is  no  Winter,  the  picking 
takes  place  every  eight  to  ten  days  all  the  year 
round,  but  in  China  and  Japan  there  are  four  prin- 
cipal harvest  periods. 

The  earliest  buddings,  pale-green  and  very  deli- 
cate, are  gathered  in  the  beginning  of  April,  and 
are  termed  "first-picking.  In  China,  these,  as  a 
Irule,  realize  high  prices  and  are  consumed  chiefly 
by  the  wealthy  classes  in  China  and  Russia,  very 
little  reaching  other  markets. 

The  first  general  gathering  commences  in  May, 
and  it  is  from  this  collection  that  we  receive  the 
finest  China  Tea  of  commerce,  known  to  the  trade 
as  "first  crop  tea".  Then  follows  the  later  picking, 
known  as  ''second  crop  tea",  and  again  a  third  and 
fourth,  the  crop  gradually  becoming  lower  in  qual- 
ity as  the  season  proceeds,  a  large  percentage  of 
the  late  harvests  being  consumed  locally  and  made 
into  "Brick  Tea". 

All  kinds  of  Tea  comes  from  the  same  shrubs, 
the  main  difference  between  "Green"  and  "Black" 
being  that  Black  Tea  is  fermented  and  Green  Tea 
is  not.  The  number  of  varieties  of  prepared  Tea, 
'both  Green  and  Black,  is  due  to  the  sorting  of  the 
leaves  into  different  sizes,  and  to  local  difference 
in  making  and  blending. 

Prior  to  the  sorting,  the  freshly-picked  shoots 
undergo  four  main  processes,  if  Black  Tea  is  re- 
quired: withering,  rolling,  fermenting  and  firing. 
For  green  Tea,  fermenting  is  omitted. 

The  shoots  for  Black  Tea  are  first  spread  on 
shelves  of  wire  or  jute-hessian  to  ''wither",  the 
object  being  to  allow  the  sap  and  other  moisture 
to  evaporate  until  the  leaf  is  soft  and  flaccid  for 
"twisting"  in  the  rollers.  The  shelves  are  very 
loosely  woven,  so  that  the  air  can  pass  through 
them  freely. 

98 


The  time  required  for  this  process  varies  widely, 
sometimes  twenty-four  hours,  occasionally  much 
longer.  If  the  weather  is  damp,  artificial  heat  is 
generally  employed. 

For  Green  Tea,  in  order  to  avoid  fermentation, 
steaming  for  a  short  time  is  substituted  for  the 
withering  process. 

The  withering  shoots  are  put  through  rollers, 
which  squeeze  out  any  excess  moisture  and  give 
the  "twist"  which  results  in  the  characteristic 
form  of  the  prepared  leaf.  The  appearance  of  the 
leaf  or  **roir',  as  it  is  technically  termed,  when 
taken  out  of  the  roller,  is  a  mess  of  mashy  lumps. 
This  is  put  through  a  roll-breaker,  which  breaks 
up  the  lumps  and  sifts  the  detached  leaves  and 
young  stems  through  the  wire  mesh  into  cloths 
^placed  below  to  receive  them. 

For  the  Green  Tea,  the  product  from  the  roll- 
breaker  immediately  undergoes  "firing". 

For  Black  Tea,  it  is  spread  out  in  wooden  frames, 
covered  with  wet  clothes  and  allowed  to  ferment 
until  the  leaves  attain  a  bright  copper  tint,  the 
color  which  they  should  have  in  the  tea-pot  after 
infusion.  Th^  extent  to  which  fermentation  is 
permitted  is  determined  by  -the  smell  and  appear- 
ance of  the  leaf,  points  that  require  experienced 
judgment,  as  too  little  means  rawness  and  bitter- 
ness, and  any  excess  destroys  much  or  all  of  the 
flavor. 

For  "firing"  the  Tea  is  spread  thinly  upon  wire 
trays  and  placed  in  the  siracco  or  desiccator,  where 
a  current  of  hot  air,  from  190°  to  240°  F.  passes 
through  it.  It  emerges  thoroughly  dry  and  brittle, 
the  finished  Tea,  requiring  only  sorting  and  pack- 
ing to  be  ready  for  market.  About  4200  pounds 
of  green  shoots  are  required  to  make  1,000  pounds 
of  the  prepared  article. 

After  cooling  over  night,  the  Tea  goes  to  the 
sifter,,  a  machine  with  a  series  of  sloping  sieves, 
one  above  the  other. 
^  The  sieves  are  shaken  by  engine  or  motor  power, 


at  a  very  high  speed,  and  the  tea  falls  through 
from,  one  sieve  to  another,  each  sieve  retaining  a 
different  size,  and  emptying  itself  into  a  chest 
through  a  spout  at  the  low  end. 

The  leaves  and  stems  retained  hy  the  top  sieve: 
ie.,  the  largest,  form  the  ''ordinary"  grades  of  Tea. 
Each  size  smaller  is  correspondingly  choicer,  ex- 
cepting the  last,  known  as  "dust"  or  "dust  and 
sittings"  or  ''tannings",  sold  at  low  prices. 

The  second  sieve  retains  (in  Black  Tea)  Pekoe 
or  Pekoe  Souchong,  according  to  the  crop  or  the 
estate  policy;  the  third,  Pekoe  or  Orange  Pekoe; 
and  the  fourth,  Orange  Pekoe  or  Broken  Orange 
Pekoe,  or  "Flowery  Pekoe"  (so  called  because  of 
its  cup  quality). 

The  term  "Pekoe"  refers  to  the  downy  appear- 
ance of  the  undersides  and  ends  of  the  young 
leaves,  and  "'Orange"  to  the  color  of  the  ends  of 
the  still  newer  leaves  and  to  the  "tips"  or  leaf- 
buds,  which  look  like  little  chips  of  wood  and  are 
also  commercially  classed  as   "Golden   Tips". 

The  tips  give  the  tea  a  good  appearance  and  add 
greatly  to  its  strength  and  flavor.  They  are  some- 
times separated  and  offered  as  Pure  Golden  Tips, 
selling  in  London  for  as  high  as  fifty  dollars  a 
pound. 

When  the  sorting  is  done  largely  by  hand,  as  in 
China  and  Japan,  the  size  grades  are  much  more 
numerous. 

Caper  is  a  Black  Tea  very  much  resembling  the 
green  Gunpowder  in  shape. 

In  the  Green  Teas,  the  sorting  produces  the  dif- 
ferent sizes  of  Gunpowder,  Young  Hyson,  etc.  (See 
China  (Creep  Teas.) 

Uncolored  Oreen  Tea  varies  in  tint  from  yellow 
to  greenish  brown.  The  grey-green  of  the  China 
and  Japan  Teas  imported  prior  to  May  1,  1911, 
was  due  to  the  addition  of  a  minute  quantity  of 
coloring  powder  during  the  firing. 

The   various    grades,   after   a   frequent   supple- 

100 


mentary  picking  o ve^^  by  .ii&nd^  «r^  4«y;  iiy^  <iay, 
stored  away  in  their  separate  bins,  until  there  is 
enough  to  make  what  is  known  technically  as  a 
**break",  5,000>  pounds  and  upwards. 

The  next  operation  is  bulking.  The  whole  con- 
tents of  the  bins  of  one  grade  are  thrown  together 
and  agitated  by  scoops  or  shovels  until  so  thor- 
oughly, mixed  that  each  pound  of  Tea  will  be  the 
same  as  another  in  flavor  and  appearance.  Finally 
comes  the  packing  in  chests,  cans  and  packages, 
the  Tea  in  the  first  two  cases  being  shaken  down 
to  make  it  lay  close.  The  numerous  processes  of 
preparation  are  responsible  for  the  broken  condi- 
tion of  most  of  the  leaves  in  the  product  finally 
marketed. 

Most  of  the  Tea  dust  which  accumulates  in  man- 
ufacture and  as  the  result  of  transportation  and 
commercial  handling,  is  of  very  fine  quality.  If  pro^ 
tected  from  contamination,  and  properly  cared  for 
in  other  respects,  it  makes  good  liquor. 

There  is  strong  prejudice  against  its  use  in 
America,  partly,  perhaps,  because  it  lends  itself 
so  readily  to  adulterations,  but  in  England  it  com- 
mands a  ready  sale,  as,  used  in  the  correct  pro- 
portions, it  improves  the  blend,  adding  to  its 
strength  and  pungency.  In  Tea-growing  countries 
it  is  a  common  practice  to  pulverize  the  leaves 
by  rubbing  in  the  hand,  dropping  the  powder  into 
the  drinking  cups  in  which  it  is  steeped. 

The  foregoing  description  gives  a  general  idea 
of  the  method  now  employed  in  making  India  and 
Ceylon  Teas,  both  Black  and  Green,  but  the  prin- 
ciples used  are  those  also  used  in  the  preparation 
of  China  and  Japan  Teas,  the  chief  difference 
being  that  in  the  two  latter  countries  machinery 
playd  a  comparatively  unimportant  part.  Much  of 
the  firing  is  done  in  pots,  bowls  or  baskets  over 
charcoal  fires,  and  the  twisting  by  placing  the 
leaves  in  bags  and  rolling  them  with  the  hands. 

In  China  there  la  a  strong  contrast  between  the 
busy  season  and  the  slack  time  which  follows  it. 

101 


Irf^n-^Jp^^r^stifi^  article,- published  prior  to  the 
recent  introduction  of  modern  methods,  the  Foo- 
chow  Herald  said:  "A  Tea  -packing  house  at  this 
season  presents  a  very  different  scene  from  that 
of  two  months  before.  Then  one  found  long  lines 
of  catty  boxes  waiting  to  be  soldered  up.  Now 
none.  Next,  one  found  fat  bags  stacked  up  eight 
or  ten  feet  high,  bursting  with  Tea  that  escaped 
here  and  there  through  holes  temporarily  stopped 
with  bamboo  leaves;  the  bottom  of  the  bags 
mostly  stained  from  contact  with  wet  flights  of 
mountain  stairs  upon  which  the  exhausted  coolies 
had  set  them  down  on  the  passage.  Now  one 
finds  but  empty  chests,  hundreds  in  number." 

"Farther  on,  one  came  to  the  dozen  long  rows 
of  sifters  facing  each  other,  forty  in  a  row,  the 
mesh  of  some  taking  a  pencil,  that  of  others  re- 
fusing a  pencil  point,  sifting  Tea  leaf,  rough  and 
bold,  that,  after  a  persuasive  grasp  or  two  of  the 
hand,  broke  and  consented,  after  a  few  shakes  of 
the  sieve,  to  be  stripped  of  some  of  the  sappy 
leaf-edges  and  leaf-ends,  and  to  appear  below,  the 
even  and  uniform  leaf  which  the  Tea-drinker  in- 
sists he  must  have  (plus  the  dust  due  to  the  per- 
suading). The  transformation  in  a  rough  leaf  in 
passing  through  the  meshes  of  a  coarse  sieve, 
with  a  gentle  crush  from  the  sifter's  hand,  en- 
hances a  rough,  bold  Tea  very  considerably  in 
value." 

"In  place  of  the  rows  of  men  then  seen  tilting 
and  jerking  their  sieves  in  a  monotony  only 
broken  by  the  contonese  taskmaster's  roll-call 
twice  a  day  before  the  general  meal  of  fish  and 
rice,  there  is  now  to  be  seen  only  the  bare  floor 
of  hardened  earth,  piles  of  empty  benches  stacked 
in  a  corner  and  the  sieves  of  the  twelve  different 
sizes  used,  each  in  its  division  in  the  three-story 
stands." 

"The  dozen  or  score  of  fanning  mills  are  still, 
too.  The  Tea-leaf  separated  in  these  fanning  mills 
has  been  sold,  and  the  mills  will  rest  until  another 

102 


May  shall  bring  courage  back  to  the  pale  and  dis- 
pirited native  teamen." 

"There  are  stacked  in  this  huge  gc-down,  a  few 
hundred  packages  of  the  native  maker's  brick  Tea 
wrapped  in  plaited  bamboo  strips,  bound  in  half 
bamboo  and  triply  rattaned.  Aside  here,  its  manu- 
facture still  continues.  The  Chinese  upper  mill- 
stone is  being  turned  upon  the  nether  by  a  China- 
man (Who  is  grinding  Tea  seeds  left  by  a  fanning 
mill,  and  in  these  sycee-boxes  sharp  spades  are 
falling  upon  the  stems,  chopping  them  fine  enough 
to  go  into  the  stemmy,  dusty  mixture  to  which  the 
seed  dust  gives  the  strength,  while  the  chapped 
stems  vouch  for  its  being  Tea." 

"In  the  firing  house  are  the  four  Chinese  rice 
kettles,  two  feet  across  the  mouth,  which,  when 
in  use,  set  obliquely  upon  edge,  turn  the  Tea  back 
in  a  shower  over  the  hand  of  the  stirrer,  a  wood 
fire  being  kept  up  in  the  brick  work  underneath." 

"Fire  holes  also,  scores  in  number,  follow  in 
rows  the  walls  of  the  firing  house,  in  each  an  iron 
charcoal,  pan.  Over  each  of  these  fires  is  a  huge 
hourglass-shaped  basket-hood  or  muffler  that  shuts 
in  all  the  heat  of  each  fire  to  but  one  outlet,  that 
through  the  Tea  sieve  which  chokes  the  throat  of 
each  basket.  In  these  baskets  is  dried  the  Tea 
that  comes  in  from  the  hills,  wet  or  flat  from 
constant  downpour  and  from  the  first  fermenta- 
tion of  the  leaf." 

"Here,  too,  on  the  floor  above,  the  benches  are 
empty,  the  benches  where  girls  and  women  came 
to  sort  the  rough  stems  from  the  leaf,  getting  half 
a  cent  for  removing  them  from  the  two  catties  of 
Tea  apportioned  to  them,  in  wound  bamboo-woven 
trays." 

"The  floor  is  now  bare  where  we  then  saw  the 
ninghteh  Tea  brought  to  a  uniform  shade,  by  shak- 
ing the  bags  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  lamp  black, 
then  bulked  upon  the  floor,  to  be  strewn  white  as  a 
spring  grave  with  the  pure  Muhli  blossoms;  the 
blossoms  in  turn  hurried  under  another  avalanche 

103 


of  funeral  Tea,  and  this  again  with  blossoms,  life 
upon  death,  then  both  rudely  mingled  together 
and  put  away  in  boxes  for  a  night  till  the  fra- 
grance had  been  robbed  by  the  dead  Tea,  the  faded 
flowers  being  finally  thrown  aside,  spent  and 
worthless." 

"Our  round  finished  at  the  shed,  where,  out  of 
long  sheets  of  lead,  Chinese  lads  were  glibly  mak- 
ing lead  cases  by  molding  them,*hatter  like,  upon 
a  box,  and  then  running  the  soldering  iron  along 
the  edges.  Other  Chinamen,  in  their  natal  cos- 
tume, were  washing  off  the  dust  and  sweat  of  the 
day  at  a  huge  four-hogshead  vat  of  hot  water. 
There,  too,  were  piles  of  wood  for  the  hot  tea  cop- 
pers, crates  of  up  river  hardwood  charcoal  for  the 
firing  pans  and  the  firing  baskets." 

"We  must  leave  without  the  sight  we  then  had  of 
the  mad  dervish  dance  of  two  Chinese,  who  given 
a  dozen  pounds  of  tea  stems  in  a  tray  under  their 
sandals  perform  about  the  interior  periphery  of  a 
double  shuffle,  twist  and  grind  that  is  cooler  for 
the  spectator,  the  thermometer  in  the  nineties, 
than  for  the  performers  from  whose  bodies  the 
perspiration  rolls  into  the  tea  stems  below." 

"The  box  factory  is  elsewhere.  We  enter  on  our 
homeward  way.  It  is  in  another  old  disused  tea 
hong,  occupied  by  foreigners  in  the  days  when 
money  was  made,  tumbled  down  now  and  abandon- 
ed to  Chinese.  Inside  a  few  Chinese  youths,  eat- 
ing a  dollar's  worth  of  rice  per  month,  were  rap- 
idly gluing  and  dove-tailing  together,  by  rough 
wholesale  strokes,  boxes  by  the  score.  Few  nails 
are  used,  for  these  are  hand-made  and  cannot  be 
afforded.  What  a  bungling  "mending"  the  mer- 
chant pays  for  when  these  frail  cases  reach  the 
land  of  rough  usage  and  coarse  nails." 

"There  you  saw  a  bit  of  thin  teakwood;  there 
a  bit  of  paper  gaudily  daubed  with  cardinal  colors, 
a  stroke  or  two,  side  marries  end,  the  gaudy  paper 
cover  hides  all  joints,  and  the  catty  boxes,  gay 

104 


with  bird,  butterfly,  dragon  and  phoenix,  are  en 
route  to  be  stared  at  in  a  far  off  grocer's  window." 

"Every  season  sees  vast  quantities  of  tea  pass 
through  the  sieves  in  hundreds  of  packing  houses, 
some  in  hamlets  in  the  hills,  some,  as  in  Foochow, 
in  cities  ten  to  fifty  miles  from  the  hills,  much  of  it 
brought  in  by  women  who  have  carried  it  up  and 
down  the  mountain  pathways,  twenty-five  miles  a 
day,  regardless  of  their  bent  backs,  their  only  food 
often  a  double  handful  of  salt  to  bite  before  they 
drink." 

"Probably  all  tea  leaving  Foochow  has  been  lifted 
up  and  down  as  much  as  if  it  had  been  carried  up 
one  side  of  the  great  pyramid  and  down  the  other 
a  score  of  times.  Boatmen  at  river  marts  have 
fought  pitched  battles  for  it,  their  livelihood  de- 
pending upon  its  transport,  and  plenty  of  their 
men  have  been  ready,  to  fight  for  the  privilege  of 
carrying  it,  women,  also  under  their  loads,  be- 
hind their  husbands." 

The  foregoing  picture  relates  to  tea  making  in 
1874.  Modern  methods  have  already  been  describ- 
ed. 


CONSUMPTION   AND  PRINCIPAL  VARIETIES 

The  consumption  of  Green  Tea,  twenty  or  thirty 
years  ago  the  standard  variety,  has  to  a  consid- 
erable extent  given  place  to  the  taste  for  Black 
Tea. 

An  equally  important  commercial  change  has 
been  the  increase  in  favor  of  Ceylon  and  India 
Teas,  (also  the  better  grades  of  Java  Teas)  at 
the  expense  of  the  China  and  Japanese  varieties. 
Imports  from  the  two  last  named  countries  have 
been  greatly  reduced  during  the  last  few  years. 

When  to  this  loss  of  trade  from  the  United 
States  is  coupled  a  still  greater  diminution  in  the 
English  market,  where  Ceylon  and  Indiai  Teas, 
particularly,  are  most  popular.     For  after  China 

105 


and  Japan,  (and  Australia)  England  is  the  world's 
largest  per-capita  Tea  consumer,  the  natural  as- 
sumption is  that  China  and  Japan  must  feel  the 
change  of  condition  very  severely.  As  a  matter 
of  fact,  the  merchants  of  these  countries  are  the 
only  material  losers. 

The  greater  part'  of  China  Tea  sold  was,  and  is 
produced  by  small  planters  who  have  never  been 
able  to  secure  an  adequate  price  for  their  leaves, 
so  when  the  demand  for  their  tea  fell  off,  many 
of  them  planted  more  beans  and  potatoes,  and 
were  just  as  well  contented. 

Japan  has  really  fared  better  in  the  struggle, 
and  has  succeeded  China  as  the  principal  source 
of  the  Green  Tea  consumed  in  this  country,  and 
supplied  until  recently  almost  half  of  the  total 
quantity  of  all  the  Tea  imported.  Ceylon,  India 
and  Java  Tea  importations  are  now  recognized  as 
prime  factors  in  the  Tea  business  of  America. 

The  titles  most  familiar  to  the  public  are, 
Black,  in  various  qualities  and  prices;  English 
Breakfast,  generally  a  China  Congou.  (As  a  mat- 
ter of  fact,  English  Breakfast  is  a  misnomer.  Con- 
gous and  some  blends  are  called  or  named  English 
Breakfast,  which  is  simply  an  American  trade 
term  unknown  in  England). 

Ceylon,  Indias  and  Javas  are  black;  mixed  are 
blends  of  black  and  green  leaves.  Oolong:  Green- 
Black  leaf  or  Semi-Black  or  Semi-Green.  Green 
Teasi:  ^'Gunpowder,"  "Young  Hyson"  and  other 
sizes,  and  Japan  in  general  usage  applied  to  light 
Japan  Green  Tea. 

The  more  "Fancy"  varieties  include  the  Pekoe, 
Orange  Pekoe  and  scented  types. 

The  titles  popularly  known,  however,  are  en- 
tirely inadequate  to  describe  or  classify  the  many 
varieties  of  Tea  on  the  market.  They  leave  the 
importer,  wholesaler  or  retailer  a  wide  range  from 
which  to  select  varieties  and  blends  to  suit  his 
trade  and  environment. 

Even  the   list   following   China,  Japan,   Ceylon, 

10'6 


India,  Java  and  other  Teas  is  far  from  being  ex- 
haustive. It  includes  only  the  most  important, 
and  most  generally  accepted,  trade  titles  and  dis- 
tinctions. Accuracy  is  rendered  the  more  difficult 
by  the  lack  of  system  in  applying  and  retaining 
titles.  Perhaps  the  widest  range  in  titles  is  found 
in  China  Teas.  They  vary  from  very  choice  types, 
which  are  too  expensive  to  make  importation 
profitable,  to  large  quantities  of  grades  so  poor  and 
so  badly  manipulated  that  their  importation  into 
this  country  is  not  permitted. 

Teas,  as  retailed,  consist  usually  of  several  va- 
rieties or  grades  "blended"  to  produce  the  most 
pleasing  results.  A  small  quantity  of  an  expen- 
sive, highly  fragrant  tea  being  added  to  a  plainer, 
lower  grade  to  improve  its  flavor;  and  over-strong 
high  grade  being  toned  down  by  a  lighter  variety, 
and  so  on  indefinitely. 

Note.     See  China  and  Japan  Tea  Articles. 


CEYLON  TEAS 

The  ordinary  grades  of  Ceylon  Tea  are  largely 
marketed  in  this  country  as  "Ceylon'  Tea"  of  first 
quality,  second  quantity,  etc. 

A  fuller  division  is  into  the  following  principal 
varieties,  each  subject  to  sub-division*  into  sev- 
eral grades. 

The  best  qualities  are  grown  at  high  altitudes, 
the  higher  the  better. 

In  Ceylon  some  of  the  most  exquisitely  flavored 
Tea  comes  from  what  is  known  as  the  Newera 
Eliya  (pronounced  Nuralia)  district,  the  altitude 
of  which  averages  about  6000  feet  above  sea  level. 
These  Teas  are  purchased  entirely  for  their  aris- 
tocratic flavor,  as  they  carry  but  little  strength. 

Dimbula^  district  with  an  altitude  of  about  4000 
feet  produces  among  the  very  best  all-round  Teas. 
They  are  not  so  flavory  as  the  Newera  Eliya  Teas, 
but  they  possess  a  combination  of  flavor,  strength 

107 


and   keeping  qualities,  which  no  other  district  in 
Ceylon  equals. 

"Broken  Orange"  Pekos  or  Flowery  Pekoe,"  the 
very  finest  variety;  the  smallest  and  choicest 
young  leaves  from  the  top  of  the  bush  and  a  large 
proportion  of  golden  tips,  and  produces  a  strong, 
powerful  liquor. 

This  grade  is  not  generally  marketed  here  be- 
cause the  United  States  laws  prohibit  the  entry  of 
any  Tea  containing  more  than  a  certain  percent- 
age of  broken  leaf  that  will  pass  through  a  certain 
designated  sieve.  As  Broken  Orange  Pekoe  is  al- 
ways small  in  leaf  and  contains  a  considerable 
proportion  of  still  smaller  tea,  it  must  be  very 
carefully  screened  if  it  is  to  pass  the  test,  and  the 
loss  and  difficulty  thus  involved,  prevent  all  but 
the  very  largest  importers  from  attempting  it. 
The  intent  of  the  act  when  passed  was  to  guard 
the  public  against  inferior  and  unclean  grades, 
but  it  has  also  resulted  in  keeping  out  some  very 
choice  types. 

Orange  Pekoe:  Similar  to  Broken  Orange  Pe- 
kos, but  the  leaves  are  larger  and  there  is  a  small- 
er percentage  of  tips  of  good  appearance  and  quite 
free  from  small  leaf  or  dust;  the  liquor  is  clean 
and  fragrant  and  flavory,  but  not  so  powerful  nor 
so  aristocratic  a  type  as  the  former. 

Pekoe:  The  leaf  is  slender,  whitish  and  satiny. 
The  liquor  is  dark-reddish,  but  bright  and  fragrant. 

The  word  Pekoe  comes  from  the  Chinese  '*Pak- 
Ho"  meaning  "Silver^Halr."  In  the  old  China  va- 
riety of  Tea,  the  bud-leaf  and  the  end  of  the  first 
leaf,  produced  when  manufactured,  a  tip  of  silver 
color  and  of  a  hairy  appearance,  hence  the  Chi- 
nese called  it  "Pak-Ho." 

This  is  the  standard  grade  of  Ceylon,  also  India 
and  Java  Tea  used  in  America,  and  usually  desig- 
nates a  good  medium  Tea  supplying  good  leaf  and 
liquor. 

Broken    Pekoe   means  just  that,  a   Pekoe:    leaf 

108 


slender,  whitish,  satiny;  broken,  hence  Broken 
Pekoe.     This  cups  very  much  like  Pekoe. 

Pekoe  Souchong  and  Souchong  constituting  the 
bulk  of  the  Ceylon  Teas  of  general  consumption, 
blended  frequently  with  Pekoe.  The  leaf  is  larger 
and  coarser  than  the  preceding  varieties,  but  give 
a  rich  and  pleasant  liquor. 

It  is  the  black  varieties  of  Ceylons  that  have 
made  for  popularity.  However,  some  Green  Ceylon 
is  also  prepared  under  titles,  corresponding  to 
those  of  China  Green. 

Ceylon  Teas  are  further  divided  by  shippers 
into  "low"  and  ''high"  grown,  those  from  low 
ground  and  those  from  higher  altitudes.  The  lat- 
ter are  much  superior. 


INDIA  TEAS 

The  greater  part  of  the  India  product  is  of  the 
Black  Tea,  the  best  qualities  generally  coming 
from  the  Darjeeling  and  Assam  districts.  The 
leaf  is  ordinarily  a  gray-black,  aijd  is,  in  the  best 
grades,  golden  tipped.  The  liquor  is  strong  and 
pleasantly  pungent. 

Darjelling:  The  finest  and  most  delicately  fla- 
vored of  the  India  Teas.  It  is  grown  chiefly  in  the 
Himalaya  Mountains,  India,  at  an  elevation  rang- 
ing from  2500'  to  6'5O0  feet.  The  leaf  varies  from 
the  small,  very  tippy  (Broken  Orange  Pekoe)  to 
the  coarse   (Pekoe  Souchong). 

The  first  "flush"  does  not  develop  the  special 
flavor  of  the  iDarjeeling.  The  second  ''flush",  how- 
ever, brings  out  this  predominant  characteristic, 
full,  rich,  flavor,  and  good  keeping  qualities. 

Darjeeling  "second  flush"  aid  "Autumnal" 
growths  are  generally  recognized  as  the  finest  the 
world  produces,  although  equally  as  good  Teas  may 
be  had  in  Calcutta,  the  supply  is,  however,  rather 
limited. 

There  is  no  class  of  Tea  in  the  world  that  brings 

109 


as  high  a  price  on  an  average,  on  the  London  mar- 
ket particularly. 

Terai  Teas:  An  India  Tea  but  little  known  in 
Apierica.  It  is  very  black  in  color,  flat  and  irregu- 
lar. Its  decidedly  fine  cup  quality  makes  it  valu- 
able for  blending,  it  is  of  pronounced  Darjeeling 
flavor.  Terais  are  grown  in  Northern  India,  in  the 
Terai  district. 

lAssams:  One  of  the  high  grade  India  Teas 
grown  in  the  Province  of  Assam  in  North-east 
British  India.  It  has  a  hard  flinty,  well  made  leaf 
of  a  dark  greyish  black  color.  In  most  cases  car- 
ries plenty  of  Golden  Tip  and  draws  a  full  rich 
color  liquor  with  a  great  deal  of  strength  and 
pungency. 

Assams  in  character  are  noted  for  their  strength, 
fullnes  and  richness  of  liquor. 

Dooars:  A  variety  of  Tea  grown  in  the  Dooar 
district,  British  India.  This  Tea  has  a  soft  mellow 
liquor,  possesses  strength,  and  a  rich  flavory  cup 
quality.  Dooars  have  not  the  style  of  the  Assams 
in  apearance,  but  are  much  sought  after,  and 
used  largely  in  blending. 

Travancores:  Teas  grown  in  the  Province  of 
Travancore,  Southern  India.  This  Tea  very  much 
resembles  Ceylon  Tea  in  appearance  and  charac- 
ter. It  is  a  flavory  Tea  in  the  cup,  with  good 
strength,  but  is  not  very  stylish  in  the  leaf.  As  a 
rule,  however,  the  better  Travancores  grown  at  an 
altitude  of  5000  to  600-0  feet  naturally  possess 
beautiful  cup  quality  and  command  good  prices. 

In  many  instances  it  is,  indeed,  difficult  for  even 
an  expert  judge  of  tea,  to  distinguish  some  of  them 
from  the  high  grown  Ceylon  Teas. 

Owing  to  the  geographical  position,  Teas  from 
this  district  are  marketed  in  Colombo,  though  the 
finer  Travancores  are  shipped  to  London,  and  if 
not  sold  before  reaching  port,  are  sold  at  the  Lon- 
don auctions. 

Shy  let  Teas:  A  variety  of  Tea  grown  in  the 
Shylet  district,  Assam,  India.    In  style  of  leaf  they 

no 


very  much  resemble  the  Assams  and  Dooars.  In 
the  cup,  however,  they  fall  far  short  of  either, 
for  they  lack  strength,  point  and  flavor,  and  usual- 
ly produce  a  dull  heavy  liquor,  Some  of  the  Shy^ 
lets,  however,  show  a  rich  heavy  liquor.  These 
are  frequently  used  in  blends  as  a  filler. 

Cachar:  The  most  common  type,  and  is  pro- 
duced in  the  Cachar  district  of  Assam,  has  rather 
an  attractive  leaf,  but  in  the  cup  is  flat,  and  lacks 
the  distinctive  flavor  of  the  Assams  or  Dooars. 
However,  Cochars  are  extensively  marketed  in 
America. 


JAVA  TEA 

Teas  grown  in  the  Island  of  Java  are  handled 
very  much  the  same  as  India  and  Ceylon  Teas. 
They  are  manufactured  by  machine  process,  and 
are  almost  entirely  of  the  black  variety. 

These  are  graded  into  Broken  Orange  Pekoe, 
Orange  Pekoe,  No.  1  and  No.  2  Pekoe,  Broken  Pe- 
koe, Pekoe  Souchong  and  Souchong,  Fannings  and 
Dust.  As  in  the  case  of  Ceylons,  they  are  known 
by  the  names  of  the  gardens  producing  them. 

Java  Teas  are  further  classified  into  Assam 
Javas,  and  China  Javas.  The  former  being  raised 
from  plants  raised  from  Assam  Tea  seed,  and  the 
latter  grown  from  plants  raised  from  China  Tea 
seed. 

Assam  Javas  are  in  cup  characteristic  very 
much  like  the  milder  growths  of  Indias,  while  the 
China  Javas  show  in  the  liquor  the  characteristics 
of  the  China  Tea,  both  in  developing  the  lighter 
color  and  in  the  flavor. 

India  Ceylon  and  Java  Teas  are  graded  and 
styled  practically  the  same,  as  follows: 


111 


6RADE  STYLES 

Flowery  Orange  Pekoe   . .       Tiippy,   well   made,    wiry. 

Flowery     Broken     Orange 

Pekoe     Tippy,   even,  clean,  wiry. 

Broken  Orange  Pekoe   . . .       Small,   leafy,   clean,   brok- 
en  (sometimes  tippy). 

Broken   Pekoe    Small   miake,   leafy,  clean, 

even. 

Orange    Pekoe     Wiry,  usually  hard,  clean, 

(tippy). 

Pekoe     .^ Boldish,    black,    well  roll- 
ed, clean. 

Flowery   Pekoe    Few   tips,    boldish,    black, 

clean. 

Pekoe  No.   2   Short,   black,   even,   clean. 

Souchong    Coarse,  black,  open  (loose 

roll),  clean. 

Pekoe    Souchong    Black,   bold,   clean. 

Broken   Pekoe  Souchong 
or 

BTX)ken  Souchong     Short,  black,  broken. 

Pekoe  Fannings    Even,  clean,  small,  flakey. 

Fannings    Small,  flakey. 

Dust     Powdery. 

Teas  manufactured  on  all  estates  in  these  coun- 
tries are  graded  in  this  manner.  The  grades  do 
not  indicate  the  cup  quality  of  the  Tea.  The  brok- 
en leaf  makes  a  more  syrupy  or  deeper  liquoring 
cup  of  Tea  than  the  wiry,  hard-rolled,  unbroken 
leaf,  just  as  the  ground  Coffee  makes  a  cup  differ- 
ent to  that  made  from  the  whole  bean.  The  use 
of  the  broken  leaf  is  more  economical  than  the 
wiry  leaf,  because  you  can  get  the  same  strength 
of  liquor  with  less  leaf. 

The  English  Tea  drinking  people  know  this,  in 
consequence,  use  principally  "broken"  as  has  been 
stated. 


CHINA  TEAS 
CHINA  GREEN  TEAS 

The  highest  commercial  types  of  "China  Green 
Teas"  are  Moyunes  and  Teenkais.  Others  of  im- 
portance are  Hoochow,  Fychow  and  Pingsuey. 

Moyunes  and  Pingsueys  were  formerly  princi^ 
pally  distinguished  by  the  color  of  the  leaf.  Ping- 
sueys imported  into  the  United  States  before  the 
new  law  went  into  effect  were  a  bright  green, 
and  Moyunes  a  dull  gray.  The  Moyunes  still  retain 

112 


their  appearance,  while  the  Pingsueys  still  have 
more  the  appearance  of  the  Moyunes.  Pingsueys 
still  lend  themselves  to  a  better  roll  and  cleaner 
apearance  than  the  Moyunes,  especially  in  the 
medium  and  lower  grades. 

Pingsueys,  with  the  one  exception  of  the  very 
early  teas,  which  are  known  as  Hoochows,  are 
one  of  the  most  important  China  Green  Teas. 
However,  they  are  made  up  largely  for  style, 
and  to  catch  the  eye,  and  are  not  as  desirable  in 
the  cup  as  Moyunes. 

The  real  distinction  between  Moyunes  and  Ping- 
sueys is  in  the  cup  quality.  The  Moyunes  have 
more  cup  character,  body  and  flavor  than  the 
Pingsueys.  However,  Hoochows,  (similar  but  a 
finer  variety  than  first  crop  Pingsueys)  and  first 
crop  Pingsueysi  are  quite  delicate  in  the  cup,  and 
far  out-class  the  later  Pingsueys,  which  become 
quite  metallic  in  the  drink. 

All  "China  Green  Teas"  are  graded  as  Fancy, 
Choice,  Finest,  Fine,  Medium  or  Standard,  as  Nos. 
1,  2,  3,  4  and  5.  These  are  also  sub-divided  into: 
Gunpowder,  consisting  of  the  Youngest  and  Small- 
est leaves,  roundish  in  appearance. 

A  rolled  China  made  by  sifting  and  hand  rolling 
until  they  assume  a  shotty  appearance,  and  where 
they  are  particularly  fine,  are  frequently  called 
Pin-Head  Gunpowder.  (Gunpowder  style  is  also 
produced  in  the  same  manner  of  manipulation 
to  a  limited  extent  from  India  and  Ceylon  green 
Teas). 

Imperial,  like  "Gunpowder"  but  larger,  In  three 
grades,  first,  second  and  third. 

Young  Hyson  divided  into  five  grades,  Extra, 
First,  Second,  Third  and  "Cargo."  The  best  grades 
have  long  well-twisted  leaf,  varying  in  size.  Hy- 
son larger  than  Young  Hyson  and  more  loosely 
twisted.    In  three  grades,  First,  Second  and  Third. 

Hyson  is  very  similar  to  Young  Hyson,  only 
made  from  a  rougher,  bolder  leaf. 

The  average  consumer  regards  Gunpowder,  Hy- 

113 


son,  etc.,  as  distinct  qualities  or  varieties  of 
Green  Tea.  Correctly  speaking,  they  are  the  titles 
for  particular  sizes  and  shapes  only.  You  may 
have  Gunpowder  size  of  the-  poorest  or  choicest. 

Teenkais,  Fychows  and  Wenchows  are  similar 
in  leaf  and  cup,  but  inferior  in  quality  to  Moyunes. 

Teenkais:  A  Tea  district  of  China,  producing 
rather  attractive  leafed  Tea.  The  cup  quality  is 
not  generally  as  desirable  as  that  coming  from 
the  Moyune  district. 

Some  Teenkais  compare  very  favorably  with 
IVioyunes,  but  Fuchows  and  Wenchows  are  not  as 
a  whole  as  agreeable  a  drink  as  the  Hoochows,  and 
even  first  crop  Pingsueys. 

IVioyunes,  Teenkais,  Wenchows,  Pingsueys  and 
Hoochows  are  graded:  (1)  common,  (2)  fair, 
(3)  good,  (4)  fine,  (5)  finest,  (6)  choice,  (7)  choic- 
est; according  to  leaf  and  quality. 

Country  Greens:  All  China  Greens  other  than 
Hoochows  and  Pinksuey. 

Quite  generally  speaking,  the  principal  China 
Green  Teas  as  known  to  the  trade  are  spoken  of 
as  IVioyunes  and  Pingsueys.  These  are  divided 
into  Gunpowder,  Imperial,  Young  Hyson  and  Hy- 
son, or  Hyson  Skin.  As  before  stated,  the  differ- 
ent names  denote  the  style  and  make  of  the  leaf. 

Among  other  freaks  in  Tea  is  the  Flowery 
Pekoe,  the  highest  priced  Tea  produced  in  China, 
costing  from  50c  to  $3.00  per  pound,  according  to 
grade.  It  is  a  product  of  Foochow,  and  in  ap- 
pearance is  a  mass  of  Pekoe  Tips,  nearly  white 
in  color,  and  very  light  and  fluffy.  Only  the  term- 
inal opening  buds  are  plucked  for  this  purpose. 
The  cup  quality  is  very  light  and  characterless 
with  almost  no  flavor,  yet  the  Chinese  who  should 
be  (and  are  perhaps)  the  best  judges  of  Tea,  use 
nearly  all  the  better  grades  of  the  Flowery  Pekoe 
produced. 


114 


CHINA   BLACK  TEAS 

These  consist  of  Oolongs  (?)  Congous  (so-called 
English  Breakfast)  and  scented  Teas. 

Scented  Orange  Pekoe  and  Scented  Caper: 
These  may  be  considered  under  one  head,  as  they 
are  merely  a  separation  by  means  of  sifting  out 
the  different  sized  and  shaped  leaves.  The  straight 
or  Young  Hyson  style  leaf  making  the  Orange 
Pekoe,  and  the  round  Gunpowder  style  gives  us 
the  Caper. 

An  ordinarily  small  leaf  Foochow  is  used  and 
fired  by  the  usual  semi-fermented  method.  At 
the  end  of  the  process,  while  the  leaves  are  still 
hot,  they  are  spread  out  and  covered  with  a  layer 
of  Orange  blossoms  or  Jessamine  flowers,  then 
another  layer  of  Tea  is  spread  over  that,  and 
the  mass  is  allowed  to  stand  until  the  flowers  are 
wilted,  when  the  flavpr  and  aroma  is  absorbed  by 
the  T€a.  The  remains  of  the  flowers  are  then 
sifted  out  and  the  Tea  given  another  firing  to  re- 
move the  moisture  absorbed  from  the  flowers.  It 
is  then  packed  in  20-pound  lead-lined  Boxes  or 
Chests,  and  is  ready  for  shipment.  The  scent 
thus  imparted  to  the  Tea  will  be  retained  for 
years. 

These  Teas  are  used  almost  exclusively  for 
blending,  and  are  very  useful  for  giving  an  at- 
tractive distinctive  character  to  a  blend  difficult 
for  a  competitor  to  match.  Only  10  to  15  per 
cent  of  Scented  Tea  is  required  to  get  a  good 
result. 

Oolongs  are  frequently  classified  as  Black  Teas, 
but  they  really  constitute  a  separate  type,  for 
they  are  not  as  thoroughly  fermented  before  firing 
as  the  general  run  of  Black  Teasv  and  therefore 
hold  part  of  the  flavor  and  a  little  of  the  color  of 
Green  Teas. 

There  are  three  recognized  varieties,  Foochow, 
Formosa  and  Canton,  (a  scented  China  Orange 
Pekoe  Tea)  but  practically  all  of  the  supply  im- 
ported  is   of  the   first  two.      Formosa   Oolong   in 

115 


the  choice  grades,  have  evenly-curled  leaf  with 
a  mixture  of  Pekoe  tips;  (2nd,  3rd  and  sometimes 
4th  leaf  of  the  plant).  It  is  very  aromatic  in 
flavor,  which  is  delicate  and  is  easily  the  most  fra- 
grant of  Teas,  the  higher  grades  possessing  a 
full,  sweet  bouquet,  which  is  peculiarly  charac- 
teristic of  Formosa  Oolongs. 

Ning  Yong:  A  China  Tea  district  from  which 
comes  an  Oolong  Tea. 

The  various  varieties  of  characters  to  be  found 
in  Formosa  Teas  are  so  great  that  it  is  quite  as 
important  to  make  a  careful  study  of  them  as  it 
is  to  be  able  to  grade  and  select  for  value. 

There  is  a  vast  difference  between  a  Formosa 
made  from  a  Spring  Tea  and  made  from  a  late 
Summer  Tea,  almost  as  much  as  the  difference 
between  a  Congou  and  a  Ceylon,  or  between  a 
Japan  and^  a  Young  Hyson,  and  there  are  various 
other  reasons  for  vast  difference,  such  as  cNmatic 
conditions,  systems  used  in  preparation,  elevation, 
etc.,  etc.,  that  often  makes  such  a  radical  change 
in  the  cupping  characteristics  that,  unless  ex- 
treme care  is  used,  the  buyer  is  very  apt  to  have 
some  dissatisfied  customers. 

Early  Spring  or  first-crop  Spring  Teas  are  very 
thin  and  light  in  the  cup,  but  in  some  localities 
give  excellent  satisfaction  as  individual  drinkers, 
and  are  used  extensively  with  flavory  Ceylons  in 
blending. 

Users  of  higher  grades  are  particularly  partial 
to  the  early  Summer  Teas,  as  they  carry  good 
body,  handsome  leaf  and  fine  flavor.  Teas  picked 
later  in  the  Summer  (July)  are  showier  and  more 
tippy,  and  have  a  full,  rich  flavor. 

You  will  find  some  of  the  medium  grades  in 
the  late  Summer  picking  that  produce  such  a 
heavy  liquor  that  a  small  proportion  of  Ceylon  or 
Congou  blended  in  will  make  a  most  excellent 
cup. 

Usually  the  late  Teas  draw  a  heavy  liquor, 
however,   occasionally,   strange   as   it   may   seem, 

U6 


you  will  pluck  late  Teas  that  have  decidedly  the 
characteristics  of  an  early  picking,  both  in  ap- 
pearance of  leaf  and  quality  in  the  cup. 

The  Black  small  leaf  is  usually  selected  in 
buying  Choice  Fancy  Tea,  as  it  in  most  cases 
stands  for  a  better  quality  than  the  extra  tippy 
leaf.  What  is  sometimes  termed  the  Jessamine 
flavor  in  these  Teas  quite  likely  originates  from 
a  slight  reminder  of  the  odor  of  Jessamine  Flow- 
ers, frequently  discernable  in  the  cup,  and  it  is  a 
delicious  cup  too. 

The  lower  grades  are  used  principally  for  blend- 
ing, and  are  good.  Select  your  Teas  for  this  pur- 
pose without  dust  or  stems,  and  as  little  broken 
leaf  as  possible. 

Formosa  Teas  are  produced  on  the  Island  of 
Formosa,  and  are  made  up  into  Oolong.  Formosa 
Tea  being  semi-fermented,  has  some  of  the  char- 
acteristics of  Black  Tea;  with  certain  of  the  cup 
qualities  of  the  Green  Tea,  and  therefore  resem- 
bles a  blend  of  the  two.  Formosa  Oolong  is  deli- 
cate in  flavor  and  fragrant. 

Oolong  is  always  a  semi-fermented  Tea  that 
has  been  allowed  to  wither  in  the  process  of 
manufacture,  and  partially  fermented.  In  this  it 
differs  from  the  English  Breakfast,  or  Congou 
(Black)  Teas,  which  are  thoroughly  fermented 
before  being  fired. 

Foochow  Oolong  is  especially  black  in  leaf, 
and  the  liquor  of  the  finer  qualities  is  rich  and 
mellow,  but  without  as  much  body  as  Formosa. 
Ooolong,  unlike  any  other  variety  of  China  Tea, 
is  better  in  the  second  crop,  or  what  is  known  as 
Summer  Tea.  The  Autumn  Tea  has  more  merit 
than  the  average  thirds  of  other  Teas.  Some  of 
the  first  crops,  however,  are  sweet  in  liquor  and 
have  a  pleasant  aroma.  In  all,  there  are  four  or 
five  crops  of  Oolongs. 

Oolongs  are  commercially  graded  as  Fancy, 
Choicest,  Choice,  Finest,  Fine,  Superior,  Good, 
Fair  and  Common.    The  bulk  of  China  Black  Teas 

117 


imported    into    the    United    States    is    known    as 
Congou,   (often  called   English   Breakfast). 

There  are  numerous  grades,  the  highest  of  ex- 
cellent cup  quality,  and  their  blending  results  in 
a  great  many  varieties  of  all  styles  and  values, 
among  them  numerous  qualities  of  English  Break- 
fast, Black  Te^  and  Mixed  Tea. 

The  principal  commercial  classifications  are  in- 
to Choice  New^Crop,  Choicest,  Choice,  Finest, 
Fine,  Superior,  Good,  Fair  and  Common.  By  Nos. 
1,  2,  3,  4,  etc.,  and  as  Pekoe,  Souchong,  etc. 

The  leaf  of  the  better  qualities  is  greyish-black 
and  well  twisted,  and  the  liquor  is  rich  in  color 
and  pungently  pleasant  in  flavor.  Congous  are 
usually  classed  as  North  and  South  China  Teas, 
according  to  the  districts  from  which  they  were 
shipped. 

The  North  China  Congous  have,  as  a  whole, 
more  body  than  South  Chinas.  However,  the  bet- 
ter grades  of  South  China  Pan  Yongs  possess  a 
good  flavor  and  decided  character. 

Souchong:  A  corruption  of  the  Chinese  "Sian- 
chung,"  meaning  small  plant.  The  old  variety  of 
Lapsang  Souchong  was  produced  from  a  small 
plant,  and  the  growers  invariably  left  this  leaf 
to  develop  considerably  before  plucking.  Conse- 
quently the  Lapsang  Souchong  was  always  of  a 
larger  leaf  than  the  other  varieties  of  China  Tea. 

Indian  planters  appropriated  this  name  for  their 
largest  leaf  Teas;  the  first  or  smallest  leaf  was 
called  Orange  Pekoe,  the  second  leaf  was  called 
Pekoe,  the  third  was  termed  Pekoe  Souchong,  and 
the  fourth  or  largest  leaf  was  called  Souchong 
These  terms  are  today  applied  to  certain  grades  of 
India,  Ceylon  and  Java  Teas. 

Souchongs:  Term  applied  to  certain  large  leaf 
Black  Teas  from  South  China.  The  liquor  of  these 
Teas  is  rich  and  syrupy.  'Some  varieties  have  a 
smoky  flavor,  liked  by  many  tea  drinkers.  They 
are  seldom  used  in  America,  though  very  useful 

118 


in   fine    China    blends,    giving   them   a   distinctive 
character. 

North  China  Congous  are  usually  of  a  dull  grey- 
color,  and  of  small  curley  leaf.  The  cheaper  the 
grade  the  coarser  the  leaf  as  a  rule. 

iVIoning:  A  term  which  is  applied  to  all  North 
China  Teas.  There  are  many  varieties,  among 
them  being  NIngchow,  Oonfa,  Kintuck,  Keemun, 
Ichang,   etc. 

Keemun:  A  fine  grade  North  China  black  leaf 
Congou,  of  heavier  body  and  not  so  stylish  in  ap- 
pearance as  the   Ningchows. 

The  Ningchows  and  Keemun  are  the  leading 
North    China    Blacks. 

KIntuck:  A  variety  of  North  China  black  leaf 
Congou.  A  flavory,  full  bodied,  fine  cupping  Tea, 
very  similar  to  Keemun.  ^ 

Kaisow:  A  variety  of  South  China  Congou  Tea; 
generally  low,  medium  grade  and  low  priced. 

South  China  Congous  consist  principally  of  Pan 
Yongs,  Paklins  and  Packlums.  The  most  desir- 
able of  these  are  the  Pan  Yongs.  The  dry  leaf 
is*  black  and  coarser  than  the  average  Ningchow, 
but  the  leaf  is  generally  good  black,  and  the  li- 
quor delicate  and  flavory,  of  good  body  and  char- 
acter. 

The  Packlums  are  the  most  stylish  in  appear- 
ance of  all  China  Black  Teas,  the  leaf  being  small, 
evenly  made  and  black.  The  better  grades  show 
considerable  white  tips;  they  are  handsome,  but 
lack  body  and  character. 

Packlin:  A  variety  of  South  China  black  leaf 
Congou  Tea.  It  has  a  well  made,  small  black 
leaf.  The  liquor  is  dark  red,  but  lacks  character 
and  flavor. 

Prominent  among  the  fancy  Teas  are:  Flowery 
Pekoe:  small,  evenly  folded,  olive  colored,  gener- 
ally scented,  and  carry  a  profusion  of  white  vel- 
vety tps.  Orange  Pekoe:  small,  black  leaf,  with 
yellowish  ends,  generally  scented.  CResemble 
Packlums    in    appearance).      Pekoe:    small,    with 

119 


whitish  tips,  generally  scented.  Powchong:  (also 
used  as  a  general  term  for  all  China  paper  pack- 
age Tea)  rather  rough,  dull  black  leaf;  a  variety 
of  Teas,  highly  scented  with  the  Jessamine  flower, 
manufactured  mainly  for  consumption  in  China 
and  the  Philippines. 

Capers  and  Koolaws  are  also  included  in  the 
scented  Teas.  Capers  are  shaped  like  Gunpowder 
or  Japan  Nibs,  highly  scented  (Black)  with  a  flav- 
or similar  to  the  Scented  Orange  Pekoe. 

Scented  Orange  Pekoe:  This  is  a  variety  of 
China  Souchong,  and  is  a  highly  scented  Tea. 
Scented  Teas  are  sometimes  produced  by  sprays 
of  Orange  or  other  blossoms  by  being  placed  over 
the  trays  during  the  withering  process. 

The  fragrance  of  scented  Teas  is  not  natural, 
but  is  imparted  from  flowers,  seeds  or  roots,  such 
as  Jessamine,  Gardina,  etc.  In  some  districts  the 
scenting  material  is  added  during  the  firing  pro- 
cess, and  afterwards  separated  by  sifting.  The 
method  used  generally  is  this:  The  scenting  ma- 
terial is  pread  over  the  top  of  the  Tea  after  the 
Tea  is  prepared  and  ready  for  packing,  (one 
pound  of  the  leaves  or  blossoms  heing  the  usual 
proportion  to  each  100'  pounds  of  Tea)  and  allow- 
ed to  remain  on  the  chest  at  least  a  day,  until 
the  Tea  becomes  thoroughly  impregnated. 

Scented  Teas,  as  a  whole,  possess  very  little 
merit  in  the  cup,  being  very  light,  without  body 
or  character.  They  are  used  principally  for  blend- 
ing Black  Teas.  It  is  far  better  not  to  use  them 
at  all,  as  the  natural  flavor  of  Teas  is  best  for 
the  consumer.  If  used,  they  should  be  used  spar- 
ingly, say  one  pound  to  twenty  pounds. 

Padraes:  A  South  China  Red  Leaf  Congou, 
known  by  its  small  red  leaf. 

Saryunes:  A  large  red  leaf  Tea  grown  in  the 
Saryune  district  of  China.  It  produces  a  thick, 
heavy  liquor,  and  is  not  unpleasant  in  the  cup. 


120 


JAPAN  TEAS 

Tea  is  grown  all  over  Japan.  The  system  of 
cultivation  and  method  of  preparation  is  very- 
similar  to  that  of  the  Chinese. 

The  first  crop  Teasi  are  best.  The  later  the 
crop,  the  less  merit  to  the  cup;  however,  some 
of  the  later  Teas  have  good  characters.  First 
picking  begins  about  the  end  of  April  or  the  be- 
ginning of  May;  the  second  crop  a  month  later, 
and  the  third  crop  in  July-August.  The  better 
grades,  notably  those  from  the  Yenshy  district, 
possess  a  delicate  rich  flavor,  peculiar  to  them- 
selves; the  lower  grades  are  metallic. 

Japani  Teas  are  made  up  to  preserve  their  nat- 
ural quality,  without  fermentation  or  withering, 
and  are  therefore  "Green  Teas."  They  are,  how- 
ever, known  as  sun-dried,  pan-fired,  basket-fired 
or  porcelain-fired. 

The  best  varieties  of  Japan  Teas  show  a  med- 
ium-sized or  small  leaf,  and  a  bright,  clear,  fra- 
grant liquor,  the  latter  in  the  Green  Teas  gener- 
ally of  a  lighter  color  than  the  China  Green. 

Formerly  Japan  Teas  were  divided  into  Pan- 
fired,  Sun-dried  and  Basket-fired.  Now  they  are 
simply  divided  into  Pan-fired  and  Basket-fired. 
(Uncolored.) 

Basket-fired:  This  is  a  term  applied  to  Japan 
Tea,  which  has  been  cured  in  iBaskets,  by  the  fir- 
ing process.  The  process  consists  of  putting  from 
seven  to  ten  pounds  of  Tea  into  an  hour-glass, 
shaped  basket,  having  a  sieve  in  the  middle,  by 
means  of  which  the  Tea  is  held  in  the  upper 
part  of  the  basket. 

The  basket  is  placed  over  a  charcoal  fire,  and 
during  the  course  of  firing,  which  lasts  about  an 
hour,  the  basket  is  removed  two  or  three  times 
and  the  Tea  turned  over,  thus  insuring  even  fir'ng. 

Pan-fired:  The  term  applies  to  Japan  Tea. 
As  soon  after  the  leaf  is  plucked  it  is  steamed 
and    certain    juices    extracted,   after   which    it    is 

121 


rolled  on  a  paper  on  a  sheet-iron  pan,  over  a 
charcoal  fire  to  make  it  curl  and  to  extract  suf- 
ficient moisture  to  keep  it  until  it  can  be  shipped 
to  the  factory. 

This  process  takes  from  forty  minutes  to  one 
hour,  the  work  being  done  near  the  plantation. 
Upon  arrival  at  the  factory  the  Tea  is  again  plac- 
ed in  iron  pans  over  charcoal  fires  and  stirred 
with  iron  arms  operated  by  machinery  until  prop- 
erly cured.  This  re-firing  takes  from  a  half  to 
one  hour,  according  to  the  "toast"  required. 

tPorcela in-fired:  Japan  Tea,  which  has  been 
fired  in  a  similar  manner  to  "Pan-fired,"'  except 
that  it  is  not  rolled  and  manipulated  to  such  an 
extent.  It  is  consequently  rougher  in  appearance 
than  *'Pan-fired,"  but  there  is  less  in  weight  by 
breakage,  and  it  is  consequently  cheaper. 

The  name  has  no  particular  significance.  It 
was  aparently  arbitrarily  selected  to  make  a  dis- 
tinction between  this  process  and  that  of  "Pan- 
firing." 

Pan-fireds  and  Basket-fireds  are  produced  from 
the  same  leaf,  the  only  difference  being  in  the 
method  of  handling  and  firing.  However,  some 
Teas  are  better  adapted  for  Basket-fired  than  for 
Pan-fired  Teas.  The  leaf  is  fired  in  pans  over 
charcoal  furnaces  and  prepared  for  export  by 
machinery.  The  color  of  Pan-fired  Tea  is  an  olive- 
green.      (Formerly  light-green). 

Basket-fired,  as  the  name  would  indicate,  is  a 
Tea  fired  in  baskets.  Japan  Tea  in  the  raw  state 
looks  like  Basket-fired,  but  the  Spiderieg  varieties 
are  rolled  and  styled  up  to  please  the  eye. 

Spider  Japan  or  Spiderieg:  A  long,  thin, 
handsome,  straight  leaf,  tightly  and  stylishly 
twisted   Basket-fired  Japan   Tea. 

^'aturaI  Leaf  Teas:  These  Teas  are  all  from 
the  KawanI,  Hachioji  and  IVIomikirl  districts,  and 
in  appearance  of  leaf  are  between  the  Basket-fired 
and  Pan-fired.     They  are  fired  on  paper  trays  in 

122 


interior,   and   sometimes   re-fired  in  pans   or   bas- 
kets. 

Spring  Teas:  Term  applied  to  Japan  and  For- 
mosa Teas,  plucked  in  the  April  and  IVIay  season. 

Summer  Teas:  Japan  and  Formosa  Teas  gath- 
ered in  the  season  from  June  to  September. 

Autumn  Teas:  Japan  and  Formosa  Teas  pluck- 
ed in  October  or  later. 

Classification:  Japan  Teas  are  classed  as  Yok- 
ohama Teas  and  Kobe  Teas,  according  to  the  dis- 
tricts from  which  they  come. 

Kdbe  Teas:  The  Teas  which  are  shipped  from 
the  districts  which  constitute  Kobe  Teas  are,  as 
a  whole,  inferior  to  the  Yokohama  Teas,  but  some 
of  the  higher  grades  are  very  sweet  in  the  cup. 

Yokohama  Teas:  Teas  shipped  from  Yokohama 
are  grown  chiefly  in  two  great  districts,  Suruga 
and  Yenshu.  These  two  districts  might  again  be 
divided  into  several  smaller  ones,  the  Teas  from 
which  vary  slightly  in  general  character. 

Yenshu:  In  this  district  are  produced  the  best 
drinking  Teas  of  Japan,  notably  in  the  Kawani 
Hachioji  and  Momikiri  sections.  As  a  rule,  the 
Yenshus  have  not  the  style  of  the  Suruga  Teasi 
The  characteristics  of  this  Tea  is  a  straight,  long, 
flat  leaf,  the  liquor  being  light  in  color,  but  rich 
in  flavor. 

Suruga  Teas:  These  are  the  stylish  Teas  of 
Japan.  From  this  district  comes  the  greater  pro- 
portion of  what  are  known  as  Spiderleg  Teas. 
They  are  also  made  up  into  Pan-fired. 

Kawani:  A  small  Tea  district  in  Japan  pro- 
ducing a  fine  quality  small  leaf  Tea.  The  liquor 
is  rich  and  rather  light  in  color. 

Momikiri:  A  comparatively  new  make  of  Japan 
Tea,  generally  made  of  the  high  grades  of  Tea 
from  the  Yenshu  and  Kawani  districts.  It  has 
rather  a  small  clean  leaf,  and  cups  well. 

Surugas  are  noted  for  the  handsome  and  stylish 
appearance  of  the  prepared  leaf.     They  lack  the 

123 


fine  cupping  quality  of  the  Yenshu,  the  liquor  be- 
ing very  often  grassy  in  flavor. 

After  the  firing  process,  the  Tea  is  sifted  and 
graded  to  match  the  various  standards  to  fill 
import  orders;  on  importation  they  are  graded  as: 
Pan-fired:  medium  size,  generally  green,  evenly 
curled.     Basket-fired:   long,  dark,  well  twisted. 

iDust  or  Farmings. 

^^Nibs"  is  irregularly  twisted,  larger  leaf,  sifted 
from  the  higher  grades. 

For  commercial  purposes,  Japan  Teas  are  grad 
ed  as  Extra-Choice,  Choicest  Choice,  Fine,  Good, 
Medium  and  Common. 

They  are  marketed  both  as  Japan  Teas  No.  1, 
No.  2,  No.  3,  etc.,  and  by  conventional  titles  for 
size  and  style. 


BRICK  TEA 

This  consists  of  Tea  leaves  and  Tea  leaf  dust. 
The  term  applies  particularly  to  China  Tea,  Japan 
Tea,  however,  is  also  made  up  into  bricks.  Brick 
Tea  is  manufactured  by  using  usually  three 
grades  of  Tea  for  each  brick.  The  Tea  dust  is 
moistened,  usually  by  steam  after  having  been 
placed  ii^  a  mold.  Each  mold  has  a  layer  of  the 
fine  or  medium  Tea  at  the  top  and  bottom,  with 
a  coarser  grade  in  between.  It  is  subjected  to  a 
pressure  applied  by  a  power  of  from  15  to  25  tons 
per  square  inch. 

This  pressure  is  applied  to  the  whole  brick, 
it  is  only  applied  for  a  very  short  time  when  the 
mould  is  locked  with  wedges  and  kept  so  for 
two  or  three  hours. 

The  bricks  usually  weigh  about  214  pounds 
each  and  measure  about  1x6x7  inihes  in  size. 
Three  or  four  weeks  are  usually  required  for  the 
bricks  to  dry. 

These  are  manufactured  extensively  for  local 
consumption  in  various  sections,  and  for  export 
to  Tibet,  Siberia  and  elsewhere. 

124 


The  Tea  Caddy  is  a  small  chest,  box  or  canister 
or  a  chest  containing  several  canisters,  for  pack- 
ing or  holding  Tea.  Caddy  was  adapted  from  the 
Chinese  catty,  a  small  measure  of  Tea,  as  a  char- 
acteristic title  for  Oriental  Tea  packages  them- 
selves. 

Catty  was  derived  from  the  Malay  kati,  a  frac- 
tion more  than  a  pound. 

Large  quantities  of  imitation  Oriental  Caddies 
are  now  made  in  this  country,  and  used  by  Gro- 
cers to  re-pack  Tea.  They  are  shipped  in  "nests," 
the  smaller  sizes  fitting  into  the  larger,  thus  giv- 
ing a  wide  variety  of  sizes  and  occupying  very 
little  space. 

When  used  as  a  measure,  thei  word  "caddy" 
now  generally  signifies  any  package  containing 
less  than  a  half  chest.  A  Chinese  chest  is  equiva- 
lent to  about  82  pounds  or  three-fifths  of  a  Pecul 
(about  139  pounds). 

The  India  and  Ceylon  chests  contain  90  to  140 
pounds. 

Chests:  The  original  Tea  package,  usually 
made  of  wood  and  lined  with  lead.  Generally 
speaking,  while  India  and  Ceylon  Teas  are  packed 
in  "chests"  and  sometimes  in  "half  chests,"  other 
Teas  come  mostly  in  "half  chests." 

''Chests"  of  India  Tea  weigh  from  110  to  14iO 
pounds;  "Chests"  of  Ceylon  Teas  weigh  from  90 
to  110  pounds. 

Tea  Tablets:  Consist  of  Tea  Dust  or  finely 
ground  Tea  pressed  into  cubes  or  squares  for  use 
in  the  open  by  hunters,  campers,  etc. 

Tile  Tea:  Is  a  kind  of  flat  Brick  Tea  made  In 
China,  exported  via  Keachti  and  distributed 
throughout  Siberia  and  Tartars.  It  is  cooked  with 
milk,  butter,  salt  and  herbs,  and  eaten  as  a  vege- 
table. 

Thick  Teas:  Indias,  Ceylon,  Javas,  Congous 
possessed  of  a  full,  strong,  heavy  Hquoring  "draw." 
Hence  the  application  "Thick  Tea." 

125 


AMERICAN  TEA 

The  Tea  industry  in  the  United  States  has 
never  reached  noticeable  proportions  or  received 
much  comment,  although  for  perhaps  a  hundred 
years  various  atempts  have  been  made  to  estab- 
lish tea-growing  gardens  in  this  country,  these 
have  been  successful  in  a  very  limited  way. 

Pinehurst,  (Gardens)  Summerville,  South  Caro 
lina,  has  produced  some  Teas  of  excellent  quality, 
however,  they  have  not  met  with  any  degree  of 
commercial  success.  The  United  States  Depart- 
ment of  Agriculture  has  made  extensive  experi- 
ments with  India,  Ceylon  and  China  Tea  seed,  and 
have  the  satisfaction  of  realizing  a  small  but 
growing  output  of  Black  and  Green  Teas  each 
year,  but  they  have  not  yet  entered  into  compe- 
tition with  the  Asiatic  crop. 

Pinehurst  Teas:  Grown  on  a  garden  by  that 
name  at  Somervllle^  South  Carolina. 

TEA    BLENDING 

You  have  undoubtedly  used  the  term  "blend" 
very  frequently  in  referring  to  Tea.  In  fact,  it 
may  very  well  be  that  you  have  "blended"  Teas 
among  your  own  brands.  This  use  of  a  blend  is 
very  common,  and  two  or  more  kinds  of  Tea 
blended  in  a  skillful  manner  result  satisfactorily 
to  the  consumer  and  profitably  to  the  dealer.  The 
object  is  not,  as  the  public  may  sometimes  imag- 
ine, to  lower  the  quality,  or  reduce  the  cost  to  the 
dealer,  but  simply  to  produce  a  better  Tea,  and 
to  obtain  a  finer  and  more  desirable  flavor  than 
that  yielded  by  any  single  variety.  Thus  a  Tea 
may  be  suitable  in  flavor,  but  lacking  in  body, 
or  light  in  liquor.  By  adding  to  it  one  or  two 
other  Teas  possessing  these  qualities,  the  defect 
is  remedied  and  a  full-flavored,  heavy-bodied  Tea 
is  produced,  to  the  greater  satisfaction  of  the 
consumer. 

a26 


The  art  of  "blending"  Tea  has  been  highly  de- 
veloped in  England,  but  the  average  Tea  man  in 
the  United  States  has  only  a  superficial  knowledge 
of  Tea  blending.  This  is  a  most  interesting  and 
important  department  of  the  Tea  business,  which 
may  well  be  studied  and  developed. 

Unquestionably  the  highest  branch  of  the  Tea 
business  is  in  the  blending  of  Teas.  The  mixing 
of  different  types,  styles  and  strength  to  produce 
or  acquire  special  results. 

The  successful  blending  of  Teas  can  only  be 
accomplished  through  patience  and  close  practical 
application,  and  is  usually  brought  about  by  the 
use  of  proper  proportions  of  light  and  heavy,  aro- 
matic and  flat,  and  stylish  and  low  grade  Teas, 
black  for  blacks  and  green  for  greens  as  a  rule. 
However,  blends  are  sometimes  built  from  a  com- 
bination of  blacks  and  greens,  All  blends  should, 
first:  Be  constructed  to  produce  a  desirable  cup; 
second:  Price  is  a  prime  factor.  A  good  exam- 
ple for  instance  is:  A  high  type  Darjeeling,  a 
full  bodied  Assam,  and  a  good  grade  Dooar  and  a 
Newera  Eliya  Ceylon  proportioned  possibly  as  fol- 
lows: 20%  Darjeeling,  30%  Assam  20%  Dooar, 
30%  Ceylon  would  construct  a  very  desirable 
blend. 

To  produce  a  better  cup  (which  would,  of  course, 
cost  more  money),  increase  the  amount  of  Dar- 
jeeling and  Ceylon,  reducing  the  amount  of  As- 
sams  correspondingly. 

By  proper  manipulation,  you  should  be  enabled 
to  build  a  good  blend  with  a  wide  range  of  price, 
and  still  maintain  excellent  cup  quality.  Very 
much  the  same  result  can  be  obtained  by  the  use 
of  a  good  Ceylon  type  of  Java  Tea,  leaving  out  the 
Ceylon.  This  would,  ordinarily,  reduce  the  cost 
considerably  without  reducing  the  cup  quality  to 
any  noticeable  extent. 

All  types  of  Teas,  fermented,  unfermented,  and 
even  semi-fermented,  have  to  be  handled  in  this 
manner  in  blending  to  obtain  the  result  sought. 

127 


To  produce  a  particularly  pleasing  blend  is  not 
an  easy  matter,  and  to  repeat  it  is  still  more  diffi- 
cult. In  other  words,  a  reproduction  of  a  blend 
and  maintaining  same  year  after  year  from  the 
crops  of  different  seasons,  requires  experience, 
extreme  patience  and  honesty  of  purpose,  concen- 
tration, hard  work,  and  last,  but  not  least,  a  good 
nose  and  a  sensitive,  delicate  sense  of  taste.  It  is 
most  undesirable  to  establish  a  demand  for  a 
particular  flavor  in  your  blend  if  you  are  not 
capable  of  keeping  it  up. 

The  Tea  business  is  really  an  art,  and  is  very 
fascinating,  and  profitable  if  successfully  con- 
ducted. 

Tea,  whether  in  package  or  bulk,  should  never 
be  kept  in  the  sunlight,  nor  near  any  article  or 
articles  of  distinctive  odors,  and  its  place  of  stor- 
age should  always  be  perfectly  dry  and  moderately 
cooL 

Tea  naturally  keeps  fresh  best  in  tight-fitting 
canisters,  and  in  sealed  tin  or  lead  packages,  but 
it  deteriorates  with  age,  no  matter  how  it  is 
packed. 


HELPFUL    HINTS   ON   TASTING,   TESTING, 
BLENDING  AND  SELLING 

An  ideal  location  to  be  selected  for  a  testing 
room  for  either  Teas  or  Coffees  is  one  with  an 
unobstructed  northern  light.  This  affords  the  best 
opportunity  for  close  scrutiny — a  light  that  shows 
you  the  best  and  the  worst. 

In  all  Black  and  Senni-Black  (semi-fermented) 
Teas  there  is  to  be  found  a  percentage  of  flaky 
leaf,  more  or  less  yellow,  which  is  very  noticeable 
in  a  strong  light,  and  might  be  readily  overlooked 
under  less  favorable  conditions.  This  is  an  in- 
ferior leaf,  and  not  only  affects  the  style,  but  is 
good  evidence  (except  in  Japan  Teas)  that  an  in- 

128 


ferior  quality  has  been  added.  This  would  have 
a  tendency,  of  course,  to  lessen  the  value  of  the 
Tea.  In  consequence,  the  utmost  care  should  be 
used  to  ascertain  to  just  what  extent  these  leaves 
have  been  introduced. 

In  testing  blends  or  blended  Teas,  it  is  always 
well  to  taste  from  se\'eral  drawings,  in  order  to 
determine  the  thoroughness  of  the  mixing.  Should 
there  be  a  pronounced  difference  in  the  cup  of  the 
different  ''draws"  you  will  readily  understand 
that,  while  your  blend  may  be  all  right,  your  vari- 
ous types  are  not  properly,  or  evenly,  mixed. 

A  small,  hard,  well-rolled,  uniform  leaf  is  usually 
accepted  for  style,  but  without  a  good  light,  one  is 
quite  apt  to  misjudge  the  size,  and  texture,  par- 
ticularly if  the  Tea  is  highly  colored,  in  which 
case  color  and  polish  might  prove  deceptive  and 
cause  the  important  qualities,  such  as  make,  hard- 
ness and  uniformity  to  be  overlooked. 

Frequently  the  best  "drawings"  from  Black  Teas 
are  from  those  that  show  no  tips  whatever,  al- 
though many  buyers  are  prone  to  take  them  into 
serious  consideration.  There  is  no  question  but 
what  a  small,  black,  hard,  well-twisted,  uniform- 
leafed  Formosa  is  superior  to  a  coarse,  uneven 
leaf  with  any  amount  of  tips.  The  same  may  be 
said  of  the  choicest  Darjeeling,  for  those  sold  at 
the  fanciest  prices  are  of  the  classy  black  leaf. 

In  testing  for  cup  quality,  a  counter  or  table,  or 
even  a  bench  of  convenient  height  may  be  used. 
The  dry  tea  leaves  are  weighed  out  and  placed  in 
cups  or  small  china  pots,  each  holding  one  cup  of 
Tea.  Fresh  boiling  water  is  then  poured  on.  Some 
then  cover  the  cups  with  a  saucer  or  the  pots  with 
a  lid,  and  let  stand  for  five  minutes;  others  do 
not  cover  but  begin  at  once  to  use  the  nose,  and 
as;  soon  as  the  liquor  is  "up",  tasting  begins. 

The  infused  leaf  is  usually  removed,  however. 
The  inspection  and  comparison  of  the  infused  and 
dry  leaves  may  be  conducted  very  intelligently  by 
lifting  the  infused  leaf  in  the  spoon. 

129 


An  expert  can,  of  course,  get  more  information 
from  a  minute  examination  of  the  infused  leaf 
tlian  thei  beginner.  E.  O.,  he  can  take  a  Congou 
(said  to  be  one  of  the  most  difficult  Teas  to  grade 
correctly)  and  not  only  get  a  good  idea  of  the 
grade,  but  can  tell  positively  whether  it  is  new 
or  old-crop  Tea,  and  even  if  it  is  first  or  second- 
crop,  and  frequently  assure  himself  just  what 
district  the  Tea  is  from.  The  choice  and  pref- 
erence in  Congous  is  usually  given  the  Teas 
of  bright,  copper-colored,  infused  leaf  over  the 
dull  and  darker  shades.  The  same  is  true  in  all 
black  or  semi-fermented  Teas,  and  to  some  extent 
all  kinds  of  Teas. 

In  testing  Tea  (or  Coffee)  your  sight  is  used 
largely  to  keep  you  from  wasting  time;  your  sense 
of  taste  and  smell  are  of  the  utmost  importance. 

Your  sight  will  show  you  the  difference  in  ap- 
pearance of  liquor,  say  between  the  China  and 
Indian  Tea,  or  China  and  Java  Teas. 

Your  sight  will  also  show  you  the  difference 
between  the  infused  and  the  dry  leaf,  and  will 
teach  you  what  to  look  for  in  testing.  The  in- 
fused leaf  of  a  good  Tea  should  be  a  rich  yellow 
or  "old  gold",  while  the  poorer  Tea  leaf  infused 
is  usually  dark  and  dull. 

Your  taste  will  show  you  the  decided  difference 
between,  say,  the  flavor  of  an  India  Tea  and  that 
of  a  China  Tea.  Taste  the  Tea  (hot)  by  sipping 
from  a  dessert  spoon,  letting  it  rest  on  the  tongue 
for  an  instant,  then  spitting  it  out.  (Do  not  swal- 
low Tea  or  Coffee  in  your  regular  testing  work.) 

Your  taste  (with  some  practice)  will  teach  you 
the  difference  in  liquors  from  Indian,  Ceylon, 
Javas,  etc. 

Always  cleanse  the  mouth  well  before  tasting. 
Rinsei  with  water  and  soda,  or  take  a  bite  or  two 
of  apple,  or  a  slice  of  lemon. 

Your  sense  of  smell  used  in  conjunction  with 
your  sense  of  taste  helps  you  to  distinguish  the 
Aroma,  and  more  fully  appreciate  the  flavor,  and 

ISO 


combined   add  much  to  the  important  factors   of 
memory  and  recognition. 

You  can  not  know  Teas  (nor  Coffees)  without 
studying,  testing  them  along  the  lines  of  tasting, 
but  by  constant  sight,  taste,  and  smell  you  can 
become  an  expert. 


TEA  ANALYSIS,  AND  ITS  USE  AS  A  BEVERAGE 

The  most  important  components  of  the  Tea-leaf 
are  theine  (the  chief  stimulating  principle),  2^% 
to  31/4 9r;  second,  the  oil  and  resinous  ingredients, 
which  furnish  the  flavor  and  aroma  of  the  liquid; 
third,  the  gummy  substances  and  the  tannin,  which 
give  it  "body"  and  strength.  There  is  in  addition 
a  small  quantity  of  essential  oil,  which  slightly 
increases  its  stimulating  properties. 

Tea  also  carries,  according  to  chemical  analysis. 
40%  to  60%  protein,  cellulose,  fibre,  etc.,  but 
nearly  all  of  this  is  found  in  the  Tea  leaves  left 
after  pouring  off  the  liquid.  The  greater  part  of 
the  tannin  (from  12%  to  18%)  also  becomes  a 
part  of  the  residue,  assuming,  of  course,  that  the 
Tea  is  made  fresh,  as  it  should  be. 

To  obtain  the  best  results,  fresh  boiling  water 
must  be  used,;  the  pot  must  be  kept  hot  (but  not 
boiling),  for  from  three  to  five  minutes  after  pour- 
ing the  water  on  the  leaves;  the  Tea  should  not 
stand  longer  than  five  minutes  before  drinking. 

If)  the  water  used  lis  not  fresh,  that  is,  if  it  has 
been  standing  long,  or  has  ben  previously  boiled, 
the  Tea  will  be  insiped  and  flat  in  flavor. 

If  the  water  is  not  boiling  when  poured  on  the 
leaves,  it  will  produce  a  rough,  raw-tasting  liquor. 
An  earthenware  pot  is  better  than  a  metal  one. 
Putting  the  dry  Tea  leaves  into  a  pot  well  warmed 
produces  a  better  result  than  putting  them  in  a 
cold  pot. 

The  fresh-brewed  liquor,  after  four  or  five  min- 
utes'  infusion,  contains   almost  the   total  amount 

131 


of  Theine  (identical  with  Caffeine  in  Coffee),,  and 
only  enough  tannin  and  associating  components  to 
give  it  palatable  strength. 

If  the  liquid  is  allowed  to  stand  on  the  leaves 
longer  than  five  minutes,  the  flavor  will  be  in- 
jured by  the  extra  tannin  produced;  seven  or  eight 
minutes,  and  the  tannin  not  only  detracts  from  the 
flavor,  but  the  liquor  becomes  pungent,  acts  as 
an  astringent,  and  in  consequence  becomes  very 
detrimental  to  digestion.  The  liquid  can  be  saved, 
however,  if  poured  off  the  leaves  into  a  fresh 
china  or  earthenware  vessel. 

India,  Ceylon  and  Java  Teas  are,  as  a  rule,  con- 
siderably stronger  than  China  and  Japan.  Indi- 
vidual tastes  differ  also,  hence  the  quantity  of 
leaves  to  be  used  must  be  judged  entirely  by  the 
requirements. 

The  water  in  some  localities  will  make  much 
'better  Tea  (also  Coffee)  than  water  in  other 
places.  It  is  claimed  by  some  authorities  that 
soft  water  should  be  used  when  brewing  the 
more  delicate  types,  and  that  where  the  water 
contains  lime  or  other  mineral  matter  to  excess, 
stronger,  coarser  and  heavier  Tea  leaves  should  be 
used. 

Again  some  experts  assert  that  the  "best  Tea" 
is  the  best  everywhere.  However,  the  experience 
of  the  writer  rather  tends  to  varify  the  former 
statement. 

In  making  Iced  Tea,  use  at  least  one-fourth  more 
leaves  than  for  Tea  to  be  served  hot;  use  the  same 
care,  and  do  not  allow  the  liquor  on  the  leaves 
more  than  six  or  seven  minutes;  then  pour  off  into 
another  vessel  and  allow  to  cool  very  slowly.  It 
should  be  made  three  hours  before  it  is  to  be 
served.  This  gives  ample  time  to  cool  gradually. 
Tea  suddenly  chillied,  either  by  ice  or  refrigera- 
tion, spoils  the  flavor  beyond  a  doubt. 

When  ready  to  serve,  add  ice,  sugar,  lemon,  etc., 
according  to  taste. 


132 


U.  S.  SHOULD  DOUBLE  ITS  TEA 
CONSUMPTION 

Every  man  who  depends  upon  the  Tea  business 
for  his  livelihood  must  feel  dissatisfied  with  him- 
self whenever  he  considersi  the  deplorable  fact 
that  we,  in  this  prosperous  country,  consume  only 
one  pound  of  Tea  per  capita  yearly.  With  Austra- 
lia using  9  pounds  per  capita,  Great  Britain  6 
pounds,  and  Canada,  just  across  the  border,  con- 
suming over  4  pounds,  all  people  with  similar 
habits  and  ideals  and  speaking  the  same  lan- 
guage, we  certainly  should  be  able  to  double  our 
present  consumption.  If  we  could  do  that  the 
business  would  be  much  more  worth  while  for  all 
engaged  in  it. 


TABLE  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  KINDS  OF  TEAS 
AND  THE  REPRESENTATIVE  TEA-GROWING 
DISTRICTS  OF  THE  WORLD. 

CHINA 

China  Greens  (Shanghai) 

Country  Greens 

Cup    Qualities  Grading  for  All  Country 

Moyunes     (Nankin,     Pak-  Greens 

heong,     and    Hyson    Li-       Moyunes:    Fancy,    Choice, 
quored).  Finest,     Fine,     Medium, 

Teen  Kais.  Standard. 

Fychows.  Teen  Kais:  Fancy,  Choice, 

Soeyoens.  Finest,     Fine,     Medium, 

Wenchows.  Standard. 

Local  Packs.  Fyohows:      (Smoky     Teas 

not     admitted      to     the 
United  States). 
Soeyoens. 
Wenchows,   and 
Local  Packs. 

133 


Hoochows    Ping     Sueys. 
Style   or    Make: 
Pin  Heads. 
Exitra  Gunpowder. 
First  Gunpowder. 
Second  Gunpowder. 
Third  Gunpowder. 
First  Pea  Leaf. 
Second  Pea  Leaf. 
First  Young  Leaf. 
First  Young  Hyson. 
Second  Young  Hyson. 


CHINA  CONGOUS  (Black) 
(So-Called  English  Breakfast) 


South   China 
(Red  Leaf  Congou) 

Kaisow. 

Cheong-lok. 

Chick-iSowkai. 

Ching-wo. 

Saryune. 

Soumoo. 

Sin-Chune. 

Suey-Kut. 

Yung-How. 

YuTig-'Tong.  (Choice  to 
choicest,  fine  to  finest, 
good   to   superior,    fair.) 

Paklin. 

Pak'lum. 

Panyong. 

North  China 
(Black  Leaf  Congous) 
Moning. 
Ning-chow. 
Ke-mun. 
Ichang. 
Kin-tuk. 
Confa. 
Oonam. 
Chun  Sowkai. 
Yung  Low  Tung. 
Oopak. 
Lildng. 
Kutoan. 
Ho -How. 
Sunntan. 


Other  Congous 
Campoi. 
Canton. 
Hoyune. 
Padrae. 
Pekoe. 
Pouchong. 
Qui- fa. 
Tayshan. 

■Souchongs 

OSeldom  used  in  America) 

Canton.  (New  Make  or 
Macaos.) 

Lapsing.  (Foochow-Lou- 
chong.) 

Oolong-iSouchong. 

Padrae. 

Pekoe. 

Tenmow-quipf-n.  OChoicest, 
extra  fine  to  finest,  su- 
perior to  fine,  common 
to   fair.) 

Panyong. 

Scented    Teas 

Capers. 
Pekoes. 
Powc  hongs    (Foochows, 

Cantons,  Macaos). 
Pekoes:      Pekoe,      Orange 

Pekoe,    Flowery    Pekoe, 

Hung-muey. 
Pouchongs:    Pouchong, 

Pouchong- Pekoe, 


134 


Padra-Pouchong. 
"Canton  Scented. 

("^Congee.") 
Macao. 

China   Oolong    (Black) 
Amoy:     Kokews,     Mohea, 

Ningyong,    Ankois,    Bo- 

hea. 
Foochow:   Saryune,  String 

Teas.    (Choicest  to 

Choice,    Finest,    Fine, 

'Superior,   Good,   Fair.) 
Brands     "Chops":     Tong- 

mow,     Tong-lee,     Tong- 

shinig,     Chun-fa,    'Shun- 


fat,  iSun-kee, 
Cum -wo  and 
kut. 

Suey  Kut, 

Ching  Wo. 

Tycon. 

Panyong. 

Padrae. 

Pekoe- Oolong. 

Various 

Mandarin. 
Compressed. 
Fannings. 
Dust. 


Cheng- ke, 
Cum-wo- 


NDASIA 


(India,  Ceylon,  Java) 


Northern    India 
Districts 
Assam. 
Diarjeeling. 
Dooars. 
Punjab. 
Dehra-Dun. 
Kangra. 
Kumaon. 
Sylhet. 
Caehar. 
Madras. 
Nilgirns. 
Terai. 
Ohittagong. 

Travancore.    (Southern 
India.) 


India    Greens 
Uncolored 
Young  Hyson. 

(1st    and    2nd.) 
Hyson.      (1st  and  2nd.) 
Fannings. 
Dust. 
Gradings:   India   (Black) 
Broken  Orange-Pekoe. 
Orange -Pekoe. 
iFlowery  Orange- Pekoe. 
Pekoe. 

Pekoe- Souchong. 
Souchong. 
Fannings. 
Dust. 

India  Greens 
Colored 
Gunpowder.    (1st  and  2nd.) 
Imperial.   (1st  and  2nd.) 
Young  Hyson. 

(1st  and  2nd.) 
Sow  Mee. 
Hyson.      (1st  and  2nd.) 


135 


CEYLON 


Black 

Broken  Onange  Pekoe. 
Orange  Pekoe. 
Flowery  Orange  Pekoe. 
Pekoe  (1st  and  2nd,) 
Broken  Pekoe- 
Pekoe  iSouchong. 
Broken  Pekoe  iSouchong. 
Fannings. 
Dust. 


Green 

Gunpowder.    (1st  and  2nd.) 
Imperial.    (1st  €Lnd  2nd.) 
Young  Hyson. 

(1st  and  2nd.) 
Hyson.    (1st  and  2nd.) 
Dust  and  Siftings.    (Choice 

to  Fancy,  Fair  to  Good.) 


JAVA 


Black 

Pekoe. 

Pekoe- Souchong. 

Congou. 

Oolong. 


Green 

Imperial. 
Hyson. 
Young  Hyson. 


JAPAN   AND   FORMOSA 


Japan 

Pan- fired. 
Sun-dried. 
Basket-fired. 
Porcelain -fired. 

Gradlngs 
Extra- choicest. 
Choicest. 
CTioice. 
Finest. 
Fine. 

Good  Medium. 
Good  Common. 
Common. 


^        Formosa  Oolong 

(Tamsui) 

Fancy,  Choicest,. 
Choice,  Finest. 
Fine,  Fully  tSuperior. 
iSuperior,  Fully  Good. 
Good  Cargo,  Fair. 
Cargo,  Common. 

Leading  Districts 
Chap  Ko  Hoon. 
Pai  'chie. 
'Sinteam. 
Chuitngka. 


OTHER    COUNTRIES 


UNITED    STATES 
South    Carolina 
CPinehurst  Tea  Estate) 
Souchong. 
Oolong. 
Sun-cured. 
Shelter. 
Green. 
Compressed  Tablets. 


Natal  Africa 
Golden  Pekoe. 
Pekoe  iSouchong. 
Flowery  Pekoe. 
Souchong,  and  other 
Chinese-named  Blacks. 


136' 


Note. — Divers  China  Teas  included  in  this; list 
are  either  too  low-grade  to  be  allowed  entry  to  the 
United  States,  or  too  expensive  for  export,  conse- 
quently unknown  to  the  general  trade.  There  are 
also  some  couple  of  hundred  or  so  plants  here  and 
there  about  the  Globe  which  are,  or  have  been, 
used  locally  for  making  "tea-like"  infusions,  as  the 
"Camomile  Tea"  of  Germany^  the  "Cowslip  Tea" 
of  the  British,  the  "Teamsters'  Tea"  of  Arizona, 
the  "Revolution  Tea"  of  New  Jersey,  the  "Coffee- 
leaf  Tea"  of  Indasia,  etc.  There  are  estimated 
to  be  some  three  thousand  tea  brands,  blends, 
trade-names,  trade-marks,  package-names,  etc.,  in 
the  world. 


WORTH    REMEMBERING 

It  is  well  to  bear  in  mind  that  all  Tea  is  pro- 
duced from  the  same  shrub  (or  tree),  conditions 
being  responsible  for  the  various  types:  altitude, 
country,  soil,  season,  preparation,  etc. 

Theine:  Is  an  alkaloidal  substance  found  in 
the  Tea  leaf,  chemically  identical  with  Caffeine 
(of  Coffee).  The  Theine  content  of  Tea  averages 
2%. 

Tea  Taster:  An  expert  judge  of  the  cup  quality 
of  the  leaf;  one  who  judges  Tea  by  testing  in  the 
cup  and  in  the  hand. 

Gha  Si  (Chinese) :  An  American  or  English  Tea 
tester— the  most  important  man  in  the  "hong" 
factory,  field  or  garden. 

Chop:  A  ''Chop  o'Tea"  is  a  collection  of  a  num- 
ber of  lines  of  Tea  under  one  brand  name,  and 
may  consist  of  one  or  many  more  of  various 
grades. 

Line:  A  line  of  Tea  consists  of  one  grade  in 
a  "Chop,"  usually  about  eighty  "half  chests,"  but 
may  be  more  or  less. 

String  Teas:  South  China  Tea  made  into  Oolong. 

137 


This   Tea   is    always    very   carefully   and   heavily 
fired,  and  has  a  heavy  burnt  flavor. 

Broker:  A  Tea  broker  is  one  who  negotiates 
the  sale  of  Tea  from  one  dealer  to  another,  for 
the  consideration  of  a  brokerage  from  the  seller. 
The  brokerage  is  usually  2%  on  general  business, 
and  1%  on  invoices. 

As  said  before,  the  better  grades  of  Dooars  and 
Assams  are  rich,  heavy  liquoring  Teas,  but  do 
not  approach  the  Darjeeling  in  flavor  and  aroma. 

Teas  are  principally  grown  in  the  following 
countries:  India,  Ceylon,  Java,  Sumatra,  China, 
Japan  and  Formosa.  (It  is  also  grown  in  small 
quantities  in  South  Africa,  and  in  a  very  limited 
way  in  South  Carolina,  U.  S.  A.) 

Each  of  the  principal  Tea-growing  countries 
produce  several  different  grades  of  the  two  varie- 
ties marketed,  namely  fermented  or  Black,  and  un- 
fermented  or  Green. 

Tea-Consuming  Countries,  and  the  amount  con- 
sumed per  capita  annually:  Australia  uses  SVo  to 
9  pounds  per  capita,  England  uses  GV^  to  7  pounds 
per  capita,  Canada  uses  5  pounds  per  capital, 
Russia  uses  2i^  pounds  per  capita,  United  States 
uses  not  quite  1  pound  per  capita. 

In  Great  Britain,  "Brokens"  are  used  almost  ex- 
clusively. 

The  origin  of  some  Tea  names:  "Gunpowder" 
Tea  is  claimed  Anglo-Saxon.  The  name  was  origi- 
nally suggested  by  its  small,  round,  shot-like  form. 
The  Chinese  call  it  "Pearl  Tea"  or  *'Choo-Cha." 

It  would  seem  that  nearly  all  Tea  titles  now  in 
use  were  originally  of  Chinese  origin.  However, 
most  of  them  are  corruptions.  E.  G.  "Congou" 
from  "Kung-Fu"  (Labor).  "Souchong"  from  "Siau- 
Chung"  (small  sprouts).  "Pekoe"  from  "Pak-Ho" 
(white  hair),  referring  to  the  down  on  the  young 
leaves. 

"Young  Hyson"  from  "Yu-Tsien"  (before  the 
rains)  or  (young  spring-time). 

138 


"Hyson"  from  "Hetslen"  (spring-time),  the  sea- 
son of  the  first  and  second  picking. 

"Oolong"  fronn  *K)u-Loung  (black  dragon),  no 
doubt  referring  to  the  black  leaves  mixed  with  the 
yellowish  green. 

Imperial:  Derives  its  name  from  its  resem- 
blance to  Tea  used  in  the  Imperial  household,  and 
is  sometimes  called  "Big  Gunpowder." 

Denatured  Tea:  Tea  which  the  English  cus- 
toms deem  unfit  for  consumption.  This  is  mixed 
with  lime  and  asafetida  and  marked  "denatured." 
In  this  iway  the  Theine  or  Caffeine  content  is  ex- 
tracted and  used  in  medicines. 

Dust:  The  powdery  and  smallest  siftlnga  from 
the  sieving  process,  being  leaf  practically  reduced 
to  powder.  Importation  of  this  class  of  Tea  is 
practically  forbidden  into  the  United  States. 

India  Teas  are  called  the  "Bergundy  of  Teas." 
They  differ  somewhat  from  Ceylon,  being  deep 
black,  and  the  latter  a  dark  brown. 

They  are  stronger  than  Ceylon,  due,  it  is  said, 
to  soil  fertilization  and  to  the  fact  that  the  Juice 
that  is  expressed  from  them  in  the  fermentation 
process  is  put  back.  (?) 


TEA  IMPORTS,  PRICE  AND  CONSUIVDPTION 
Five  Year  Averages — 1851-1914 


Import 

Per  Capita 

.K.l^4i     1.,.^ 

Price 
Per  Lb. 

Con- 
sumption. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Period. 

Pounds. 

Dollars. 

Cents. 

Pounds. 

1851-55... 

19,476,000 

5,254,000 

27.16 

.760 

1856-60... 

22,578,000 

5,461,000 

24.64 

.758 

1861-65... 

24,814,000 

6,265,000 

24.56 

.740 

1866-70. . . 

39,973,000 

11,670,000 

28.22 

l.OSO 

1871-75... 

57,090,000 

20,643,000 

36.08 

1.36S 

1876-80... 

61,981,000 

16,454.000 

26.60 

1.302 

1881-85... 

70,471.000 

16,185,000 

22.70 

1.316 

1886-90... 

82,597,000 

13,956,000 

17.02 

1.376 

1891-95... 

89,675,000 

13.676,000 

15.52 

1.340 

1896-00. .. 

85,217,000 

11,356,000 

13.20 

1.186 

1901-05... 

95.814,000 

13.848,000 

14.20 

1.162 

1906-10... 

93,594,000 

15,210,000 

16.24 

1.036 

1911-14... 

95,954,000 

17,200.000 

18.00 

.980 

139 


MATe,  VERBA  MATl^,  OR  PARAGUAY  T€A 

The  Mate  tree  grows  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  in 
height,  and  produces  leaves  resembling  those  of  a 
pear  tree;  is  considered  a  species  of  Holly.  It  is 
used  universally  in  Brazil,  also  in  other  parts 
of  South  America,,  as  a  beverage  which  corre- 
sponds to  the  "Tea"  of  other  countries. 

The  leaves  are:  ground  to  a  coarse  powder,  some- 
times, but  more  frequently  of  late  years  the  leaves 
and  small  young  shoots  or  twigs  are  simply 
broken,  ranging  from  coarse  to  fine,  with  as  small 
a  percentage  of  powder  as  possible. 

Mate  is  prepared  very  much  in  the  same  manner 
as  our  "Tea,"  and  may  be  taken  with  sugar  and 
cream,  although  it  seems  to  be  more  popular  clear, 
as  it  is  preferred  extremely!  hot. 

Where  the  powdered  form  is  used  (and  this  is 
still  the  popular  form  in  many  districts),  the 
beverage  is  taken  through  a  small  tube  called  a 
"  Bomb  ilia."  Drinking  tubes  with  strainer  at  lower 
end,  shaped  very  much  like  a  deep  teaspoon  (pos- 
sibly not  quite  so  large),  with  the  flat  side  or  top 
covered  and  perforated  with  very  fine  holes.  The 
tube  is  possibly  as  large  as  an  ordinary  lead 
pencil,  and  as  long  or  longer.  The  upper  end 
is  slightly  flat.  Bombillas  are  made  from  silver 
and  other  metals,  and,  as  stated,  are  used  in  uni- 
versal Mate  (native  willow  Tea)  drinking  princi- 
pally in  South  American  countries. 

One  end  of  this  tube  is  in  the  form  of  a  bulb 
pierced  with  very  fine  holes.  This  acts  as  a  strainer 
and  prevents  the  powder  and  other  particles  from 
being  sucked  up  into  the  mouth.  The  Germans, 
however,  in  preparing  the  beverage  bring  it  to  a 
good  boil  and  then  dash  cold  water  into  it,  in  suf- 
ficient quantities  to  stop  the  boiling.  The  leaves 
or  powder  settle  and  the  Mate  may  then  be  taken 
as  pure  and  in  the  ordinary  way. 

The  effect  of  Mate  as  a  beverage  is  restorative 
and  stimulating.     The  component  parts  are  very 

14« 


similar  to  Tea  and  Coffee,  including  an  important 
percentage  of  their  stimulating  principles.  (Theine 
and  Caffeine.) 

Mate  or  Verba  Mate  (ilex  paragueyensis).  The 
consumption  is  enormous  throughout  the  Latin 
Republics — averaging  about  14  pounds  per  capita, 
or  nearly  double  the  per  capita  tea-consumption 
of  Australasia.  All  attempts  to  introduce  Mate 
among  northern  races  have  proved  commercial 
failures. 


i    L 


SPICES 

Spices:  Are  described  as  aromatic  vegetable 
substances  used  chiefly  to  season  food;  different 
portions  of  their  respective  plants  are  used.  Gin- 
ger comes  from  the  root  of  the  plant,  Cinnamon 
the  bark,  Cloves,  Nutmeg,  etc.,  represent  the  fruit, 
and  Sage,  Thyme  and  other  herbs  the  entire  upper 
part  of  the  plant. 

Their  essential  oils  are  chiefly  responsible  for 
their  aroma  and  characteristic  qualities. 

Tropical  Spices,  such  as  Pepper,  Ginger,  Nut- 
meg, Cloves,  and  Cinnamon  were,  because  of  their 
great  scarcity,  even  more  highly  regarded  in 
olden  times  than  they  are  now.  They  are  quite 
frequently  referred  to  in  the  Old  Testament,  and 
are  there  generally  classed  with  other  items  of 
considerable  value,  in  fact,  they  were  considered 
valuable  and  fit  presents  for  the  royal  families. 

It  is  a  matter  of  record  that  these  spices  were 
a  part  of  the  tribute  which  other  monarchs  paid  to 
Solomon.  The  wealthy  Romans  were  especially 
lavish  in  their  use,  in  the  preparation  of  food. 
Also  at  the  altars  and  at  funerals  burned  witli 
Incense. 

Arabia  was  popularly  credited  with  being  the 
home  of  all  spice  luxuries  in  ancient  times  and 
through  the  middle  ages,  but  this  was  largely  due 
to  the  fact  that  it  served  as  a  market  for  spicers 
or  spice  merchants  from  the  East  India  Islands, 
particularly  Ceylon.  As  time  advances,  we  find 
that  the  trade  occupies  an  important  position  in 
the  history  of  our  present  civilization.  For  a 
long  period  of  years  pepper  was  one  of  the  princi- 
pal items  of  commerce  between  India  and  Europe. 
Venice  and  Genoa,  and  other  cities,  became 
wealthy  largely  through  its  traffic.  Frequently 
rents  were  paid  in  pepper,  and  occasionally  a  tax 
Was  levied. 

Cloves,  Cinnamon  and  Nutmeg  are  responsible 
for  a  much  darker  chapter,  cloaking  many  deeds 
of  blood-satin  and  atrocity. 

142 


The  Portuguese  and  the  Dutch  for  generations 
maintained  their  control  of  the  supply  by  execut- 
ing any  but  government  employees  attempting  to 
engage  in  its  export,  by  destroying  plantations 
and  accumulated  stores  and  on  several  occasions 
by  massacring  entire  native  populations  to  prevent 
them  selling  to  other  nations. 

On  the  beginning  of  a  more  progressive  enlight- 
enment, the  destruction  of  monopoly  control  and 
the  scientific  cultivation  of  various  spice  plants, 
have  brought  an  abundance  of  all  varieties  at 
prices  which  transform  former  luxuries  into  an 
every-day  possibility  for  even  the  poorest  classes. 

Extensive  substituting  and  adulterations  were 
practiced  in  modern  commercialism,  for,  until 
quite  recently,  a  large  proportion  of  "Spices"  sold 
were  mixed  with  other  materials  that  greatly  re- 
duced their  strength,  impaired  their  natural  flavor 
and  greatly  injured  the  legitimacy  of  the  Spice 
business;  but  conditions  have  greatly  improved  in 
recent  years  and  both  retailers  and  consumers 
can  noiw,  by  exercising  a  little  judgment,  secure 
pure  high-grade   Spices  of  every  kind. 

This  improvement  has  had  a  decided  tendency 
to  restore  a  confidence  in  the  public,  and  in  con- 
sequence the  demand  has  been  greatly  stimulated. 
This  will  prove  very  profitable  to  the  merchant 
who  takes  advantage  of  the  changed  situation  by 
using  special  card  in  purchasing  good  stocks  and 
devoting  more  time  and  space  to  displaying  and 
explaining  them  where  necessary.  There  is  a 
nicer  profit  in  handling  Spice  than  in  most  grocery 
items.  There  is  a  wide  field  for  their  use;  in  con- 
sequence, there  is  enormous  quantities  used. 

All  Spices,  particularly  ground  Spices,  should  be 
protected  from  exposure  of  any  nature  by  keeping 
in  tightly-closed  receptacles. 

The  principal  Spices  of  general  modern  con- 
sumption are  Pepper,  Ginger,  Cinnamon,  Cloves, 
Allspice,  or   Pimiento,   Cayenne    Pepper,   Mustard, 

143 


Cassia,  Bay  Leaves,  Anise,  Capers,  Celery  Seed, 
Cardamon,  Caraway,  Dill,  Fennel  Caraway,  Corian- 
der Horseradish,  Sage,  Paprika,  Nutmeg,  Mace, 
Marjoram,  Turmeric,  Thyme  and  Savory.  Several 
of  these  are  known  as  sweet  herbs.  However,  they 
are  all  Spices  and  so  classified  and  recognized  in 
government  and  analytical  circles. 

Nutmeg:  The  Nutmeg  is  the  kernel  of  the  fruit 
of  a  tropical  tree,  native  to  Asia,  Africa  and  South 
America. 

The  pink  or  red  flesh  covering  it  is  the  almost 
equally  popular  Spice  known  as  Mace. 

The  whole  fruit  is  about  as  large  as  a  peach, 
and  of  a  yellowish-green  color.  It  is,  in  the  East 
Indies,  often   preserved  entire  as  a  sweetmeat. 

The  tree  begins  bearing  at  the  age  of  eight 
years,  and  continues  to  yield  for  about  seventy- 
five  years.  It  carries  ripe  fruit  at  all  seasons,  but 
there  are  three  principal  harvest  periods:  July, 
when  the  fruit  is  most  abundant  though  yielding 
thin  Mace,  November,  when  the  fruit  is  thickest 
but  the  Nutmegs  are  small,  and  March,  w^hen  both 
Nutmeg  and  Mace  attain  their  finest  condition, 
but  the  total  product  is  less  in  quantity,  on  account 
of  the  dryness  of  the  season. 

After  the  Nutmegs  have  been  gathered  and 
stripped  of  their  outer  covering  they  are  placed 
upon  gratings  over  slow  fires  and  dried  at  a  slow 
heat,  not  over  140°  F.,  until  the  kernel  rattles 
freely  in  the  shell. 

The  shells  are  next  cracked  and  removed,  and 
the  kernels  sprinkled  with  lime,  to  protect  them 
from  the  attacks  of  insects,  and  to  destroy  their 
power  of  germination,  and  then  packed  for  export 
in  tight  casks,  previously  soaked  and  coated  on 
the  inside  with  lime  wash.  In  this  condition  they 
will  keep  for  an  indefinite  length  of  time. 

In  purchasing  Nutmegs,  choose  those  which  are 
round  and  compact  In  shape,  of  oily  appearance 
and  heavy. 

144 


They  are  graded  and  quoted  by  the  number  to 
the  pound,  varying  from  80  to  14(>.  The  largest 
are  the  more  showy,  but  those  of  moderate  size, 
other  points  being  equal,  are  just  as  good  (even 
better  for  grinding). 

Light,  dried,  dull  kinds,  or  those  of  long,  oval 
shape,  should  be  avoided. 

The  bulk  of  the  United  States'  supply,  which  is 
more  than  the  total  consumption  of  all  other  coun- 
tries combined,  comes  from  Penang  and  Celebes, 
of  the  East  Indies.  There  is  also  a  small,  steady 
importation  from  the  British  West  Indies. 

Mace:  In  the  inner  covering  which  envelopes 
the  Nutmeg.  It  closely  resembles  a  lacerated 
membrane,  being  blood-red  and  somewhat  fleshy 
when  fresh.  It  is  prepared  for  market  by  being 
fully  flattened  out  and  dried  for  several  days  in 
the  sun,  much  of  it  becomes  red-yellowish  during 
process.  It  is  used  both  in  **blade"  and  ground 
form  to  spice  soups,  sauces,  pudding,  etc.,  its 
flavor  closely  resembling  Nutmeg,  but  being,  to 
many  tastes,  even  more  pleasing.  It  also  furnishes 
a  strong,  yellow,  volatile  oil,  and  a  red,  buttery, 
fixed  oil,,  which,  mixed  with  other  substances,  is 
known- as  Nutmeg  Balsam. 

The  bulk  of  the  supply  comes  from  Band!  (the 
best),  Penang,  Singapore,  Celebes,  and,  though 
only  to  a  comparatively  small  extent,  the  West 
Indies. 

Care  should  be  taken  to  choose  that  with  a  deep 
orange  color  and  clear,  transparent,  wax-like  ap- 
pearance.    Dull-looking  parcels  are  not  desirable. 

•** Macassar,"  "Papua"  and  "Bombay"  Mace  are 
fiictitious  titles  sometimes  given  to  a  wild  prod- 
uct, the  mixing  of  which  with  cultivated  Mace  is 
rated  adulteration. 

Mace  should  always  be  kept  in  airtight,  glass 
bottles   or  tin  boxes. 

Penang  Spices:  A  term  occasionally  applied  to 
a  mixture  of  various  spices,  employed  in  cooking, 
preserving,  etc. 

145 


CLOVES 

Cloves,  iwidely  used  for  flavoring  desserts  and 
confectionery,  and  medicinally,  are  the  dried 
flower  buds  of  the  Clove  tree.  As  packed,  they 
are  reddish  in  color,  but  this  changes  to  the  fa- 
miliar dark-brown  in  the  process  of  drying,  per- 
formed either  by  the  smoke  of  wood  fires  or  by 
exposure  to  the  sun. 

The  Clove  tree,  an  evergreen,  grows  to  a  height 
of  forty  feet,  bears  its  developed  Clove  buds  in  its 
seventh  year,  and  gives  two  crops  annually,  in- 
creasing its  productiveness  up  to  an  age  of  nearly 
a  hundred  years. 

The  average  yield  per  tree  is  about  five  pounds 
of  Clove  buds.  In  the  initial  drying  there  is 
usually  50%  loss  in  weight  and  another  8%  to  10% 
is  lost  in  shipment  to  Europe  or  America. 

Fully  two-thirds  of  the  Clove  crop  is  produced 
at  Zanzibar,  and  its  neighboring  Island  of  Pemba, 
but  the  quality  is  much  inferior  to  the  Penang  and 
Amboyna  prouct.  The  most  desirable  Clove  is 
the  full-sized  brown,  plump  bud,  and  the  Penang 
is  considered  the  finest  on  the  market.  Amboynas 
are  also  high  grade  and  very  desirable.  The  Zan- 
zibars,  owing  probably  to  the  inferior  methods  of 
drying  and  collecting,  are  often  shriveled  and 
black. 

The  Clove  industry  was  for  many  centuries  con- 
turies  confined  to  very  narrow  limits.  A  few 
Islands  of  the  Molucco  group  furnished  the  world's 
supply  up  to  the  beginning  of  the  seventeenth 
century;  then  the  Dutch,  having  driven  the  Por- 
tuguese out  of  the  "Spice  Islands,"  tried  to  destroy 
all  the  Clove  trees  except  those  on  the  Island  of 
Amboyna,  to  perfect  their  monopoly. 

Later  the  Island  of  Zanzibar  became  an  im- 
portant producer,  but  for  a  number  of  years  fol- 
lowing 1872  it  was  again  unproductive,  as  the  re- 
sult of  a  cyclone,  which  uprooted  nearly  all  of  the 
mature  fruit-bearing  trees. 

146 


An  interesting  result  of  the  cyclone  was  the 
release  from  the  Dutch  Government  warehouse  at 
Amboyna  of  surplus  Cloves  that  had  been  accumu- 
lating there  for  generations,  no  sales  having  been 
permitted  except  when  the  bids  reached  the  prices 
set  by  the  Government.  The  markings  on  some 
of  the  barrels  received  at  that  time  in  New  York 
showed  that  they  belonged  to  the  surplus  of  crops 
reaching  back  nearly  a  hundred  years.  Some  of 
the  barrels  were  ready  to  fall  to  pieces,  but  the 
Cloves  were  in  excellent  condition. 

The  principal  sources  of  supply  today  are  the 
Islands  of  Zanzibar  and  Pemba  (British  East 
Africa),  and  the  East  Indies  (both  Dutch  and 
British). 

The  best  grade  of  British  is  that  known  as 
Penang;  that  of  Dutch  is  Amboyna.  Dark,  well- 
formed  Cloves  are  the  best. 

Mother  Cloves  is  the  dry,  ripe  fruit.  It  some- 
what resembles  the  olive  in  appearance.  Its 
flavor  is  similar,  too,  but  much  weaker  than  that 
of  the  ordinary  Clove.  They  contain  little  oil 
and  are  not  suitable  as  a  spice.  Planters  further 
hold  that  the  growth  of  the  Mother  Clove  ex- 
hausts the  tree,  so,  therefore,  as  few  as  possible 
are  left  when  the  picking  season  is  over. 

Allspice,  also  called  Pimiento  and  Jamaica  pep- 
per, is  the  dried  fruit  of  a  small  West  Indian  tree 
called  the  Pimiento. 

It  is  about  the  size  of  a  pepper,  or  small  pea,  and 
is  gathered  when  fully  grown,  but  not  ripened, 
and  dried  in  the  sun.  It  is  called  Allspice  from  its 
supposed  resemblance  in  flavor  to  a  mixture  of 
Cinnamon,  Nutmeg  and  Cloves.  It  Ts  often  used 
in  place  of  Cinnamon. 

Cinnamon  is  the  spicy  bark  of  young  branches 
of  the  Cinnamon  tree,  cut  off  in  strips  and  dried 
in  the  sun,  curling  during  the  process  into  the 
quills  with  which  the  consumer  is  familiar. 

147 


Ceylon  Cinnamon  is  obtained  from  CInnamomum 
Zeylanicum,  native  to  Ceylon  but  also  cultivated 
to  some  extent  in  the  East  Indies.  Cassia  Cinna- 
mon is  from  Cannamomum  Cassia,  the  chief  East 
Indian  and  Chinese  type. 

Both  kinds  are  sold  both  in  quills  and  ground, 
their  fragrant,  aromatic  flavor  making  them  a 
popular  adjunct  in   cookery,   confectionery,   etc. 

Ceylon  Cinnamon  is  the  variety  referred  to  in 
the  general  article  on  Spice®,  as,  in  earlier  days,  a 
commodity  of  great  value  and  the  cause  of  many 
wars  and  much  bloodshed.  It  was  first  carried 
to  the  world's  markets  by  Arabs,  who  kept  its 
source  a  great  secret  for  a  number  of  centuries, 
and  contrived  to  discourage  possible  investigation 
by  stories  of  fabulous  monsters  inhabiting  the 
country  from  which  they  were  supposed  to  obtain 
it.  That  the  tree  grew  wild  in  Ceylon  was  not 
generally  known  until  the  fourteenth  century,  in 
spite  ot  the  fact  that  the  spice  had  been  continu- 
ously in  use  since  the  early  days  of  Israel,  Greece 
and  Rome. 

Ceylon  Cinnamon  is  of  a  pale  yellowish-brown 
color  and  generally  of  lighter,  cleaner  and 
smoother  appearance  than  Cassia. 

The  quills  (the  smaller  enclosed  in  the  larger) 
are  also  usually  thinner  and  more  tightly  rolled, 
but  these  distinctions  are  not  absolute,  as  there 
are  many  grades  of  Cassia. 

Cassia  Cinnamon  was  until  recent  years  decried 
as  an  inferior  imitation,  principally  because  the 
greater  part  of  the  supply  consisted  of  the  inferior 
and  poorly  prepared  China  product.  It  has,  how- 
ever, just  as  good  botanical  title  to  the  general 
name  of  "Cinnamon"  as  the  Ceylon  type,  as  the 
result  of  the  fine  quality  now  exported  from 
French  Cochin-China  and  the  Dutch  East  Indies. 
It  is  today  given  the  preference  in  the  United 
States  and  in  several  European  countries,  because 

14S 


its  flavor  is  more  pronounced  and  more  lasting. 
The  Ceylon  is  milder  and  so  much  more  volatile 
that  it  loses  readily  on  exposure  to  the  air. 

The  demand  for  Ceylon  Cinnamon  has  indeed  so 
lessened  that  commercial  interests  are  urging  the 
cultivation  of  Cassia  in  Ceylon  in  order  to  main- 
tain the  Island's  position  in  the  trade. 

In  analytical  circles,  the  Ceylon  variety  is  still 
conservatively  described  as  "True  Cinnamon"  in- 
stead of  the  commercial  term  "Ceylon  Cinnamon." 

The  lower  grades  of  Cassia  are  cheaper  than  any 
of  the  Ceylon  generally  marketed,  but  the  best 
qualities  are  more  expensive. 

The  four  main  grades  are  those  known  as  Saigon, 
or  Saigan,from  French  Cochin-China  (the  choicest) ; 
Corinche  and  Batavia  of  the  Dutch  East  Indies  and 
China  (the  cheapest).  Saigon  Cassia  is  generally 
used  for  blending  with  lower  grades. 


PEPPER 

The  Black  or  White  powdered  Pepper  used  as  a 
condiment  is  the  ground  fruit  of  the  Piper  Nigrum, 
(L>  a  perennial  climbing  shrub,  native  to  the  for- 
ests of  Western  and  Southern  India,  but  for  cen- 
turies cultivated  also  on  the  Maylon  Peninsula  and 
in  Sumatra,  Java  Ceylon  and  Slam,  and  to  a  lim- 
ited extent  in  Borneo  and  various  other  Tropical 
countries. 

The  fruit  is  a  small,  round  berry,  the  Pepper- 
in  loosely-packed  clusters  of  from  twenty  to 
thirty,  closely  attached  to  a  common  fruit  stalk, 
a  good  vine  producing  an  annual  average  of  from 
one  to  two  pounds. 

Pieces  of  the  stalk  may  often  be  found  in  whole 
black  Pepper  and  examination  will  show  the  de- 
pressions formed  where  the  berriqs  were  at- 
tached. 

149 


The  shrub  or  vine  grows  to  a  height  of  eight 
to  twelve  feet,  and  is  supported  either  by  poles  or 
trees.  The  "Peppercorns"  are  exported  in  bags  of 
64  to  128  pounds. 

Black  Pepper  consists  of  the  dried,  immature 
berries  of  the  shrub,  gathered  as  soon  as  one  or 
two  on  the  clusters  commence  to  turn  red. 

After  removal  from  the  stem  they  are  dried  in 
the  sun  or  near  a  mild  fire,  the  outer  fleshy  portion 
of  the  berry,  shriveling  in  the  process,  turning 
brown  or  black  and  becoming  hard,  brittle  and 
adherent  to  the  stony,  inner  portion,  thus  forming: 
a  hardened,  wrinkled  cortex. 

Among  the  principal  commercial  varieties  listed 
in  a  recent  Government  report  are:  Malabar  (Man- 
galare,  Tellicherry,  Alleppy,  etc.).  Singapore,  Pe- 
nang  and  Trang,  Acheen  (or  Sumatra  or  West 
Coast),  and  Lampong  (or  East  Coast),  named  eith- 
er from  the  place  of  cultivation  or  that  ot  ship- 
ment. 

Malabar  Peppers  are  those  from  me  Malabar 
Coast  of  India.  "Mangalore"  peppercorns  are  very 
large,  twicei  the  size  of  ordinary  pepper,  of  a 
deep  black,  very  clean  and  uniform,  giving,  when 
ground,  a  powder  of  greenish-black  appearance. 

Tellicherry  Pepper  is  that  grown  on  the  Malay 
Peninsula,  principally  in  the  Southern  extremity 
known  as  the  State  of  Jahore.  It  constitutes  a 
considerable  portion  of  all  the  pepper  raised,  and, 
because  of  its  dark  color  and  fairly  uniform  qual- 
ity, is  a  product  of  good  appearance.  It  is  not, 
however,  so  highly  regarded  for  grrnnding  purposes, 
because  of  its  smoky  odor.  The  pepper  and  gam- 
bier  plantations  of  Jahore  are  usually  under  one 
management,  and  the  pepper  is  dried  by  placing 
it  on  mats  suspended  over  the  kettles  in  which 
the  gambler  is  boiled  down  to  make  the  vegetable 
extract.  The  smoke  from  the  furnace  underneath 
dries  the  pepper,  but  at  the  same  time  imparts 
to  it  a  decidedly  smoky  smell,  which  is  retained  to 

l&O 


a  considerable  degree,  even  after  the  pepper  is 
ground.  It  is,  indeed,  one  of  the  tests  by  which 
the  pepper  merchant  determines  whether  a  given 
sample  is  Singapore  or  not. 

Trang  and  Penang  Pepper,  shipped  from  Pe- 
nang,  is  grown  in  either  Java  or  Sumatra.  It  is  of 
especially  rich  color. 

Acheen,  Sumatra  or  West  Coast  are  names  ap- 
plied to  the  pepper  obtained  from  Acheen,  the 
western  extremity  of  the  Island  of  Sumatra. 

Lampong  Pepper  or  East  Coast  is  grown  on  the 
east  end  of  the  Island  of  Sumatra,  near  the  Straits 
of  Sunda. 

As  a  rule,  the  heavier  the  Peppercorns  for  size, 
the  better  the  grade.  They  should  be  firm  and 
round,  clean  and  uniform  in  appearance  and  not 
too  much  furrowed. 

Acheen  Pepper  has  been  standardized  by  gen- 
eral agreement,  and  the  four  chief  grades  are 
now  determined  by  their  specific  gravity.  Classed: 
A.  B.  €.  D.  B  weighs  a  little  less  than  A,  C  less 
than  B,  and  D  less  than  C.  Dust  not  to  exceed 
3%  in  any  class. 

The  many  advantages  of  this  method  will  prob- 
ably result  in  its  extension  to  all  Black  Peppers  in 
the  near  future. 

The  other  varieties  described  in  this  work  are 
generally  superior  to  Acheen,  and  give  much  high- 
er results  on  the  weight  test.  For  example,  A 
grade  Acheen  weighs  4  lbs.  and  13  ozs.  to  the  Im- 
perial Gallon,  while  A  grade  Aileppey  sometimes 
weighs  as  much  as  6  lbs.  and  12  ozs.  and  contains 
practically  no  dust. 

Tellicherry  ranges  from  6  lbs.  to  6  lbs.  12  ozs., 
and  is  equally  clean..  Lampong  averages  about  6 
lbs.  with  a  dust  percentage  of  1V2%  to  3%,  and 
Singapore  from  5  lbs.  os  ozs.  to  5  lbs.  8  ozs.,  the 
dust  ranging  up  to  4%. 

151 


White  Pepper  is  practically  the  same  product  as 
Black  Pepper,  except  that  the  outer  shell  or  peri- 
carp of  the  berry  is  removed  to  a  greater  or  less 
extent  by,  friction,  following  soaking  in  water.  It 
is  sometimes  made  at  the  plantations,  but  just  as 
frequently  by  manufacturers  who  buy  the  Pepper- 
corns in  the  open  market. 

'Some  manufacturers  prefer,  for  White  Pepper, 
berries  that  have  been  allowed  to  ripen  before 
picking,  as  they  are  more  ea&ily  decorticated,  but 
this  is  not  a  universal  rule. 

Decorticated  White  Pepper  is  the  term  applied 
to  the  product  which,  in  addition  to  losing  the 
outer  dark  shell,  has  also  had  the  seed-coats 
partly  or  entirely  removed. 

There  are  numerous  qualdties  to  the  length  to 
which  the  process  has  been  carried.  The  most  ex- 
pensive is  that  from  which  all  three  seed-coats 
have  been  removed,  producing  smooth,  hard,  pearly 
kernels.  Other  grades  retain  one  or  two  seed- 
coats. 

There  are  several  grades  of  White  Pepper  on 
the  market,  corresponding  in  a  general  way  with 
Black  Pepper,  such  as  Singapore,  Penang,  Teili- 
cherry,  Siam,  etc. 

Coriander  White  Pepper  is  a  product  of  especi- 
ally attractive  appearance,  screened  to  uniform 
size  and  then  bleached. 

Shotted  Pepper:  Polished  in  a  cylinder  and 
sometimes  slightly  oiled  to  present  a  polished, 
glazed  appearance. 

Mignonette  Pepper:  A  term  sometimes  applied 
to  coarsely-ground  Peppercorns. 

Pepper  shells  is  the  by-product  of  external  shell 
or  cutjicle  obtained  in  the  manufacture  of  White 
Pepper. 

Ground  Pepper,  whether  Black  or  White,  should 
consist  only  of  whole  or  hulled  peppercorns  re- 
duced to  proper  fineness  by  grinding  and  sieving. 

152 


Long  Pepper  is  chiefly  derived  from  wild  plants 
of  the  genus  Chavico  Mlq.  The  fruit  spikes,  gath- 
ered when  green;  are  cylindrical  in  form  and  cov- 
ered with  closely  packed,  small,  round  berries. 
The  product  is  crudely  prepared,  the  berries  har- 
dened together  with  and  adhering  to  the  woody 
stem,  and  generally  including  a  large  quantity  of 
dirt  and  other  extraneous  matter.  It  does  not 
possess  the  fine  flavor  or  strength  of  true  pepper, 
and  its  addition  is  rated  as  adulteration.  Its  prin- 
cipal use  is  for  pickles. 


CAPSICUMS 

Red  Pepper,  Chilies,  Cayenne  Pepper  (some- 
times called  Guinea  Pepper),  Paprika. 

These  are  the  most  widely  cultivated  Spices  in 
the  world.  We  are  told  that  originally  the  plants 
were  natives  of  South  and  Central  America,  and 
the  various  names  used  in  the  different  sections  of 
the  'Globe  seem  to  prove  this  assertion. 

The  seeds  are  easily  transported,  and  have  there- 
fore been  brought  to  almost  every  country  for  cul- 
tivation. 

The  growth  is  most  favorable  in  the  warmer 
climates,  and  the  crop  is  always  in  largo  demand 
by  the  natives  in  the  fresh  state  as  a  vegetable. 

Red  Pepper  is  the  powdered  ripe  pod,  both  flesh 
and  seeds,  of  any  variety  of  Capsicum,  the  plant 
which  gives  us  the  edible  fresh  "pepper,"  but  which 
bears  no  relation  to  the  true  pepper-plan:. 

The  most  noted  varieties  are  cultivated  exten- 
sively in  the  East  and  West  Indies,  Mexico  and  the 
Southern  States. 

Cayenne  Pepper  is  distinguished  from  Red  Pep- 
per lin  general  by  its  dull  red  or  brick  red  color,  as 
compared  to  the  brighter  red   of  Red  Pepper. 

153 


Napaul  and  many  other  Cayenne  Peppers  are 
extremely  light-colored,  as  they  should  naturally 
be  if  properly  made  from  the  ground  seeds  alone, 
unmixed  with  the  redder  husks  of  the  fruit  cap- 
sules. Hence,  the  lighter  color  and  milder  flavor 
of  genuine  Cayenne  Pepper. 

Capsicum  Seeds  after  the  removal  of  the  peri- 
carp and  thoroughly  washed  and  dried  are  en- 
tirely devoid  of  acridity  and  pungency. 

The  best-known  commercial  varieties  are  Zanzi- 
bar, Mcmbassa,  Sierra  Lecone  and  Japan,  the 
last  named  being  less  pungent  than  the  others. 
Named  after  Cayenne,  a  city  of  French  Guiana. 

Napaul  Pepper  is  from  a  capsicum  grown  in 
Nepaul,  Indiia.  It  is  a  choice  variety  of  Cayenne 
Pepper,  yellowish-red  and  very  pungent,  but  of 
especially  agreeable  flavor. 

Cayenne  is  a  powerful  stimulant,  producing  a 
sense  of  heat  in  the  stomach  and  a  general  glow 
throughout  the  body  without  narcotic  effect.  In 
small  amounts  it  is  an  aid  to  digestion,  particularly 
of  vegetables,  which  partly  accounts  for  its  general 
use  in  warm  weather. 

Paprika,  also  called  Hungarian  Pepper  and  Sweet 
Cayenne  Pepper,  is  the  powdered  flesh  (only)  of  a 
long,  fruited  variety  of  common  Capsicum,  grown 
principally  in  Hungary  and  Spain,  but  also  to  an 
increasing  extent  here.  It  is  red  and  mildly  pun- 
gent. 

The  several  grades  are  determined  by  the  selec- 
tion of  the  peppers  and  their  treatment,  both  be- 
fore and  after  grinding.  Pods  of  especially  reddish 
color  and  mild  flavor  are  considered  the  choicest. 
Sharpness  of  taste  denotes  inferiority. 

Paprika  is  a  very  valuable  Spice  for  flavoring 
dishes,  and  is  almost  universally  liked  even  on  the 
first  use.    It  should  always  be  kept  dry. 

Chili,  or  Chiles:  The  Mexican,  and  quite  gen- 
erally the  popular  name  for  the  pods  of  several 
species  of  small-fruited,  specially  pungent  Capsi- 
cums,  put  up   as   a  separate   pickle  or  added  to 

154 


"mixed  pickles,"  etc.  They  are  largely  consumed 
in  hot  countries. 

The  two  Mexican  dishes  containing  them  which 
are  best  known  here  are  Chili-Con-Carne  and  the 
Chicken  Tamale.  The  word  is  also  used  as  a 
group  name  for  many  articles  highly  seasoned 
either  with  whole  Capsicums  or  Cayenne  Pepper, 
etc. 

The  Japan  Chili  is  a  bright-red  fruit,  about  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  long.  There  is  a  Japan  Chili 
imported  which  averages  about  one  and  one-quar- 
ter inches  long,  but  the  smaller  size  is  usually 
preferred.  This  article  is  the  favorite  in  the  pick- 
ling trade,  and  is  also  used  in  the  grind  to  lend 
a  bright  color  to  Cayenne  Pepper.  It  does  not 
passess  as  much  strength  as  some  other  grades  of 
Chilies,  and  is  not  usually  ground  alone. 

The  usual  original  trade  package  is  a  pocket  of 
501  or  lOQ  pounds. 

The  Mombassa  Chill  is  a  fruit  about  one-half 
inch  in  length,  of  a  browninsh-red  color,  and  is 
considered  the  strongest  grinding  chili  on  the 
market  today. 

The  original  package  is  also  either  a  50  or  lOO*- 
pound  pocket. 

The  Bombay  Capsicum  is  a  pod  about  two  or 
three  inches  long  with  a  thick  skin  and  a  heavy 
stem.  It  is  usually  the  cheapest  grade  available 
for  grinding,  and  if  a  lot  of  bright,  red,  clean  pods 
are  secured,  will  produce  a  good  colored  powder 
of   considerable    strength. 

The  Bombay  Capsicum  is  mixed  with  Mombassa 
or  other  strong  Chilies  by  many  grinders  to  pro- 
duce a  strong,  ground  red  Pepper  at  a  moderate 
price. 

To  the  native  of  India  Spices  and  condiments 
are  indispensable.  Dr.  Watts  says:  *'He  will  eat 
contentedly  by  the  stream-side  a  meal  of  uncooked 
flour  and  iwater,  provided  it  is  flavored  with  a  few 
green;  Chilies." 

155 


Most  shipments  of  the  article  arrive  in  bales 
of  about  240  pounds  each. 

Japan  Capsicums  are  similar  to  the  Bombay  in 
size,  but  have  a  less  heavy  skin  and  usually  a 
lesser  proportion  of  stem.  They  do  not  make  a 
strong  grind,  and  are  used  chiefly  in  mixture  with 
stronger  grades  to  produce  a  ground  red  Pepper. 

The  Bombay  Cherry  (Pepper)  is  a  blunt  cylin- 
drical fruit,  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in 
length,  bright  red  color  and  free  from  stem.  It 
possesses  fair  strength  and  makes  a  good-colored, 
desirable  grind. 

The  usual  package  is  a  bale  of  about  240 
pounds. 

The  loss  in  weight  from  the  grind  of  red  Pepper 
is  considerable  and  owing  to  the  moisture  in  some 
grades,  many  millers  have  trouble  in  preparing 
their  product. 

There  is  a  diversity  of  opinion  as  to  what  con- 
stitutes a  Cayenne  and  what  a  red  Pepper,  the 
common  idea  being  that  the  product  of  a  grind 
of  any  Capsicum  produces  either. 

In  the  writer's  opinion  the  same  standard  should 
govern  either  or  both,  as  the  laymen  knows  no 
such  fine  difference,  but  desires  the  one  article, 
whether  he  refers  to  it  as  Cayenne  or  red  Pepper. 

Chili  Teplne:  A  small  round  red  to  yellowish- 
red  pepper,  pleasantly  pungent,  about  the  size  of 
an  ordinary  pea.  Grown  in  iVIexico,  South  and 
Central  America.  Perhaps  more  extensively,  how- 
ever, in  Mexico  than  elsewhere.  Used  principally 
for  flavoring  meats,  fish,  soups,  etc. 

Tabasco:  A  long-podded  red  pepper  (also  short 
and  also  green),  cultivated  chiefly  in  Southern 
Louisiana. 

It  is  best  known  to  commerce  as  Tabasco  'Pep- 
per Cause,  a  rich,  red,  concentrated  extract,  gen- 
erally put  up  in  small  bottles  with  corks  shaped 
for  dropping.  It  is  also  sold  powdered,  but  to  less 
extent. 

156 


Tabasco  Sauce  is  excellent  for  flavoring  soups, 
salads,  etc,  and  some  people  like  it  on  oysters, 
fish  and  meats.  Only  small  quantities  should  be 
used,  as  it  is  very  strong.  In  making  sauces,  etc.. 
If  a  sharp,  quick  effect  is  desired,  mix  with  vinegar. 
If  otherwise,  mix  first  with  olive  oil  and  salt,  and 
'then  with  vinegar,  the  result  will  be  soft  and  deli- 
cate, but  still  strongly  marked  by  the  characteris- 
tic Tabasco  flavor. 


TABASCO  PEPPER  CULTURE 

How  the  Tabasco  Variety  Is  Grown  and  Prepared 
for  the  Market 

This  description  of  the  methods  pursued  in  the 
cultivation  and  preparation  of  peppers  for  the 
market  refers  to  a  particular  type  of  Tabasco  Pep- 
per grown  in  the  parishes  bordering  the  bank  of 
the  River  Teche,  in  Louisiana.  The  details  are 
furnished  by  the  Creole  Pepper  Company  of  New 
Orleans. 

**The  soil  along  the  banks  of  the  Teche,"  says 
this  grower  and  packer,  "seems  to  possess  what  is 
necessary  to  mature  the  'green'  flavor  which  tabas- 
co peppers  alone  possess." 

"Attempts  have  been  made  to  increase  the  acre- 
age by  raising  the  peppers  from  the  same  seed, 
in  other  parishes,  but  while  the  peppers  were  'at- 
tractive' to  the  eye,  and  'hot'  to  the  palate,  they 
lacked  the  peculiar  flavor  of  the  genuine  Tabasco, 
grown  in  the  Teche  country." 

"Three  varieties  are  cured,  known  as  the 
'Oreen,'  large  and  small,  'Red'  Tabasco  Peppers. 
The  'green'  are  flrm  and  will  keep  indefinitely 
when  properly  cured  and  constantly  covered  with 
brine.  Perhaps  they  possess  more  of  the  bona 
fide  tabasco  flavor  than  do  'the  'red,'  and  they  are 
not  quite  so  pungently  hot.  This  'green'  tabasco 
is  quite  a  favorite  with  the  Creole  epicures,  who 
use  them  on  the  same  plate  with  their  dinners." 

1'57 


"The  crop  is  a  costly  one,  and  the  plants  are 
delicate  shrubs.  Severe  winds,  which  come  every 
now  and  then;  excessive  rains,  or  early  cold 
weather,  all  have  an  important  bearing  on  the 
annual  crop,  the  gathering  of  which  begins  in 
August  and  continues  until  November." 

"The  peppers  are  gathered  mainly  by  women 
and  children.  They  are  preferably  picked  in  the 
early  morning,  and  they  must  be  at  the  curing 
plant  and  in  the  brine  within  six  hours  from  the 
time  they  havq  been  taken  from  the  bushes,  and 
the  peppers  remain  in  this  brine  solution,  con- 
sisting of  nothing  but  salt  and  water,  until  they, 
have  been  sufficiently  cured.  This  process  takes 
from  four  days  to  a  week,  according  to  the  weather 
conditions  prevailing  at  the  time." 

Capsicum.  There  are  many  species  of  Capsicum, 
all  natives  to  the  warm  parts  of  America,  Africa 
and  Asia,  and  now  cultivated  in  every  part  of  the 
iworld.  The  small-fruited  types,  generally  the  most 
pungent,  are  best  known  popularly  as  "Chi lies," 
and  the  larger  as  "•Peppers." 

Chilies  are  used  whole  in  vinegars,  pickles,  etc., 
for  making  popular  hot  dishes,  and  to  grind  into 
Cayenne  Pepper,  and  "Peppers"  are  eaten  as  a 
vegetable,  and  ground  into  Red  Pepper  and  Pap- 
rika. 


IVIUSTARD 

The  IVIustard  in  general  use  as  a  condiment  con- 
sists of  the  crushed  seeds  of  the  IVIustard  plant, 
native  to  England,  but  capable  of  almost  universal 
cultivation. 

The  mature  plant  ranges  from  three  to  six  feet 
in  height,  and  has  bright-yellow  flowers.  There 
are  two  chief  varieties,  the  white,  producing  pale- 
yellow  seeds,  and  the  black,  with  seeds  smaller, 
more  irregular  and  dark  brown  on  the  outside, 
though  also  ye  I  law  Inside. 

158 


In  trade  circles,  the  products  are  distinguished 
as  "Yellow  and  "Brown,"  but  there  is  little  dif- 
ference in  composition,  and  the  retail  product  is 
generally  a  mixture  of  the  two. 

Mustard  was  used  medicinally  by  the  most  cele- 
brated physicians  of  antiquity. 

As  a  condiment  it  dates  from  the  latter  part  of 
the  sixteenth  century,  but  it  was  little  known  until 
the  year  1729,  when  an  old  woman  of  the  name 
of  Clements,  residing  in  Durham,  England,  began, 
to  grind  the  seed  in  a  mill  and  to  pass  the  flour 
through  the  several  processes  necessary  to  free  it 
from  the  husks.  She  kept  her  secret  for  many 
years,  selling  (large  quantiti^^  throughout  the 
country,  especially  in  London.  The  product  ob- 
tained the  name  of  Durham  Mustard,  from  her  resi- 
dence in  that  city. 

The  manufacture  of  Mustard  at  first  consisted 
essentially  of  grinding  the  seed  into  a  very  fine 
flour,  a  bushel  of  seed  weighing  sixty  pounds  yield- 
ing only  twenty-eight  to  thirty  pounds  of  flour 
Mustard. 

Manufacturers  soon  discovered  that  they  could 
please  the  public  palate  better  by  modifying  the 
pungency  of  the  flavor,  and  the  result  is  that  to- 
day it  is  made  in  a  great  variety  of  styles,  each 
establishment  following  its  own  formula  for  mel* 
lowing,  blending,  mixing,  etc.  Genuine  Mustard 
is  easily  obtainable,  but  it  does  not  please  the 
general  taste  as  well  as  the  prepared,  modified 
article. 

In  moistening  or  "mixing'*  dry  mustard,  or  mus- 
tard flour,  two  main  objects  must  be  kept  in  view. 
First,  to  obtain  the  desired  consistency.  Srcond/ 
to  make  it  perfectly  smooth.  To  produce  these 
effects,  add  the  liquid  in  small  quantities  and  rub 
and  pound  the  mustard  well  with  a  spoon.  The 
simplest  form  of  preparation  consists  of  mustard 
flour,  moistened  with  sufficient  water  to  produce 
the  consistency  of  thick  batter,  with  half  a  tea- 
sipoonful   of   salt   added   for   each   two   ounces   of 

159 


mustard  flour.  Some  people  like  the  fine,  pow- 
dered sugar  included  in  the  same  proportion  as 
salt.  Vinegar  and  Olive  Oil  can  be  used  according 
to  taste,  but  some  cold  water  is  necessary  for  the 
first  mixing  in  order  to  develop  the  pungency. 

If,  for  immediate  use,  milk,  or  milk  and  cream, 
may  be  employed  in  place  of  either  vinegar  or  oil. 

The  greatest  part  of  the  prepared  mustard  now 
enjoying  popular  use  and  favor  consists  of  50% 
to  75%'  vinegar,  flour  thickening  and  various  con- 
diments. 

U.  S.  prepared  mustard  is  a  paste  composed  of 
a  mixture  of  ground  Mustard  Seed  or  Mustard 
Flour,  Salt,  Spices  and  Vinegar. 


GINGER 

Ginger  (Hanbury  says  it  was  well  known  in 
England  prior  to  the  Norman  Conquest),  in  its 
commercial  form  is  the  root-stock  of  the  Ginger 
plant,  a  perennial  reed-like  plant  with  annual  leafy 
stems,  three  or  four  feet  high,  which  grows  freely 
in  moist  places  in  all  tropical  climates. 

The  root  is  gathered  when  the  stalk  withers  and 
is  immediately  scalded,  or  washed  and  scraped, 
in  order  to  kill  it  and  prevent  sprouting. 

The  former  method,  applied  generally  to  the 
oldier  and  poorer  roots,  produces  black  Ginger. 
The  latter  gives  white  Ginger. 

The  natural  color  of  the  "white"  scraped  Ginger 
is  a  pale^buff.  It  is  often  whitened  by  bleaching 
or  liming,  but  generally  at  the  expense  of  some  of 
its  real  value. 

White  Ginger  of  the  first  grade  should  be  large, 
light-buff  throughout,  soft  and  even  in  cutting  and 
of  strong  characteristic  flavor.  The  present  sup- 
ply comes  chiefly  from  Jamaica,  the  Malabar  Coast 
of  India  and  the  East  Indies.  "Cochin"  and  "Cali- 
cut" are  titles  borroswed  from  the  two  Indian  cities 
of  those  names. 

160 


African  Ginger  is  dark,  but  has  an  excellent, 
strong  flavor.  Borneo  Ginger  is  merely  a  former 
trade  term  for  some  white  Ginger.  None  is  ex- 
ported from  Borneo. 

Japan  Ginger,  usually  bleached  or  limed  before 
shipment,  is  of  fine  appearance,  large  and  smooth, 
J)ut  is  much  inferior  in  strength  to  the  other  va- 
rieties mentioned. 

Preserved  or  conserved  or  Canton  Ginger  con- 
sists of  young,  green  roots  boiled  and  cured  in 
syrup  and  put  in  pots  and  jars.  The  principal 
consumption  is  of  the  imported  Chinese  product, 
but  there  is  an  increasing  sale  of  West  Indian. 

Crystal ized  Ginger  is  also  made  from  the  youn- 
ger roots.  The  best  grades  from  roots  selected 
for  uniform  size  and  appearance  are  called  "Stem 
Ginger." 

Medicinally,  Oinger,  as  Jamaica  Ginger,  etc.,  is 
a  grateful  stimulant  and  carminative,  being  much 
used  for  dyspepsia,  colic,  etc.  lit  is  also  frequently 
employed  to  disguise  the  taste  of  nauseous  medi- 
cines. Ginger  Tea  is  an  old-fashioned  remedy  for 
colds. 

''Switchell'  is  a  summer  drink,  once  very  popu- 
lar in  the  haying  fields,  made  from  Ginger,  mo- 
lasses and  water,  with  a  little  vinegar  added  to 
give  it  acidity. 

Condiments:  Substances  taken  with  food  to  sea- 
son or  improve  the  flavor,  or  to  render  it  more 
wholesome  or  digestable.  They  include  such  arti- 
cles of  general  consumption  as  Saft,  Vinegar, 
Spices,  etc.  A  majority  of  them  in  moderation, 
stimulate  both  appetite  and  digestion,  but  their 
excessive  use  tends  to  vitiate  the  gastric  juice 
and  injure  the  stomach. 

Poultry  Seasoning:  A  preparation  of  spices  and 
herbs  ready  mixed  for  use  in  stuffing  fouls.  It 
sells  easily  during  the  Fall  and  Winter  Hollidays. 


161 


SEEDS 

Corlnader  Seed:  The  fruit  of  a  small  plant 
growing  chiefly  in  the  South  of  Europe.  It  is 
used  as  a  culinary  flavor,  especially  for  curries,  in 
confectionery,  and  to  aromatise  spirituous  liquors. 

Dill:.  An  herb  of  the  parsley  family,  grown 
chiefly  for  its  aromatic,  pungent  seeds,  which  are 
employed  in  the  manufacture  of  sauces,  pickles, 
etc. 

Cardamon:  The  dark,  wrinkled,  triangular  seeds 
of  a  spice  plant  native  to  India.  They  possess  an 
aromatic  and  agreeably  pungent  flavor  and  are 
used  in  cooking,  especially  in  curries  and  soups, 
by  confectioners,  etc. 

Anise  Seed:  The  minute  seeds  of  an  annual 
plant,  cultivated  chiefly  in  Spain,  Egypt,  Syria  and 
other  Mediterranean  countries,  but  also  to  a  large 
extent  in  Germany,  principally  in  the  vicinity  of 
Erfurt.  It  is  used  as  a  condiment,  in  the  manu- 
facture of  liquors,  candy,  etc. 

Star  or  Chinese  Anise,  imported  mainly  from 
China,  is  in  flavor  similar  to  common  Anise,  but 
is  very  different  in  appearance,  being  star-shaped 
and  frequently  of  a  total  diameter  of  about  an 
inch. 

Caraway  Seed:  The  highly  aromatic  seeds  of 
a  plant  which  grows  wild  in  the  meadows  of  Hol- 
land, and  Northern  Germany,  and  is  cultivated  in 
many  other  countries,  including  the  United  States, 
especially  California. 

They  are  employed  in  a  variety  of  ways,  as  a 
culinary  flavor,  in  confectionery,  baking,  etc.,  and 
in  the  perfumery  and  soap-making  industries. 

The  roots  of  the  Caraway  plant  were  at  one 
time  eaten  as  a  vegetable,  and  the  young  and 
tender  leaves  still  occasionally  serve  for  flavoring 
soups,  etc. 

Hemp  Seed:  Commercially  is  best  known  as  a 
food  for  canaries  and  other  cage  birds.  The  plant 
is  an  annual,  of  the  nettle  family,  and  attains  an 

162 


average  height  of  from  four  to  eight  feet,  is  grown 
chiefly  in  India,  Russia,  Argentina,  and  the  United 
States. 

Rape  Seed:  Also  known  as  Cole  Seeds.  These 
are  used  for  bird  food,  both  straight  and  mixed 
with  other  seeds;  is  a  member  of  the  turnip 
family. 

Poppy  or  "iVIaw-Seed"  of  both  the  Black,  Blue 
and  White  Poppy,  is  retailed  to  some  extent  for 
use  on  or  in  bread,  generally  of  the  Vienna  shape 
and  rolls,  such  as  the  German  "Salt-Stangen." 
Analysis  show  about  50%  oil,  and  25%  protein 
and  pectins. 

It  is  also  sold  as  bird  food,  then  frequently 
styled  Maw-Seed,  and  is  considered  an  especially 
desirable  diet  when  birds  are  moulting. 

Rape  Seed  comes  from  the  Rape  plant,  a  mem- 
ber of  the  Turnip  family,  cultivated  in  both  Eu- 
rope and  Asia. 

Rape  Oil  is  obtained  from  the  Rape  Seed,  and 
is  used  chiefly  in  the  manufacture  of  soap. 

Millet:  Is  the  smallest  of  grains,  but  is  very 
abundant  in  product,  each  plant  having  a  number 
of  stalks  and  a  single  head,  sometimes  giving  two 
ounces  of  seed. 

Common  Millet,  the  variety  chiefly  cultivated  in 
this  country,  is  broadly  divided  into  brown  and 
yellow  grain.  The  former,  used  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  rice,  makes  good  puddings,  but  the  greater 
part  of  the  domestic  crop  of  all  types  is  used  as 
green  fodder,  although  there  is  large  quantities 
cured,  stacked  or  stored  and  fed  to  stock  as  hay. 

The  ripe  seeds  are  also  valuable  as  bird  and 
poultry  food. 

Imported  Millet,  in  Germany  and  Italy,  con- 
sumed in  large  quantities  in  soups  and  other  forms, 
is  of  smaller  grain  types  than  Common  Millet. 

The  yellow  Italian  is  used  here  to  some  extent 
for  puddings,  but  the  bulk  of  the  supply  Is  re- 
tailed as  food  for  cage  birds. 

Another    variety,    known    as    Guinea    Maize,    is 

163 


common  in  Peru,  furnishing  there  white  flour  of 
very  pleasing  flavor. 

Canary  Seed:  The  seed  of  the  Canary  Grass, 
native  to  the  Canary  islands,  but  long  ago  natural- 
ized in  many  temperate  climates.  Its  principal 
use  in  this  country  is  as  bird  food.  It  is  generally 
mixed  with  Rape  and  other  seed  to  cheapen  it, 
but  the  straight  Canary  seed  is  decidedly  prefer- 
able. 

It  should  be  kept  in  a  dry  place  and  away  from 
vermin. 

Industrially,  a  flour  made  from  Canary  seed  is 
employed  in  the  manufacture  of  fine  cotton  goods 
and  silk  stuffs,  and  in  the  Canary  Islands,  Italy 
and  North  Africa  is  used  as  food. 

SPICES,  HERB  AND  SEED  (ology) 

In  this  case  Cummin,  'Cumin,  Cuminas,  or  Comi- 
nos  is  the  "cause  of  it  all"  (particularly  at  this 
time). 

The  writer  has  seen  this  herb,  seed  or  spice 
listed  by  jobbers,  brok^s  and  druggists,  and 
spelled  variously,  as  above. 

This  is  an  "herb"  that  produces  a  "seed"  that  is 
classed  as  a  "spice."  It  is  of  the  Caraway  type. 
The  seeds  have  an  aromatic  odor  and  taste  which 
makes  it  popular  as  a  flavoring  for  soups,  pastry 
and  so  forth.  It  is,  and  always  has  been,  particu- 
larly popular  in  Europe  and  the  Far  East. 

It  is  used  quite  extensively  in  the  United  States, 
Its  greatest  use  perhaps  being  in  Curry  Powders. 

Curry  Powder,  or  Curry  Paste:  Is  a  condiment 
so  highly  seasoned  that  it  is  only  within  recent 
years  that  it  has  obtained  a  substantial  foothold 
in  temperate  climates,  though  it  has  been  used 
extensively  in  India  and  other  Eastern  countries 
for  many  generations. 

In  India  it  generally  consists  of  Black  Pepper, 
Cayenne  Pepper  and  a  variety  of  Spices — Cinna- 
mon, Nutmeg,  Cloves,  etc. — made  into  a  paste  or 
powder  with  Turmeric. 

Its  composition  varies  with  different  makers. 

lU 


That  sold  here  usually  contains  chiefly  Turmeric, 
Coriander  Seed,  Cayenne,  Black  Pepper,  Fenn- 
greek  Seed,  Ginger  and  Lime  juice.  It  is  handled 
in  jars,  bottles,  packages,  etc. 

The  word  "curry"  is  of  (Asiatic)  Indian  origin, 
and  originally  signified  there  a  "stew" — generally 
of  cliicken,  veal  or  lamb. 

The  "finishing"  or  seasoning  of  the  dish  used  to 
be  quite  frequently  performed  at  the  table  by  the 
host  or  some  other  member  of  the  party;  later, 
the  word  came  to  be  applied  more  particularly  to 
a  mixture  ot  Spices. 

In  India  and  Ceylon,  curry  sauces  are  added  to  a 
variety  of  dishes,  generally  a  few  minutes  before 
serving  or  before  the  completion  of  the  cooking. 
Vegetables  of  all  kinds,  in  addition  to  meats, 
poultry  and  fish,  are  so  treated.  Curry  is  best 
kept  in  a  bottle  or  jar  tightly  corked. 

Fenngreek:  Is  an  herb  which  resembles  clover. 
Its  seeds  (as  just  mentioned)  are  used  as  an  in- 
gredient of  Curry  Powder;  separately,  they  are 
strong,  bitter  and  of  unpleasant  flavor. 

Turmeric:  Is  the  yellow  root-stock  of  a  plant  of 
the  Ginger  family,  marketed  both  in  root  form  and 
as  a  powder.  It  is  the  principal  ingredient  in 
Curry  Powders,  and  is  also  used  for  mixing  with 
Mustard  and  other  spices.  Its  yellow  color,  after 
the  extraction  known  as  Curcuma  Oil  and  Cur- 
cummin,  is  employed  as  a  dye-stuff  in  chemistry, 
etc. 


HERBS 

Basil:  A  highly  aromatic  herb,  with  a  flavor 
resembling  cloves.  The  common  variety  is  sel- 
dom made  use  of,  but  there  is  a  large  type  whose 
leaves  are  employed  very  generally  in  flavoring 
sauces  and  soups,  especially  green  and  mock 
turtle  soup. 

Basil  Vinegar  is  made  by  steeping  the  leaves  in 
vinegar. 

165 


Bay  Leaves:  The  leaves  of  a  shrub  of  the 
Laurel  variety,  growing  wild  in  Greece,  Italy  and 
other  Mediterranean  countries  and  in  some  South- 
ern sections  of  the  United  States. 

Among  the  ancient  Greeks,  the  Bay  Leaf  was  in 
large  part  dedicated  to  heroism  and  poetry,  but 
modern  usage  consecrates  it  to  the  more  material 
pleasures  of  the  table.  The  principal  consumption 
is  of  the  dried  leaf,  used  as  flavoring  for  soups, 
etc. 

Myrtle:  A  small  evergreen  tree,  whose  sweet, 
pulpy  and  aromatic  black  berries  are  dried  for  use 
as  a  condiment,  in  addition  to  their  consumption 
fresh.  Both  leaves  and  wood  also  yield  an  oil 
used  in  the  manufacture  ot  perfumes. 

Bergamontf  (an  herb),  a  title  frequently  applied 
to  a  family  of  several  different  plants  used  for 
their  stimulating  and  aromatic  properties,  as 
"wild  Bergamont,"  "American  Horse  Mint,"  etc. 

Marjoram:  A  garden  hehb  of  the  Aster  family. 
There  are  numerous  varieties,  the  most  desirable 
being  the  Sweet  or  "Knotted,"  Winter  Sweet  and 
Pot.  Both  the  tops  and  leaves,  green  and  dried, 
are  used  to  flavor  soups,  dressing,  etc. 

For  drying,  the  branches  are  cut  before  the 
flowers  open,  marketed  in  leaf  and  powdered  form. 

Common  or  Wild  Marjoram  grows  wild  in  many 
parts  of  the  country  in  the  open  fields.  It  resem- 
bles the  cultivated!  types,  but  is  coarser  in  flavor. 

Oregano  or  Mexican  Marjoram:  Grows  wild  in 
Mexico  and  Central  America,  is  sometimes  culti- 
vated in  a  small  way  in  the  former  country.  The 
whole  or  powdered  leaves  of  this  plant  are  pleas- 
antly pungent,  slightly  aromatic,  and  of  rather 
agreeable  flavor.     Quite  coarse  in  appearance. 

Savory  or  Summer  Savory:  An  annual  herb  of 
the  Mint  family,  with  strong,  agreeable,  aromatic 
smell  and  flavor.  Its  leaves  are  in  common  use, 
both  fresh  and  dried,  for  flavoring  soups,  etc. 
Dried  Savory  being  retailed  both  loose  and  in  cans 
and  bottles. 

166 


The  blossoms  and  branches  are  also  sometimes 
similarly  employed. 

Thyme:  A  garden  herb  largely  cultivated  for 
its  fragrant  tops  and  leaves,  which  are  popular  as 
a  culinary  seasoning. 

The  best  variety  is  the  Lemon  Scented. 

Thyme  for  drying  should  be  cut  when  just  com- 
mencing to  blossom,  and  should  be  slowly  dried 
in  the  shade.  It  is  sold  in  cans  and  bottles,  or 
loose  in  small  bunches. 

Sage:  A  shrub  whose  tops  and  wrinkled,  whit- 
ish-green leaves  are  extensively  used,  both  fresh 
and  dried,  for  flavoring  soups,  sauces,  dressing, 
etc.,  because  of  its  characteristic  aromatic,  bitter 
and  slightly  astringent  flavor.  Dried  Sage  is  re- 
tailed in  packages,  cans  and  bottles. 

Sage  grows  wild  in  many  parts  of  Southern 
Europe  and  has  long  been  under  cultivation  in 
all  the  temperate  climates. 

'Hops:  The  Hop  plant  is  a  climber,  found  wild 
in  America,  Europe  and  Asia.  It  has  been  culti- 
vated in  Germany  since  the  Ninth  Century,  and  is 
now  also  an  important  crop  in  the  United  States, 
the  chief  producing  sections  being  New  York  and 
the  Pacific  Coast  States. 

It  is  famous  for  the  property  of  its  blossoms  in 
preserving  beer  from  bacterial  action,  while  also 
imparting  to  it  an  agreeably  bitter  taste,  and  it  is 
medicinally  valuable  as  a  sedative  and  narcotic, 
whether  taken  internally  or  applied  externally  in 
the  form  of  pillows,  fomentation,  etc. 

The  ancients  ate  the  young  Hop  shoots  as  we 
do  asparagus,  and  this  custom  is  still  prevalent 
in  parts  of  England   and   Germany. 

The  roots  of  the  vine  are  perennial,  the  top 
only  dying  in  the  winter.  The  vines,  which  twine 
with  the  sun,  from  right  to  left,  are  now  generally 
trained  on  dropwires  or  strings,  or  on  wire  trellis 
work,  the  old  style  poles  being  employed  in  com- 
paratively few  sections. 

The  blossoms  are  harvested  in  the  latter  part  of 

167 


August  and  the  beginning  of  September.  They  are 
cured  and  kiln-dried  and  then  baled. 

In  the  choice  of  Hops,  care  should  be  taken  to 
select  those  which  are  full  of  lupulin  (the  essen- 
tial principal),  free  from  mould,  and  bright  and 
silky  in  appearance,  that  are  the  most  powerfully 
odorous,  and  the  most  free  from  leaves,  stems, 
scaley  fragments  and  sticks,  and  which,  when 
rubbed  between  the  hands,  impart,  in  the  greatest 
degree,  a  yellowish  tint,  and  a  glutinous  feeling 
to  the  skin.  It  is  best  also  to  select  those  which 
are  tightly  packed,  as,  unless  they  are  very  firmly 
pressed  together  and  quite  solid,  they  soon  spoil  in 
keeping. 

Hoarhound,  or  Horehound:  A  bushy  plant  of 
the  Mint  family,  native  to  the  South  of  Europe  and 
Eastern  countries,  growing  about  a  foot  high  and 
with  round,  wrinkled,  almost  hairy  ("hoary") 
leaves,  which  contain  a  bitter  principle  and  vola- 
tile oil  of  aromatic,  but  not  very  agreeable,  smell. 

It  is  used  as  a  flavor  for  candy  and  also  in 
medicinal  syrups,  for  its  curative  properties  for 
coughs  and  other  affections. 

Garden  Balm,  Balm  Mint,  or  Lemon  Balm:  An 
aromatic  herb  of  the  Mint  family,  with,  generally, 
a  marked  Lemon  odor.  It  is  used  chiefly  for 
household  culinary  purposes  and  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  liquors  and  perfumes. 

Fennel,  Common  Garden  or  Sweet  Fennel:  Is  a 
plant  chiefly  cultivated  for  its  leaves,  which  are 
consumed  both  fresh,  for  garnishing,  as  a  salad, 
etc.,  and  cooked  as  a  vegetable ;  in  the  latter  case, 
generally  tied  in  bunches  and  boiled  with  fish  and 
certain  other  foods. 

It  is  very  popular  in  Italy,  especially  in  the  vicin- 
ity of  Naples. 

The  seeds  are  also  used  for  seasoning.  Possiby 
a  slight  reminder  of  Celery. 


168 


MINTS,  CRESS,  LAVENDER  AND   OTHER 
HERBS,   BERRIES,   ETC. 

Lavender:  A  perennial  plant  now  grown  princi- 
pally for  its  flowers,  which  are  used  in  making 
perfumes  or  for  sale  dried  for  ''sachet  bags,"  etc. 
It  was  formerly  very  popular  as  a  "pot-herb,"  and 
is  still  used  for  flavoring  jellies,  etc. 

Mint:  A  general  name  for  a  large  number  of 
perennial  plants,  the  best  known  of  which  are  the 
Peppermint,  Spearmint  and  Pennyroyal,  cultivated 
chiefly  for  the  essential  oil  which  contains  their 
aromatic  and  medicinal  principles. 

About  90%  of  the  supply  of  Peppermint  and 
Spearmint  oils  is  produced  and  distilled  in  an 
area  which  has  Kalamazoo,  Michigan,  for  its  cen- 
ter and  within  a  seventy-five  mile  radius  from 
that  city.  Their  chief  uses  are  in  medicine,  con- 
fectionery, chewing-gum,  liquors,  etc. 

Spearmint  leaves  are  also  used  for  mint  sauce 
and  other  culinary  purposes,  and  at  one  time  popu- 
lar, for  the  flavoring  of  beverage,  such  as  Mint 
Juiip. 

Pennyroyal  was  at  one  time  extensively  em- 
ployed medicinally,  but  it  is  now  grown  only  in 
comparatively  small  quantities,  and  is  used  almost 
exclusively  for  seasoning. 

Dried  Mint  is  retailed  in  packages,  bottles  and 
cans.    It  should  always  be  kept  in  a  dry  place. 

Catnip,  or  Catmint:  A  field  plant  growing  wild 
throughout  the  United  States.  The  leaves  and 
young  shoots,  aromatic,  pungent  and  more  or  less 
bitter,  are  used  for  seasoning  and  as  a  domestic 
remedy. 

The  leaves  are  best  while  the  plant  is  blooming. 
They  may  be  preserved  by  drying  a  few  days, 
being  afterward  kept  in  a  dry  place. 

Everyone  is  familiar  with  the  pleasure  a  cat 
finds  in  playing  with  Catnip,  and  Catnip  balls, 
containing  a  few  pieces,  are  an  article  of  regular 
sale. 

169 


Rosemary:  A  plant  or  shrub  of  the  Mint  family, 
native  to  the  South  of  Europe  and  Asia  Minor,, 
now  widely  cultivated.  Its  leaves,  greyish  in  color 
and  curled  at  the  edges,  are  very  fragrant  and 
slightly  stimulant.  They  are  employed  in  season- 
ing and  in  manufacture  of  preserves,  and  are  still 
used  to  a  limited  degree  in  liquors. 

Parsley:  A  favorite  kitchen  herb,  popular  for 
garnishing  and  flavoring,  for  the  latter  purpose 
being  sold  both  fresh  and  dried.  Common  Parsley 
is  said  to  be  native  to  Egypt,  but  is  now  thoroughly 
naturalized  both  here  and  in  several  European 
countries.  The  variety  chiefly  grown  is  the  curley- 
leafed  type.  The  finest  received  in  the  eastern 
markets  comes  from  Bermuda. 

In  addition  to  its  flavoring  qualities,  Parsley 
contains  an  essential  oil  which  is  mildly  stimu- 
lating. 

Tarragon:  A  small,  aromatic  herb  used  for 
flavoring  vinegar,  mustard,  pickles,  sauces,  salads, 
etc. 

It  is  sold  green  and  dried,  the  latter  both  loose 
and  in  cans  and  bottles.  A  half  pound  of  green 
Tarragon  will  flavor  fifty-four  gallons  of  Tarragon 
vinegar. 

Hyssop:  A  small,  bushy  herb  with  leaves  of  aro- 
matic and  stimulant  properties  which  grows  wild 
in  the  South  of  Europe.  The  tops  and  flowers  are 
used  in  making  "Hyssop  Tea." 

Juniper  Berries:  The  dark-blue,  pungent,  aro- 
matic berries  of  the  evergreen  Juniper  shrub,  com- 
mercially important  formerly  because  of  their  use 
in  flavoring  gin. 

A  nice  flavor  is  given  to  corned/  beef  by  adding 
a  muslin  bagful  of  crushed  Juniper  Berries  to  the 
brine. 

Hackberry  or  Sugarberry:  The  fruit  of  the  Net- 
tle Tree.  It  is  of  pleasing  sweetness  and  aromatic 
flavor,  and,  like  the  American  persimmon,  is  at  its 
best  after  it  has  been  touched  by  frost. 

Cress  or  Pepper  Grass:    Applicable  to  a  number 

170 


of  pungent,  flavored  plants  of  the  Mustard  family, 
used  as  a  condiment  for  garnishing  and  in  salads. 
The  leaves  of  the  common  variety  are  divided  and 
frequently  curled.  Those  of  the  broad-leaf  type  are 
slightly  nochted  on  the  edges. 

It  is  generally  sown  with  Mustard.  Rape  is 
frequently  used  instead  of  Mustard,  however,  many 
people  preferring  it,  the  flavor  being  less  pungent, 
the  leaves  are  stiffer  and  keep  fresh  longer. 

Water-Cress:  An  aquatic  plant  of  pungent, 
salty  and  rather  bitter  flavor,  which  is  especially 
popular  as  a  spring  salad.  It  grows  wild  in. many 
parts,  flourishing  best  in  running  water,  with  sandy 
bottoms. 

Water-Cress  offers  itself  as  a  pleasant  means  of 
providing  the  body  with  a  goo^  supply  of  natural 
salts.  It  is  more  generally  endowed  with  the 
natural  salts  in  addition  to  potash  and  acids. 

Angelica:  An  aromatic  plant,  native  to  the 
Alps,  which  grows  wild  in  Europe,  as  far  North 
as   Iceland  and  Lapland. 

The  natives  of  the  latter  country  use  the  fleshy 
roots  as  food  and  the  stalks  as  medicine.  Com- 
mercially, the  young  and  tender  leaf  stalks  and 
midribs  are  candied  for  sale  as  confectionery,  and 
the  roots  and  seeds  have  always  been  employed 
extensively  to  flavor  gin. 

Mugwort:  A  tall,  perennial  herb  with  woolly 
leaves^  formerly  popular,  dried  or  fresh,  as  a  sea- 
soning and  for  flavoring  beverages. 

Chervil:  A  highly  esteemed  garden  herb  grown 
in  all  temperate  climates,  and  very  popular  in  the 
South.  It  is  similar  to  Parsley,  the  curled  being 
even  handsomer. 

Chervil  Bilbur,  or  Turnip-Rooted  Chervil,  is  a 
French  variety  grown  for  its  roots,  which  resemble 
the  Parsnip  in  shape  and  color.  It  is  a  very  desir- 
able vegetable,  the  flesh  being  sweet  and  delicate 
in  flavor  and  almost  floury  in  texture. 


171 


DULSE  AND  OTHER  SEA  WEEDS 

Laver:  An  edible  seaweed  found  both  on  the 
Atlantic  and  Pacific  Coasts.  It  is  a  food  item  of 
importance  in  Asia^  and  in  some  parts  of  Europe. 

In  Scotland  and  Ireland,  under  the  name  of 
"Sloak"  or  '*Slook,"  it  is  boiled  and  served  with 
hutter,  pepper  and  vinegar,  etc.,  or  fried'  in  bacon 
fat  after  boiling.  It  is  especially  good  as  an  ac- 
companiment for  cold  meats. 

It  is  best  to  cook  it  in  a  porcelain  sauce-pan,  as 
it  is  liable  to  act  on  metals. 

Laver  is  rich  in  protein,  averaging  from  30%  to 
35%. 

Green  Sloke:  A  green-spored  seaweed  of  the 
same  type  as  Laver. 

Dulse:  An  edible  seaweed  growing  on  the 
coasts  of  Scotland,  Ireland  and  Japan.  It  also 
grows  abundantly  on  the  New  England  and  New- 
foundland coasts.  What  is  said  to  be  the  best 
Dulse  known  is  gathered  at  considerable  risk  and 
hazard  near  Hampton,  Nova  Scotia,  on  the  Bay  of 
Fundy,  found  principally  on  the  South  Shore  on  all 
rocky  reefs  from  Digby  Gut  to  Cape  Blomidon. 

It  is  found  at  the  extreme  low- water  mark,  fas- 
tened securely  to  the  rocks,  and  can  only  be  gath- 
ered at  a  duration  of  about  thirty  or  forty  minutes, 
or  during  extremely  low  tide. 

Many  lives  have  been  los.t  in  the  occupation  of 
gathering  Dulse  on  Fundy  Bay  by  inexperienced 
pickers,  gathering  in  the  Coves,  and  on  trying  to 
return  find  themselves  entirely  cut  off  by  water. 

The  plant  is  a  dark  reddish  brown,  tough  and 
leathery,  and  is  very  slippery  and  slimey  when 
gathered. 

After  gathering,  it  is  washed  thoroughly  in  salt 
water  and  hung  up  and  brushed  with  a  broom, 
and  then  layed  on  boards  in  the  sun  to  cure. 
Great  care  should  be  used  not  to  allow  rain  or  fog 
to  touch  the  crop  while  curing,  and  usually  takes 
about  ninety-six  hours  of  sun  to  properly  cure  it. 

172 


It  is  impossible  in  the  Nova  Scotia  climate  to  cure 
Dulse  only  in  the  Summer  months. 

The  demand  is  much  greater  than  the  supply, 
and  sells  on  the  Boston  market  at  from  50  cents 
tq  $1.00  per  pound. 

The  leaves  are  from  two  to  four  inches  wide, 
and  often  reach  a  length  of  twenty  feet  and  more. 

Dulse  is  eaten  dry  as  a  relish,  cooked  with  butter 
to  be  eaten  with  fish,  etc.,  or  boiled  in  milk  to  be 
served  as  a  vegetable. 

Carragheen,  Irish  Moss,  Pearl  Moss:  A  species 
of  edible  seaweed  named  after  the  town  of  Carra- 
gheen, near  Waterford,  Ireland,  found  on  the  Brit- 
ish Islands,  the  rocky  shores  of  continental  Eu' 
rope  and  the  Eastern  Shores  of  the  United  States 
and  Canada.  Similar  varieties  abound  also  on 
other  parts  of  the  American  coast. 

The  Carragheen  of  domestic  use  is  obtained 
principally  from  New  Hampshire  and  Massachu- 
setts, the  harvest  season  there  extending  from 
May  to  September. 

After  gathering,  the  plants  undergo  the  same 
treatment  and  prepojUation  given  Dulse,  being 
washed  in  salt  water,  brushed  and  cleaned  and 
spread  on  the  beach  or  boards  to  dry. 

As  marketed.  Carragheen  is  in  pieces  three  to 
four  inches  to  a  foot  long,  flexible  and  branching. 
Reddish-brown  to  pale  yellow  color,  almost  white. 

Kelp  or  Bladder  Weed:  An  edible  seaweed  dis- 
tinguished by  its  streamer-like  leaves,  found  on 
both  Northern  coasts.  The  largest  variety,  known 
as  Giant  Bladder  Weed,  has  leaves  which  average 
thirty  to  forty  feet  in  length,  used  in  soups,  for 
service  with  meals,  etc.,  and  boiled  as  a  vegetable. 


173 


HORSERADISH,  ALSO  PLANTS  OF  THE  ONION 
FAMILY 

Wasabi:  A  Japanese  plant  whose  root  is  grated 
for  use  like  American  Horseradish.  It  has  an 
agreebly  sharp  taste,  is  being  grown  to  a  limited 
extent  in  the  United)  States. 

Horseradish:  A  plant  allied  to  the  Nasturtium 
or  Cress  family,  naturalized  in  most  temperate 
countries.  It  is  grown  for  its  white,  fleshy,  pun- 
gent roots,  which  arq  generally  grated  and  mixed 
with  vinegar  for  use  as  a  relish  or  condiment  with 
meats,  oysters,  etc. 

When  grated,  should  be  kept  in  air-tight  jars 
or  bottles,  as  it  loses  its  strength  and  pungency 
rapidly;  always  keep  in  a  dark,  cool  place. 

The  roots  may  be  left  in  the  ground  all  Winter 
and  dug  as  needed.  After  digging,  they  may  be 
kept  fresh  for  a  considerable  time  by  covering  in 
cool  sand  or  light  soil. 

Chives,  or  Cives:  A  plant  of  the  Onion  family, 
cultivated  for  its  leaves,  which  grow  in  tufts  re- 
sembling grass  in  appearance,  but  hollow  like 
Onion  leaves.  It  is  a  good  substitute  for  Onions, 
especially  in  soups  and  stews. 

Garlic:  A  vegetable  similar  to  a  small  Onion, 
but  with  the  bulb  divided  into  ten  or  twelve  sec- 
tions known  as  "Cloves."  At  certain  seasons  it 
abounds  in  many  pastures,  and  imparts  a  very 
rank  flavor  to  the  milk  and  butter  of  cows  which 
feed  on  it.  Its  main  use  in  cookery  is  to  flavor 
soups  and  sauces,  and  in  salads,  pickles,  etc. 

(Leek:  A  form  of  Onion  cultiavted  for  the 
blanched  lower  parts  of  the  leaves,  commonly 
called  the  "stem,"  and  the  bulbulous  roots,  both 
of  which  are  used  in  cookery,  chiefly  in  soups  and 
stews.  In  flavor  they  resemble  a  very  mild  ordi- 
nary onion. 

Clbol  or  Welsh  Onion:  A  member  of  the  Onion 
family,  which  is  grown  principally  for  its  leaves; 
of  mild  onion  flavor,  used  for  seasoning,  etc. 

174 


Shallot  or  Seal  lion:  A  spice  vegetable  of  the 
Onion  tribe,  of  stronger  but  more  mellow  flavor 
than  the  common  Onion;  used  for  flavoring,  sauces, 
stews,  etc. 

The  true  Shallot  ranges  in  size  from  a  walnut  to 
a  small  fig,  is  inclined  to  pear-shape,  and  has  a 
thick  outer  skin  shading  from  reddish  to  gray,  the 
bulb  underneath  being  greenish  at  the  base  and 
violet  on  the  upper  portion.  It  grows  in  ''Clove" 
form,  several  cloves  attached  to  a  common  disc. 

New  Shallots  come  on  the  market  in  June,  but 
the  dried  is  most  popular  and  may  be  kept  all 
year.    The  young  leaves  are  used  for  seasoning. 


i'/b 


COUMARIN 
The  Flavoring  Principal  of  the  Tonka  Bean 

Tonka,  or  Tonqua  Bean:  The  dark,  aromatic 
seed  of  the  fruit  of  Coumarouna-Odorato,  a  South 
American  tree. 

The  essential  principal,  known  as  Coumarin,  is 
a  white  substance  found  in  small  white  crystals, 
under  the  coat  and  between  the  lobes.  Because 
of  its  similarity  in  aroma,  Tonka  Beans,  or  the 
extracted  Coumarin,  are  frequently  employed  in 
the  manufacture  of  imitation  Vanilla  Extract,  and 
while  they  are  heavier  and  somewhat  coarser  in 
flavor,  and  their  commercial  value  not  nearly  so 
great  as  even  the  commoner  Vanilla  Bean,  they, 
however,  properly  handled,  make  a  most  wonder- 
ful substitute  or  imitation,  in  fact,  the  average 
layman  could  not  distinguish  the  true  from  the 
imitation. 

They  are  also  used  extensively  for  perfuming 
and  flavoring  smoking  and  chewing  tobacco. 

They;  are  also  placed  in  wardrobes  and  trunks. 
They  impart  a  pleasing  odor  and  preserve  cloths 
from  moths. 

Coumarin  is  also  found  in  Woodruff,  Sweet 
Cloves  and  several  other  plants,  and  is  manufac- 
tured synthetically  in  considerable  quantities. 

Lemon  Oil:  For  many  years  almost  the  entire 
supply  of  the  Oil  of  the  Lemon  rind  was  produced 
in  Sicily,  and  is  still  obtained  largely  by  hand 
processes,  the  small  factory  output,  which  is  dark- 
er in  appearance,  being  principally  employed  to 
heighten  the  color  of  the  hand-made  oil. 

The  two  most  widely  used  methods  are  known 
as  the  **two-piece  sponge"  and  the  "three-piece 
sponge,"  the  distinction  referring  to  the  number 
of  pieces  into  which  the  rind  is  cut. 

The  former  method  generally  produces  oil  with 
the  smallest  percentage  of  water  to  be  afterwards 
separated,  but  that  from  the  latter  method  is  said 
to  filter  more  rapidly  and  keep  clean  longer. 

For  the  three-piece  method,  the  lemons  are  cut 

176 


lengthwise  into  three  slices  (the  pulp  is  first  re- 
moved), the  juice  to  be  expressed  and  sold  to  the 
manufacturers  of  Citric  Acid,  and  the  residue  to 
be  used  as  animal  food,  and  then  the  peel  is  put 
into  large  baskets  and  stored  in  a  cool  place  for 
some  hours  until  it  is  considered  in  the  proper 
condition  for  pressing. 

Each  workman  engaged  in  extracting  the  oil 
has  in  front  of  him  a  tin-lined  copper  bowl,  and 
hojds  in  his  left  hand  a  medium-sized  sponge  of 
superfine  quality,  which  has  previously  been  very 
carefully  washed.  He  also  holds  other  small 
sponges  between  the  fingers  of  the  same  hand  to 
prevent  the  loss  of  any  of  the  oil,  which  is  very 
volatile.  With  the  right  hand  he  takes  a  piece  of 
the  peel  from  the  basket  and  squeezes  it  against 
the  sponge,  thus  forcing  the  oil  through  the  pores 
of  the  rind  into  the  sponge.  When  the  sponge  is 
full  of  essence,  it  is  squeezed  into  the  bowl. 

In  order  to  make  sure  that  the  peel  has  yielded 
all  the  essence  that  can  be  pressed  out  by  hand, 
the  overseer  from  time  to  time  tests  the  rejected 
peel  by  squeezing  it  close  to  a  flame.  If  there  is 
any  essence  left,  it  is  forced  through  the  flame 
and  produces  a  flash  of  light.  (Children  often  try 
the  same  experiment  with  orange  peels.)  The 
used  peel  is  put  into  brine  and  sold  to  manufac- 
turers of  "Candied  Lemon  Peel." 

When  the  bowls  are  full  they  are  set  aside  for 
a  short  time,  to  permit  the  impurities  to  settle 
and  then  the  contents  are  carefully  decanted,  the 
clear  essence  going  into  large  tin-lined  copper 
vessels.  Before  shipment,  the  product  is  passed 
through  filter  paper  to  purify  it  and  give  it  lim- 
pidity, and  is  finally  transferred  to  copper  bottles 
of  various   standard  sizes. 

The  quantity  and  quality  of  essence  yielded 
varies  according  to  the  season.  During  November, 
December  and  January,  when  the  greater  part  of 
the  supply  is  manufactured,  one  thousand  lemons 
will  give  about  one  and  a  halfpounds  of  essence. 

177 


Lemons  not  fully  ripe  are  preferred,  as  they 
yield  a  larger  quantity  and  a  more  fragrant  quality 
than  those  fully  matured.  A  small  amount  of 
essence  is  made  during  the  spring  and  summer, 
but  the  product  lacks  the  delicate  fragrance  of 
that  made  in  the  winter. 

'California,  within  the  last  few  years,  has  de- 
veloped into  a  great  producer  of  high-grade  Lemon 
Ojl  of  excellent  quality  and  considerable  quantity. 
The  methods  employed  are  more  modern  than  the 
forejgoing.  Machinery  enters  laijrgely,  into  the 
manufacture  and  has  aided  materially  in  giving 
us  a  good  quality  of  Lemon  Oil  at  a  much  lower 
price  than  we  were  formerly  compelled  to  pay. 

Vanillin  or  Vanilline:  Unofficial  Vanillas  are 
those  which,  coming  from  the  ofiicial  plant,  do 
not  yet  correspond  with  the  ofiicial  description, 
and  also  have  some  derived  from  other  species. 

To  the  former  class  belong  the  Splits  and  Cuts 
(often  referred  to  in  articles  on  the  original)  as 
well  as  several  dark-skinned  varieties,  apparently 
from  wild  plants,  called  in  the  native  Cimmarona, 
Mestiza,  Puerca,  etc. 

To  the  latter  class  belong  the  Pompona,  derived 
from  Pompona  Scheide,  wild  and  uncultivated  in 
the  same  region  as  the  other,  and  believed  by 
the  natives  to  be  the  ancestor  of  P I  an  if  o  Ma,  they 
regarding  the  latter  as  a  cultivation  derived  from 
one  or  more  uncultivated  species. 

The  pods  of  both  are  short,  thick,  rough  and 
tough,  and  the  odor  rankly  fruity,  or  pruney,  in 
the  latter  respect  quite  resembling  the  Tahiti 
variety. 

Vanillin  has  been  reported  in  the  flowers  of 
several  Orchidaceoe.  It  has  also  been  reported 
in  the  fruits  of  one  or  more  plants  of  the  same 
family. 

For  commercial  purposes,  Vanillin  is  manufac- 
tured on  a  large  scale,  both  in  this  country  and 
abroad. 

178 


FIGURING   YOUR    PROFITS 

Ask  the  man  you  meet  casually  on  the  street 
tomorrow  if  20%  added  to  cost  does  not  yield  20% 
profit.  Ten  to  one,  he  will  say  "Yes."  But  it 
doesn't.  Profit  is  rightly  figured  only  on  sales, 
says    all   commercial   authorities. 

To  gain  20%  you  must  add  25%  to  cost.  The 
following  schedule  is  worth  copying  and  pasting  up 
somewhere  within  easy  sight  and  reach  of  the 
place  where  you  work  longest  and  hardest.  It  is 
absolutely  accurate,  and  it  will  save  you  many  a 
needless  calculation: 

Pet.  Added  Pet.  Profit  on 

to  Cost.  Selling  Price. 

5  is    4% 

TVa  is    7 

10  is    9 

12y2  is    11% 

15  is    , 13 

16  Is    UV4, 

IIV2  is 15 

20  is 16  2/3 

25  is  20 

30  is  23 

331/3  is 25 

35  is  26 

371/0  is 27^ 

40  is 281/^ 

45  is  31 

50  Is  331/3 

55  is  35y2 

60  is 371/2 

65  is  39y2 

66  2/3  is    40 

70  is    ....41 

75  is    42  2/3 

80  is 441/2 

85  is    46 

90  is    47% 

100  is    50 

179 


TEA:     The  aristocratic  household  beverage  for 
centuries. 


COFFEE:  The  most  democratic  of  drinks.  It 
appeals  alike  to  rich  and  poor — to  men  and 
women.  No  home  so  humble  it  cannot  afford 
■Coffee.  No  mansion  so  grand  it  can  dispense  with 
it.    Everybody  drinks  Coffee. 


SPICE:     The  world's  appetizer  for  Ages. 


18U 


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